Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[///M5 2,833]

Buy something as new as you can that has depreciated a crap ton that you expect to not depreciate quickly from that point on.  Buying price - eventual selling price + whatever ownership costs you want to include is the calculation to use.  Not buying price.

[dem beats 1,223]

Hand and forearm stretches might help.

Have to do it all day, but in a hot tub/soak or hot shower can help with the healing process.

Edited July 22, 2015 by dem beats

[MKader17 332]

Buy something as new as you can that has depreciated a crap ton that you expect to not depreciate quickly from that point on. Buying price - eventual selling price + whatever ownership costs you want to include is the calculation to use. Not buying price.

So the cost of a lease would be (down payment plus monthly payment * 36) -0 + ( maintenance (0)+ wear and tear+ lease fees) =cost

[dem beats 1,223]

Buy something as new as you can that has depreciated a crap ton that you expect to not depreciate quickly from that point on. Buying price - eventual selling price + whatever ownership costs you want to include is the calculation to use. Not buying price.

So the cost of a lease would be (down payment plus monthly payment * 36) -0 + ( maintenance (0)+ wear and tear+ lease fees) =cost

Yup. But still cheaper than buying a new car usually and keeps you in a new car so long as you accept the loss as a cost of living.

[ssh 924]

Speaking of, here is my "nowplaying" screen atm anyway.

There is one error you can see I am trying to track down. Only affects one folder of random music so I had to use that as the test bed.

Not trying to hate, but that UI is hideous and looks like a 1995 web page design

show me a better one I can make it look like whatever I want

How is it made?

I've been making programs in LabView where I make the UI look like Android material design.

XML and pictures. Only trick are finding/making the pictures.

You can find tons of free buttons on deviant art for GUI skins for gnome, KDE, windows, winamp, etc, just gotta download the zip and grab the images you want.

Editing the buttons would be easy with Photoshop or gimp.

Editing XML markup should be pretty easy too.

[Adrian_D 520]

 

 

win 8.1 32bit tablet 

http://www.amazon.com/Winbook-TW700-Tablet-full-size-Microsoft/dp/B00QDJ2FUK

 

or grab a gen 1/2 n7 for andriod. 

 

Windows 8 devices are starting to look more and more tempting. And now that I finished my Note2 charging woes, it would be smart to change and go through that pain again. NOT

 

Android or IOS are WAY too limited for a car install IMO.

 

 

Android...yes and no, depends on how many peripherals you want. 

[Adrian_D 520]

 

The city is bombarded with road and utility work. Pretty ironic to think it is the European Youth capital this year and everything is a bloody construction site. 

 

The bicycle is the only reasonable means of transport to be honest.

Don't you have a spare bike or three? If so sell em and make a nice markup.

J

 

 

 

Nope, I won't sell them, no profit to be found  

[Adrian_D 520]

 

 

 

 

 

Speaking of, here is my "nowplaying" screen atm anyway.

There is one error you can see I am trying to track down. Only affects one folder of random music so I had to use that as the test bed.

Not trying to hate, but that UI is hideous and looks like a 1995 web page design

show me a better one I can make it look like whatever I want

How is it made?

I've been making programs in LabView where I make the UI look like Android material design.

XML and pictures. Only trick are finding/making the pictures.

You can find tons of free buttons on deviant art for GUI skins for gnome, KDE, windows, winamp, etc, just gotta download the zip and grab the images you want.

Editing the buttons would be easy with Photoshop or gimp.

Editing XML markup should be pretty easy too.

 

 

 

"Should be easy"....hah, that's the bane of my existence. After I say that, everything goes to shit. 

[ssh 924]

I have confidence in this scenario.

[///M5 2,833]

Buy something as new as you can that has depreciated a crap ton that you expect to not depreciate quickly from that point on. Buying price - eventual selling price + whatever ownership costs you want to include is the calculation to use. Not buying price.

So the cost of a lease would be (down payment plus monthly payment * 36) -0 + ( maintenance (0)+ wear and tear+ lease fees) =cost

Don't forget the potential over mileage as well. Those fee's hurt.

