08 Ford Edge. First build log.

[wannabang 13]

35 % ? You will not like it. It's really not dark enough.

I would put 35 % on my mother's car to protect her, because she hates dark tinted cars but needs tint (as her Dr said).

With an audio system you may need at least 20 %, and no titanium tint : after 2 or 3 years in the sun it becomes a lot less dark when the "titanium effect" goes away.

Yeah... I was thinkin' 35% would be too light... I just had hoped to get it done before college. Know anything about Ziebart? They use their own tint, and have a 26% film?

[Notorious97200 339]

Ziebart ? It's a name I saw on some glass on cars, when I was young !!!!

But I don't know for their tint !

For my own car, I don't want anything above 15%.

20 is still light. But I live in a sunny island in the Caribbeans. I don't know if you have so much sun ;-) where you live.

And my car is never parked in a garage, but under the sun all day long. So the tint gets lighter faster.

I need to re do it on my car after 4 years. It's still good, but not enough !

[wannabang 13]

Cops where I'm going to school are picky when it comes to tint, but my car will be parked outside and quite a distance from my dorm, so I was looking for something that wouldn't draw too much attention from cops, but still have the benefits. Since the factory tint is 20%, it makes sense to just add 20% on the front.

The one shop that said I couldn't get in until the end of the month also sells a clear tint that offers UV protection and heat reduction, so I may add that to the back if I find some extra funds.

As for now, I have some of the pieces for the box cut out, and might get to assembling some, tonight. The pouring rain sucks.

[KyleBrown 121]

really nice build so far!

20% ftw

[wannabang 13]

really nice build so far!

20% ftw

Thanks, man!

So, everyone, tell me what you think of this idea I had, today, while cutting the pieces. I had half a sheet of sandply leftover, and, after some math, found out that I could cut the rest of the box without using the second sheet of MDF if I did the 2nd baffle out of plywood. Save's me $33 (poor, college kid... especially after buying the car). So, we have some leftover stain from our hardwood floor, and I thought it would be cool to rattle can the box to match the tan interior, and stain the plywood baffle. Thought it'd be really different and look really nice.

I'm just concerned about the strength of the wood after staining the baffle...

[wannabang 13]

My progress on the box:

^^Those are the boxes that go under the floor, if you recall the SketchUp model.

I threw them in to see how they'd fit and line up with the board that goes along the back for support. ...got some more measuring to do, but it fits. The spare can still squeeze out.

..note to self.. When drilling pilot holes, especially from underneath the project, never put more than half the projects weight off the edge of the table.

...the result of the drop:

...and a nice-sized bruise on my ankle...

And I began the box:

Not bad for two hours. Now for a great dinner downtown with the girl. More to come, y'all, stay tuned.

[wannabang 13]

Relatively productive day, today! Lots of pictures taken!

Got all those after-thought measurements done, worked around the obnoxious metal pieces around the spare tire, and this is what I got!

The corners nearest the plastic were rounded to prevent scratching, but they aren't in contact with the plastic, and the spare has room to be wiggled out!

Got all the pieces for the floor ready to be attached and now I just need to get the hinges and carpet in order to finish the floor. I'll be installing some wood pieces around the spare in the open areas to serve as a brace for any load I put on the center piece.

Then I got to the box. Didn't make it too far, but got the one of the port walls in and painted. I'm going to go with chrome, since there's no black on the car, and the box will be tan with a stained baffle, so I didn't think blue (to match the outside) would look too well. I've got a couple chrome-like pieces inside the car and the grill compliments it, so i thought it'd be kinda cool.

First coat:

Tomorrow I get my wisdom teeth taken out, so it will definitely be a day off for me. More progress on Tuesday. Hopefully I'll be done by next Monday. I'll be wiring the car as soon as I get that floor done.

[Sencheezy 689]

[dbsupra 69]

Nice progress!

For future try and tape up any edges you intend to glue. I learned that the hard way. I can't tell if you have all of it taped or not so be sure you sand it down before gluing.

Good luck tomorrow. Wisdom teeth suck.

[wannabang 13]

Nice progress!

For future try and tape up any edges you intend to glue. I learned that the hard way. I can't tell if you have all of it taped or not so be sure you sand it down before gluing.

Good luck tomorrow. Wisdom teeth suck.

Quick check up on the thread before I leave. Tape up the edges before gluing?? Never done so... What's the purpose behind that?

The tape you see was there to prevent the paint from hitting anything other than the port.

