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Moofs

Noob questions I can't seem to get a straight answer for.

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So I'm still new to car audio and dont know all the terms or how everything works. There are two things I'm still not sure about.

1) When you set amp gains, are you actually changing the amount of power coming from the amp? As in, if I have a 1000rms amp, by setting the gains lower can I actually just put out 500rms to the sub? I've heard mixed responses, but that you are always putting out what ever the amp is rated at. Because if this is the case, can't you run like a 2000 watt amp on stock electrical, but then just dial it back to like 800 rms or so?

2) What does "full tilt mean"? Is that just volume all the way up (before clipping I'm guessing)

Thanks!

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Lol, gains are tricky. Ish.... If you don't have the right equipment, "o-scope and test tones" you'll only be getting clipped signals. Plain and simple "gains are Not Volume controls and should be set PROPERLY" . FILL TILT is just another term for cranked up, loud as fuck. At the systems full potential, again see the gains comment. Clipped signals at full tilt = blown subs. Does that answer yer questions?

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Gain is used to match the voltage output of your head unit. A good head unit will have an output of 4volts or even higher (at max volume), most of the entry level ones will be at 2volts. So lets say you have a 2v output on your head unit and your amp has input ranging up to 6volts (gain would be all the way down), so it would take 6 volts to have that amp at full power (if the gain is turned all the way down). Then, if you turned up the volume all the way on your 2v head unit, it would only push the amp to 1/3 of its potential.

I'm sure someone else can explain it better.

Edited by 40oz

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A very basic answer is yes you can run a 2000 watt amp and only see 500 watts. Think of it this way when you have your volume low on your hu it is quieter than when you have it high. Why because your headunits output voltage is lower thus getting less output from your amp.

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Lowering your gain from where it matches your headunits output voltage will result in less power. Also you can consider wiring your speakers to a higher impedance if possible.

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Good to know. Heres my issue. I bought a Skar SK800.1 amp which is said to put out 570rms at 2ohms. Though on Skar's youtube channel they clamp tested it and got 725rms at 2ohms. I'd be running that plus a 2 channel that does 100rms x 2at 4ohms. Thats technically 925 watts. My concern is weather or not my stock electrical can take this.

The sub I have is a sundown SA-12. I was almost considering selling it and getting a single 4ohm Dcon instead so I'd be on the safer side with less power.

I'm just concern I'll be clipping and having insane voltage drop when ever I play at full tilt (see, thanks to you guys I now know what that means lol)

I was gonna do the big 3 and thats about it. I dont have the money to get a HO alt or a ton of batteries.

BTW: the HU I have has 2V pre amp outs

Edited by Moofs

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The only way to see if it is going to strain your electrical is to try it out yourself. But by backing down the gain, your amplifier will draw less current and thus it will require less electricity from your car's charging system.

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What do you drive what impedance sub do you have?

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What do you drive

x2. I would say that almost all modern cars could provide enough power to support those amplifiers with minimal upgrades (big 3)

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the sundown is a dual 4 ohm so I'll run it at 2ohms.

The car right now is a nissan maxima with 100amp alt but I may be getting something else come summer. So if the car is smaller and somewhere around like an 80amp alternator I think I just might swap subs for a Dcon to be on the safe side and run the amp at 4ohms.

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the sundown is a dual 4 ohm so I'll run it at 2ohms.

The car right now is a nissan maxima with 100amp alt but I may be getting something else come summer. So if the car is smaller and somewhere around like an 80amp alternator I think I just might swap subs for a Dcon to be on the safe side and run the amp at 4ohms.

You can't wire one D4 sub to four ohms.

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the sundown is a dual 4 ohm so I'll run it at 2ohms.

The car right now is a nissan maxima with 100amp alt but I may be getting something else come summer. So if the car is smaller and somewhere around like an 80amp alternator I think I just might swap subs for a Dcon to be on the safe side and run the amp at 4ohms.

You can't wire one D4 sub to four ohms.

sorry I meant I have a dual 4 VC SA-12. So I'd run that at 2ohms now. But if the car I get is even smaller than what I have now. I'd get a Single 4ohm VC Dcon and run the amp at 4ohms and get the 400 watts it will roughly put out. (instead of the 725 it does at 2ohms)

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You can also run a a dvc 4 ohm sub at 8 ohms which would make your amp do less power. Do you have any equipment yet?

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You can also run a a dvc 4 ohm sub at 8 ohms which would make your amp do less power. Do you have any equipment yet?

I have:

All the wiring

Skar 800.1D amp

Sundown SA-12 D4

Alpine CDE 9881 HU

Alpine MRV 2 channel

I just need to buy some components. Probably the incriminator audio set. Then aside from that decide what to do with the sub.

I put the Sundown on craigslist to see what I could get for it but so far people just ask to trade for like MTX subs or what ever.

Edited by Moofs

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You can also run a a dvc 4 ohm sub at 8 ohms which would make your amp do less power. Do you have any equipment yet?

I have:

All the wiring

Skar 800.1D amp

Sundown SA-12 D4

Alpine CDE 9881 HU

Alpine 2 MRV 2 channel

I just need to buy some components. Probably the incriminator audio set. Then aside from that decide what to do with the sub.

Wire it to 2 ohms. If you have a bad voltage drop rewire it to 8 ohms. Most cars can deal with 1000 RMS.

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Will do! I'm gonna try to get a voltage meter too.

I'm not a fan of adding a 2nd battery but I might try to upgrade the front with something nice. Maybe like a batcap 3000.

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Will do! I'm gonna try to get a voltage meter too.

I'm not a fan of adding a 2nd battery but I might try to upgrade the front with something nice. Maybe like a batcap 3000.

Install it and see where you are at. That is the best advice that I can give you.

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Will do! I'm gonna try to get a voltage meter too.

I'm not a fan of adding a 2nd battery but I might try to upgrade the front with something nice. Maybe like a batcap 3000.

Install it and see where you are at. That is the best advice that I can give you.

This really is the only way, if you turn it up and the voltage drops, just turn it back down to where your voltage is safe until you can do the "big 3" or other electrical upgrades to address the issue.

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Keep your Sundown sub, OP.

You should be good to go with what you have.

1000 w rms : nothing too much for a car. (I'm not a mechanic, though)

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So do you mean, install it and set the gains. Then if I have voltage drop back off on the gains until my voltage is stable?

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So do you mean, install it and set the gains. Then if I have voltage drop back off on the gains until my voltage is stable?

Yes. But make sure that your starting point is set correctly.

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Good to know. Heres my issue. I bought a Skar SK800.1 amp which is said to put out 570rms at 2ohms. Though on Skar's youtube channel they clamp tested it and got 725rms at 2ohms.

Clamp test is useless. Ignore it.

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Clamp test is useless. Ignore it.

How come? Just wondering.

I feel weird for actually wanting my amp to only do rated but for it to do 200rms over seems weird for that kind of power.

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because clamped test do not consider how much distortion is in the signal.

It is a LOT.

And also, you will never get rated power from your amp when wired to it's lowest stable load rating..

I just made it more complicated for ya, :)

Point is do not worry about power output, just worry about the effects of the power you are using.

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