[///M5 2,833]

Buy something as new as you can that has depreciated a crap ton that you expect to not depreciate quickly from that point on. Buying price - eventual selling price + whatever ownership costs you want to include is the calculation to use. Not buying price.

So the cost of a lease would be (down payment plus monthly payment * 36) -0 + ( maintenance (0)+ wear and tear+ lease fees) =cost

Yup. But still cheaper than buying a new car usually and keeps you in a new car so long as you accept the loss as a cost of living.

You made the assumption people are dumb and buy new cars...

[///M5 2,833]

win 8.1 32bit tablet 

http://www.amazon.com/Winbook-TW700-Tablet-full-size-Microsoft/dp/B00QDJ2FUK

 

or grab a gen 1/2 n7 for andriod.

 

Windows 8 devices are starting to look more and more tempting. And now that I finished my Note2 charging woes, it would be smart to change and go through that pain again. NOT

Android or IOS are WAY too limited for a car install IMO.

 

Android...yes and no, depends on how many peripherals you want.

I was close with mine. Windows is WAY smoother and quicker at everything though.

[///M5 2,833]

"Should be easy"....hah, that's the bane of my existence. After I say that, everything goes to shit.

Indeed.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Down to 245 lbs. now, at least.

Keep up your good work?

[Adrian_D 520]

I have confidence in this scenario.

 

And the end result is Sean buys an Ipad ? 

[Adrian_D 520]

 

 

 

 

win 8.1 32bit tablet 

http://www.amazon.com/Winbook-TW700-Tablet-full-size-Microsoft/dp/B00QDJ2FUK

 

or grab a gen 1/2 n7 for andriod.

 

Windows 8 devices are starting to look more and more tempting. And now that I finished my Note2 charging woes, it would be smart to change and go through that pain again. NOT

 

Android or IOS are WAY too limited for a car install IMO.

 

 

Android...yes and no, depends on how many peripherals you want.

 

I was close with mine. Windows is WAY smoother and quicker at everything though.

 

 

For me, the most I need is a GPS and a simple music player. Steering wheel controls are "sorted" for the Jeep. 

 

But when I started the Jeep install I found a few problems. Music players do not like folders with a zillion songs and charging needs special attention.  

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Contemplating a new headphone amp. I have decided on the company, now I need to decide on the amp. Woo Audio is a US company that specializes in headphone amps. I have it narrowed down to the  WA3 or the WA6

 

I need a little advice.

 

WA3

 

WA6

 

The WA3 goes for $600, the WA6 for $700. I don't need preamp outs and I will not buy their upgraded tubes. I have my research down on the tubes and rectifiers for each amp.

 

The WA3 is a OLT design, or an output transformerless design. This has a tendency to be extremely linear. But it has the drawback of needing really high impedance drivers to provide beneficial damping factor for the transformerless output design. Basically, it is supposed to be one of the nicest amps to pair with the Senn HD600, 650, 700, 800, etc. Plus it is $100 cheaper than the WA6, which means for the same money I can roll more tubes.

 

BUT!!!

 

Low impedance drivers do not offer the damping factor required to make the OTL design work to it's potential. I have a few "bucket list" cans I want, and some do not fall into the high impedance driver category necessary to facilitate the WA3. The WA6 ticks all the boxes for the HD600s, and my "bucket list" cans. Not only that, but my Momentums will fall into the "wrong amp, fucktard" scenario if I grab the WA3.

 

I was thinking about giving my son my current amp, and I really don't want a crowd of headphone amps on my nightstand. I also don't want to wind up with several DACs, and interconnects to further crowd my headphone amp area. Along with my nightstand I now have a rack with DACs, external HDDs, Battery backup, server, Pio Elite DV45A SACD/DVD/CD player, and 2 CD/DVD burners (I am a closet burner and have some really kick ass external burners).

 

So do I buy the WA6 as a future proof deal, even though I may never buy another set of cans? Do I buy the WA3 as it is really THE design I want to go with my current HD600 cans, with the realization that I may be fucking myself in the future?

 

You're killing me.

