Bad electrical problem on ford escape

[djtomczak 5]

So this just recently started happening. I'll be driving normally with the bass going at a decent level, not blasting but a decent level. Then just randomly my escapes information panel will say check break system then the traction control on, traction control off, abs, and parking break lights will all show up. All this happens for half a second accompanied by an alert tone. This only happens on punchy bass. I've checked all connections and they are fine, the battery holds a good charge, the alternator is still putting out, and voltage stays above 14 when this happens. Any ideas?

[OuTLaWeD 110]

try a DMM at the battery to get a reading. my bet is that your battery is either going or it's your alt. my expedition had the same problem, got a new alt and now everything is great again.

[djtomczak 5]

I have a voltmeter inside connected to the battery so I have a reading from that. It's always above 14. The car idles at 14.3.

[shizzzon 461]

check batt voltage several hours after turning off vehicle.

If it's in the mid to high 12s, is it stock batt? Still using SAE posts?

I had a fight with my stock battery that started acting erratic when i finally figured out

the posts formed a layer of resistance that's invisible to the eye.

Resolution was to get a terminal bolt post batt and never had the problem again.

Another symptom i was getting when this was happening was the clock in the car or radio controls randomly reset.

[jonbearsmt 919]

humm

Edited October 1, 2012 by bigjon

[djtomczak 5]

It's an optima red top, I'll go check the voltage now. It has been off for about two hours.

Battery is sitting at a nice 12.6.

Edited October 1, 2012 by djtomczak

[scampo77 0]

1.) How many amps is your stereo drawing?

2.) Can you get it to repeat with consistency?

3.) Where is the power for your amps coming from?

email me directly scampo77@gmail.com so i can get your vin number to look up wiring diagrams.

[emh9009 199]

I've read that a lot of peole have problems with the stock alts on Escapes. It may be starting to go out..

[KyleBrown 121]

sounds like you're grounding out a positive lead somewhere.

[scampo77 0]

let me know if you are still interested in fixing this problem.

If you have accses to a scan tool and see if it has thrown a code for low abs voltage. The computers for ABS and airbags are on 10v regulated power supplies and are very sensitive. Other (but not all) engine managment systems run off of 5v regulated power and are much more forgiving to spikes. I am thinking the same as everyone else here that it is a current spike dropping the voltage below 10v, if that is the case you can cause damage to a specific part in the airbag system.

let me know how you would like to proceed and if you need some help.

[djtomczak 5]

I'll check it out with my scan tool when I get home. When going hard with the bass it can sometimes go below 12v but when I see that I turn it down. The alternator brings it back up to 14.3 quickly. I've checked all the connections and nothing is touching and all of them are tight. Ill email you, scampo, when I get home with the vin. Grounds in the back are taken from the floor in the back, sanded down and screwed directly to the frame. Ground from the battery is directly to the body as well. This is not a consistent problem, certain notes set it off at certain times. Power for amps comes directly from the battery.

[scampo77 0]

if you can see a 12v spike on a digital meter then i have no doubt you are going below regulated voltage to the body computers. If you hook up an oscilliscope you will see it right away.I dont need your wiring diagrams to tell you are drawing more current then the battery can buffer.

I work at ford as a mechanic and i see this all the time and i have all my carrer. people put massive current aftermarket amplifiers then bolt them to the body of a framless car. these things come into the shop often enough this reaks havoc on all sorts of weird and unusual things you would never expect. fuel pumps, window regulators, heater cores, body computers (ESPECIALLY AIRBAGS!) look up DC electrolosys on google. i have even seen one guy rust out one frame rail while the other was fine. it is something car audio guys dont realize because after an airbag controller or heater core fails you never bring it back to the guy that installed a car radio, you bring it to a guy like me. this problem seems to be getting wrose as power gets cheaper and car subs are getting more inefficient. for $100 and a ebay account you can hang a 60amp dynamic draw off the side of a 80 amp static charging system

do yourself a favor and hook everything to the battery. and by the sounds of it get a second one.

and/or get more efficient speakers.

figure out what peak amp load is on your aftermarket stereo to take this further. not the stickers on the side of the amp but an actual measurement with a shunt or keep putting a smaller and smaller fuse in till it blows under full load.

[djtomczak 5]

I used an amp probe before and found the most I draw is a litle under 100 amps on the 1 channel and about 30 on the four channel. So yeah way more than the car can handle.

In conclusion I need another battery, ground ran to the battery, and another alternator?

I've installed this all my self knowing the risks, but what all could be harmed by the stereo that I could have the dealership check. I have family at the dealership by me so I could easilly get replacement parts under warranty.

[scampo77 0]

well from what i am "hearing" nothing has failed yet. but it is like hitting a piece of glass with a hammer. just cause its not broken now......

if you have accses to a dealership go in the back and try to find a mechanic with some sort of electrical knowledge. they are hard to come by cause most mechanics like to blurt out "ya ya i know everything about this stuff" if you can use your best judgement and try to ask an experienced guy some of your questions and give him your symptoms. the main sensor i have seen fail due to electrolysis is the air bag accelerometer, this used to be on the firewall but now are under your console or under your seat (depending on vehicle). these bolt to your car and rely on a body ground back to the control module. imagine that sensor asking for .003 amp to genereate a signal and your 130 plus amp load coarseing through the floor pan like a steamroller overtop sensitive (and not so sensetive) sensors and controllers. AND your beating on it so bad your actually shutting off control modules. you are going to (if you havenet already) create ground loops which throw sensors and controllers out of parameters. with the abs and crash sensors in modern vehicles when they come on they can STAY on till the sensor or controller is logged against the VIN in the govt registry and the sensor/computer is replaced with a new one and reset with dealership only scan tools.

you may get a false reading causeing this to log as an accident. if that happens it may de value your car on resale for no reason.

all of these situations are worst case scenario,a lot needs to be in place before like, IF your car is equiped with..... IF your ground looping.... IF...IF....IF.... but with that being said i have seen this before with car audio but more with poorly thought out big amp draw things like hydralic pumps or actuators for things like snow plows or tail gates.

as for the second alternator, you need to know that if you are running an aditional 60amps that is ~1HP. your crank pully and belt is not designed to just have an extra 1HP load hanging on it. cars are designed to get fuel economy (amongst other things) and one way to do this is to build them lighter and an easier to turn engine and pulleys. I would try a second and third battery first, this will dampen out a lot and they will be easier to retro fit in your car.