[wannabang 13]

Question for everyone. When installing my second battery, do I need a fuse at the starting bat, at the rear bat from starting bat, and from the rear bat to the amp? 3 total fuses? And should I make them all 150 amps if that's what my amp draws? Knu has their Konfused model (KNI-11), and I was planning on getting two of those if I need three, since I already have one of the cheaper ones. Which location could I get away with putting the non "high-current" fuse at?

[dbsupra 69]

Nice progress!

For future try and tape up any edges you intend to glue. I learned that the hard way. I can't tell if you have all of it taped or not so be sure you sand it down before gluing.

Good luck tomorrow. Wisdom teeth suck.

Quick check up on the thread before I leave. Tape up the edges before gluing?? Never done so... What's the purpose behind that?

The tape you see was there to prevent the paint from hitting anything other than the port.

It doesnt bond as well. I'm not sure if its because the paint prevents the glue from soaking into the wood or if its because the glue just won't bond to the paint due to composition. Kinda like oil and water.

[wannabang 13]

Nice progress!

For future try and tape up any edges you intend to glue. I learned that the hard way. I can't tell if you have all of it taped or not so be sure you sand it down before gluing.

Good luck tomorrow. Wisdom teeth suck.

Quick check up on the thread before I leave. Tape up the edges before gluing?? Never done so... What's the purpose behind that?

The tape you see was there to prevent the paint from hitting anything other than the port.

It doesnt bond as well. I'm not sure if its because the paint prevents the glue from soaking into the wood or if its because the glue just won't bond to the paint due to composition. Kinda like oil and water.

Ahhhh, I see. You're saying if I'm painting prior to gluing tape up the edges I will glue. I did, sir, except for the 45s' area in the port, but I'll be sanding that away and putting the 45s in before I get this second coat on, so it should be fine.

[Austin863 87]

You put it as close to the battery as you can lol

Box design looks good! I wouldn't be so concerned about port/cube as much as port area itself.

Can i ask why you put it as close as you can to the battery? like what does that do for you having it that close to the battery? Edited August 14, 2012 by Austin863

[dbsupra 69]

You put it as close to the battery as you can lol

Box design looks good! I wouldn't be so concerned about port/cube as much as port area itself.

Can i ask why you put it as close as you can to the battery? like what does that do for you having it that close to the battery?

If you put the fuse 3 foot down line from the battery, the 3 feet from the battery to the fuse is unprotected. If you put it close to the battery, it minimizes the amount of wire unprotected.

Example you ask?

I was young and didn't know any better. I found a perfect spot to mount my inline fuse holder on the firewall. Well, the wire going down the fender melted and dead shorted to the body and smoked the wire. Luckily it didn't blow up the battery.

I think most MFG's I've seen spec it to be within 18" of the battery. I just shoot for as close to the battery as I can get.

[wannabang 13]

Got another coat of chrome on after sanding with 150, 220, and 300 grits. Tomorrow, I'll being doing another 300 grit sand-down and coats until it shines, then a clear coat. I got the power cable ran today, got about 5 feet left over! I ran it under the car so tomorrow I'll just be tying it up. I still need to run the RCAs and remote wire, but the trim panels are being tough. Got the hinges, too, so after those go on, the floor should be pretty quick to complete. Then carpet. Thursday, I'll be tinting the fronts 20% with Llumar, and if I don't need the pain killers that day, I'll be able to work a good 5 hours on the project. Monday's looking like a realistic goal if everything is here by the weekend (minus the carpet)! I have a feeling I waited a tad long to order the sub... More pics tomorrow!

[Austin863 87]

You put it as close to the battery as you can lol

Box design looks good! I wouldn't be so concerned about port/cube as much as port area itself.

Can i ask why you put it as close as you can to the battery? like what does that do for you having it that close to the battery?

If you put the fuse 3 foot down line from the battery, the 3 feet from the battery to the fuse is unprotected. If you put it close to the battery, it minimizes the amount of wire unprotected.

Example you ask?

I was young and didn't know any better. I found a perfect spot to mount my inline fuse holder on the firewall. Well, the wire going down the fender melted and dead shorted to the body and smoked the wire. Luckily it didn't blow up the battery.

I think most MFG's I've seen spec it to be within 18" of the battery. I just shoot for as close to the battery as I can get.

okay i was just curious because i have mine the whole way up by my amp. but i dont have it any where it can get hot and melt. so thats good. it was a more convient spot that we found plus the wire im running isnt very flexible

[wannabang 13]

You put it as close to the battery as you can lol

Box design looks good! I wouldn't be so concerned about port/cube as much as port area itself.

