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HawkEye

Is My Port To Close To My Rear Hatch?

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Hey all.I was wondering if my port is to close to my rear hatch.My friends and I both seem to think my system should be louder and I seem to think that it might be my port being to close to my rear hatch and not having enough room to breathe.My system consists of a DC 5k and 4 10" DC lvl 3 m2 subs with the level 4 upgrades.My enclosure was made by DC Creations and is 4.5 cubes after displacments (I believe) and tuned to 33hz.Here is a pic of what im talking about with the port.I can take a better pic if need be.So what im wondering is if I flip the box around with the port facing into the cabin instead of towards the hatch,would it help out any or would a enclosure with subs up and port up be better?Let me know what you guys think.Thanks

2012-03-14_10-05-26_792.jpg

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IIRC you need to take the width of the port and divide that by two to get how far away from anything you want the port to be. You look like you're far enough away. Feed free to play around with different locations to see if you get different results. Can't hurt.

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I would play around with positioning of the current box to try and find your sweet spot. Also make sure you don't have the woofers wired out of phase. That can cause undesireable results.

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I would play around with positioning of the current box to try and find your sweet spot. Also make sure you don't have the woofers wired out of phase. That can cause undesireable results.

Here is a noob question but how do I tell if they are wired out of phase?

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Odds are if you flip the port around you will have issues with the loading and you won't like it, but it never hurts to try.

I'm not sure who designed that enclosure, but personally I would have liked to have seen a little more space there, but with what you have it really shouldn't be an issue.

I would double check the wiring on your subs to make sure the coils are wired correctly so that there is not a phasing issue there. I'm not sure if we pre-wired that one for you or not, been a while on that one. If we did the letter writing should all be negative if I personally wired it.

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I would play around with positioning of the current box to try and find your sweet spot. Also make sure you don't have the woofers wired out of phase. That can cause undesireable results.

Here is a noob question but how do I tell if they are wired out of phase?

Grab a DMM if you have one and check it out, that is the best fastest way.

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I would play around with positioning of the current box to try and find your sweet spot. Also make sure you don't have the woofers wired out of phase. That can cause undesireable results.

Here is a noob question but how do I tell if they are wired out of phase?

Grab a DMM if you have one and check it out, that is the best fastest way.

Ok.So if the DMM reads 1ohm im good or how do I tell if its out of phase with a DMM?

Sorry for all the noob questions also

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Set your DMM to the read ohms then touch the leads together and that will tell you what the internal resistance is of the meter itself. Then touch the terminal and see what the overall reading is. Subtract the internal resistance from that reading and that is what you are wired to.

Another issue could be rise. If you are getting a large amount of impedance rise you could be just low on power and not as loud as you think you should be.

Of course the golden issue with these setups are, you had higher expectations then what those 10s can provide in that enclosure lol. It should still be very loud though no matter what with that power and cone area.

Perhaps it could be in your settings as well.

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To check phasing you need a 9v battery. Touch the woofer leads to the battery (+ to + and - to -) and if both cones move in the same direction they are both in phase. If they are out of phase one will move out and the other in.

You can also reverse the polarity of the wires going from the amp to the box, basically reversing the polarity of the sub, to see how it sounds :)

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To check phasing you need a 9v battery. Touch the woofer leads to the battery (+ to + and - to -) and if both cones move in the same direction they are both in phase. If they are out of phase one will move out and the other in.

You can also reverse the polarity of the wires going from the amp to the box, basically reversing the polarity of the sub, to see how it sounds smile.png

This would have been the next step i would have suggested after finding out the wiring configuration lol. You can do them in any order and both will tell you what you need to know overall about the wiring.

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Ok i just check it with a DMM and at first it read 2.2 ohms but it was moving up and down alot and I noticed that i didnt have the probes from the dmm tight enough in the terminals.So i tried it again and it read 1.5ohms and didnt move from there.So i must have it wired wrong then or what?Here are pics to show the readings.I dont have a 9v battery so im going to go buy one and do the other test.

2012-03-14_11-51-54_906.jpg2012-03-14_11-50-14_330.jpg

Edited by HawkEye

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1.5 will be about right. I would think your meter will have an internal resistance of .5-.7 so that is just fine. Time to check for phase issues.

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Ok.As far as I can tell all the subs are moving the same direction,but one seems to be moving more the the other ones when i apply the battery to it.I dunno im lost.Should I reverse the polarity and see how it does?To do that all I do is hook the - to + and + to - on from the box terminal to the amp right?Like Adrian suggested?

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When you apply +2+ and -2- the speakers should move out if they move in then you have the polarities switch and they are playing out of phase switch them around on your amp and it should be fine

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