[///M5 2,833]

 

 

 

 

 

win 8.1 32bit tablet 

http://www.amazon.com/Winbook-TW700-Tablet-full-size-Microsoft/dp/B00QDJ2FUK

 

or grab a gen 1/2 n7 for andriod.

 

Windows 8 devices are starting to look more and more tempting. And now that I finished my Note2 charging woes, it would be smart to change and go through that pain again. NOT

 

Android or IOS are WAY too limited for a car install IMO.

 

 

Android...yes and no, depends on how many peripherals you want.

 

I was close with mine. Windows is WAY smoother and quicker at everything though.

 

 

For me, the most I need is a GPS and a simple music player. Steering wheel controls are "sorted" for the Jeep. 

 

But when I started the Jeep install I found a few problems. Music players do not like folders with a zillion songs and charging needs special attention.  

 

IOS doesn't like a lot of songs either.  Even worse when they are albums.

 

To put this in perspective, between Miles Davis and John Coltrane alone I am over 450 albums.  That is just the tip of the iceberg though, but having a music player that can't deal with that SUCKS.

[///M5 2,833]

 

Contemplating a new headphone amp. I have decided on the company, now I need to decide on the amp. Woo Audio is a US company that specializes in headphone amps. I have it narrowed down to the  WA3 or the WA6

 

I need a little advice.

 

WA3

 

WA6

 

The WA3 goes for $600, the WA6 for $700. I don't need preamp outs and I will not buy their upgraded tubes. I have my research down on the tubes and rectifiers for each amp.

 

The WA3 is a OLT design, or an output transformerless design. This has a tendency to be extremely linear. But it has the drawback of needing really high impedance drivers to provide beneficial damping factor for the transformerless output design. Basically, it is supposed to be one of the nicest amps to pair with the Senn HD600, 650, 700, 800, etc. Plus it is $100 cheaper than the WA6, which means for the same money I can roll more tubes.

 

BUT!!!

 

Low impedance drivers do not offer the damping factor required to make the OTL design work to it's potential. I have a few "bucket list" cans I want, and some do not fall into the high impedance driver category necessary to facilitate the WA3. The WA6 ticks all the boxes for the HD600s, and my "bucket list" cans. Not only that, but my Momentums will fall into the "wrong amp, fucktard" scenario if I grab the WA3.

 

I was thinking about giving my son my current amp, and I really don't want a crowd of headphone amps on my nightstand. I also don't want to wind up with several DACs, and interconnects to further crowd my headphone amp area. Along with my nightstand I now have a rack with DACs, external HDDs, Battery backup, server, Pio Elite DV45A SACD/DVD/CD player, and 2 CD/DVD burners (I am a closet burner and have some really kick ass external burners).

 

So do I buy the WA6 as a future proof deal, even though I may never buy another set of cans? Do I buy the WA3 as it is really THE design I want to go with my current HD600 cans, with the realization that I may be fucking myself in the future?

 

You're killing me.

 

I am actually just trying to ignore those pics and posts.  I have nothing to add really and I don't want to know/lust so ignoring is healthier.

 

I do listen to tubes more than any other medium at the moment, but my amp has 2 EL-34 Groove Tubes and 5 AX7's in jackets so they are of unknown sort.

[MKader17 332]

Buy something as new as you can that has depreciated a crap ton that you expect to not depreciate quickly from that point on. Buying price - eventual selling price + whatever ownership costs you want to include is the calculation to use. Not buying price.

So the cost of a lease would be (down payment plus monthly payment * 36) -0 + ( maintenance (0)+ wear and tear+ lease fees) =cost

Don't forget the potential over mileage as well. Those fee's hurt.

Iirc my dad pays extra to allow for more mileage

[///M5 2,833]

 

 

 

Buy something as new as you can that has depreciated a crap ton that you expect to not depreciate quickly from that point on. Buying price - eventual selling price + whatever ownership costs you want to include is the calculation to use. Not buying price.

So the cost of a lease would be (down payment plus monthly payment * 36) -0 + ( maintenance (0)+ wear and tear+ lease fees) =cost

Don't forget the potential over mileage as well. Those fee's hurt.