Can i ask why you put it as close as you can to the battery? like what does that do for you having it that close to the battery?

If you put the fuse 3 foot down line from the battery, the 3 feet from the battery to the fuse is unprotected. If you put it close to the battery, it minimizes the amount of wire unprotected.

Example you ask?

I was young and didn't know any better. I found a perfect spot to mount my inline fuse holder on the firewall. Well, the wire going down the fender melted and dead shorted to the body and smoked the wire. Luckily it didn't blow up the battery.

I think most MFG's I've seen spec it to be within 18" of the battery. I just shoot for as close to the battery as I can get.

okay i was just curious because i have mine the whole way up by my amp. but i dont have it any where it can get hot and melt. so thats good. it was a more convient spot that we found plus the wire im running isnt very flexible

Meh... his wire didn't melt because it got hot... well, I guess it did, but it wasn't just temperature. If I can't find a convenient spot with 12 inches of the battery, I just let it float there. I'll be getting two more fuses, one for the front battery, one at the back battery to the front, and another on the back battery to the amp. Unless someone thinks that's overkill.

[dbsupra 69]

Why stop there! Keep sanding and it will look like a mirror! lol

I know I keep making suggestions, and I don't want to sound like a knowitall. Just been there done that.

For the clear coat, see if you can get some DuPont ChromaClear I think it's called. Really nice stuff. It lays even and very tough. That you can only spray with a gun so that may be more than you want to get into.

As far as rattle cans, never had good luck with much except I think rustoleum was decent. Duplicolor yellowed pretty bad with heat.

Lastly, what kind of paint is the chrome to begin with? Typically enamel based paint doesn't clear very well. I think the clear creates a chemical reaction or something. Can't remember for sure. Not a full out paint guy haha. Might want to try it first on a test piece. Again, ask me how I know...

[wannabang 13]

Why stop there! Keep sanding and it will look like a mirror! lol

I know I keep making suggestions, and I don't want to sound like a knowitall. Just been there done that.

For the clear coat, see if you can get some DuPont ChromaClear I think it's called. Really nice stuff. It lays even and very tough. That you can only spray with a gun so that may be more than you want to get into.

As far as rattle cans, never had good luck with much except I think rustoleum was decent. Duplicolor yellowed pretty bad with heat.

Lastly, what kind of paint is the chrome to begin with? Typically enamel based paint doesn't clear very well. I think the clear creates a chemical reaction or something. Can't remember for sure. Not a full out paint guy haha. Might want to try it first on a test piece. Again, ask me how I know...

I intend on sanding plenty. I want it to shine! I used a rattle can clear in shop class a couple years back and it worked fine. I'll avoid the ones you mentioned, though. ..My grandpa's got a gun, but I ain't sure I wanna get into all that. I'll probably just use the extra clear we have around the house.

Thanks for the heads up. I don't mind knowitalls, they help me learn. It's Krylon Premium Original Chrome. From Wally World. If it ends up bad on the test piece, maybe I'll just skip the clear coat.

How do you know...??

[wannabang 13]

Got the power wire run under the car today.

Since this is the first time I'll have ever run wire under the car, I'd like to know if I ran it safely. Besides the obvious of avoiding the exhaust, is it too close tot he engine? Or Should I avoid zip-tying it to the fuel line?

The wire is always above the lowest point of the car and the only time I can see it getting hot is on its way down from the battery and when it goes up through the grommet, since that's when it is closest to exhaust or engine. Has a good 4 inches of room, though.

[wannabang 13]

Just got home from getting the windows done. Pretty happy. He recommended 28%, but I got 18%. For $85, not bad.

All pictures taken with sun directly overhead/slightly toward front of car.

I'm not sure that it's actually darker than the rear, as it looks in the last picture, but the hue is definitely different. I'm happy.

[wannabang 13]

Gotta go get some more spray paint, but before I left, I got the hinge for the center of the floor on, and the back beauty panel.

There's going to be a small gap, as you can see, but it should be a big deal. Need to find carpet, and make the rounded piece at the end... This false floor thing is challenging when ya got all these things you want under it...

[wannabang 13]

Finished the paint, port, and got the top put on. Still need to get some carpet for the floor. Anyone have any recommendations, local stores, that sell automotive carpet, or something thin that will pass for it?

I'll have pictures tomorrow.

[reelfish92 54]

Nice work.