Iirc my dad pays extra to allow for more mileage

 

You missed the point.  You either pay for mileage you do not use or you pay extra when you use too much.  It's a cost and fits in your equation.  If it is all paid up front you can be blind to it and just consider it cost, but if you go over you underestimated.

 

There is one time I've seen where a lease makes sense.  My boss bought a new Toureg.  His lease payment was subsidized in rate such that the sum of the lease payments + the buyout were LESS than the negotiated purchasing price.  Obviously then it is a no brainer.  It was a whopping $300 difference, but why not as it gave him the flexilibility to walk away.

 

The fundamental flaw of a lease is that you are leasing a new car.  This means no matter what you suffer from a depreciation hit that is huge.  The second problem is you are being loaned both the value of the car and the value of the residual which is why they use a money factor instead of an APR.  They have to hide it from you.  Add to that the fact that the residual value is based on whole sale you get doubly fucked.  Manufacturers of course realize this and subsidize it to make it work sometimes.

 

I lease a used car.  No companies do this in a normal lease fashion anymore.  The lease your dad has is a CLOSED ended lease.  Meaning the price of the car at the end of the lease is pre-determined.  I lease used with an OPEN ended lease.  This means I pick my residual value, but am also responsible.  ie, if I buy a car for $50k and pick $25k as my residual at the end of the lease if the car is worth $30k I can sell it and pocket $5k, but if it is worth $20k then I owe $5k.  The advantage of an open ended lease is that the money factor (APR) is usually much lower as there is no risk for the leasing company.  It also allows businesses to then lease cars for the tax write off.

[///M5 2,833]

Streamlight DS HL $125 with charging cradle

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BK3EXMW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

- I love the cradle but NIMH

-Output is a bit low:  640 for 1h15m, 340 for 2h

 

Olight M22 Warrior - $78

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUG0X6E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

-I have 18650's already so that is nice, but sucks I have to remove them

-Output is good, but medium which I'd probably use a lot is lower than the Streamlight: 950 for 1h, 250 for 3hr

 

Nitecore P25 - $84

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MA1HB36/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AQ01Z7KYQQY3H

-USB port .... I'd prefer a cradle but better than removing batteries

-Output is great: 960 for 1h45, 605 for 2h, 200 for 7h  (I expect for biking 605 will be what I use and 960 for on the boat)

 

Fenix UC50 - $121

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JKQFV8G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AMCCGH3BJHZB5

-Cradle charger...but not an 18650

-Usable output 900 for 1.25, 415 for 2.75

 

Sort of makes me either want the Fenix...but I hate the proprietary battery.  The cradle hanging on the garage wall is perfect as I wouldn't have the then plug anything in.  Output wise I think the Nitecore wins for what I want.  Aargh.  Why is this so hard.

[ssh 924]

Just get a flare gun.

[ssh 924]

[mikel7829 90]

Streamlight DS HL $125 with charging cradle

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BK3EXMW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

- I love the cradle but NIMH

-Output is a bit low:  640 for 1h15m, 340 for 2h

 

Olight M22 Warrior - $78

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUG0X6E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

-I have 18650's already so that is nice, but sucks I have to remove them

-Output is good, but medium which I'd probably use a lot is lower than the Streamlight: 950 for 1h, 250 for 3hr

 

Nitecore P25 - $84

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MA1HB36/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AQ01Z7KYQQY3H

-USB port .... I'd prefer a cradle but better than removing batteries

-Output is great: 960 for 1h45, 605 for 2h, 200 for 7h  (I expect for biking 605 will be what I use and 960 for on the boat)

 

Fenix UC50 - $121

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JKQFV8G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AMCCGH3BJHZB5

-Cradle charger...but not an 18650

-Usable output 900 for 1.25, 415 for 2.75

 

Sort of makes me either want the Fenix...but I hate the proprietary battery.  The cradle hanging on the garage wall is perfect as I wouldn't have the then plug anything in.  Output wise I think the Nitecore wins for what I want.  Aargh.  Why is this so hard.

How many lumens? Lol