GCON Build - Help Needed

[gator_bait 0]

New to the forums, so forgive me if this is in the wrong thread. I'm about to purchase a GCON for my first build in 5 years, and I want to make sure it's done right.

 

So, I'll be running a single GCON-12 in the trunk of my 2007 Honda Accord SE. I've been looking at the RF Prime R1000-1D Amp, which puts out 1000 RMS @ 2 Ohms. Feel free to suggest a better matched amp, just trying to get something for $250.00 or under.

 

http://www.sonicelec...00-1D.html#tabs

 

First question: Since the GCON-12 is a DVC sub, I would need to get the 4 Ohm model (D4) to get 1000 RMS out of this amp, correct? (I realize this is overpowered for the GCON, but I want to have a little overhead for future endeavors.)

 

Second question is regarding the box. Havent been able to find any recommended spec's on the site, but I'm thinking about using this design: 2.5 cubes after displacement, tuned to 32 hz.

 

http://imageshack.us...125sqin0zp.png/

 

Should the GCON perform well in this enclosure? Should I go larger? I've got a good amount of space to work with, but I'd like to keep it under 3 cubes. I would put up some trunk dimensions, but I'm at the office right now.

 

Thanks in advance for any advice! I'm really looking forward to starting this build.

[altoncustomtech 773]

to the forum!!

 

 

You've made a fantastic choice on your sub and the RF amp should be a great match IMO.  You're correct, D4 coils will be needed, wired in parallel, for a final 2 ohm load on the amp.  

 

As for the box specs, they're right HERE on the SSA site on the enclosure recommendations tab, but your thoughts of 2.5cuft NET tuned to 32hz is accurate and the sub should do very well with it.  SSA's optimal recommendations are from 2.5cuft to 3cuft.

 

Post up the dims and we can help you out with a basic design, no problem.

[gator_bait 0]

to the forum!!

 

 

You've made a fantastic choice on your sub and the RF amp should be a great match IMO.  You're correct, D4 coils will be needed, wired in parallel, for a final 2 ohm load on the amp.  

 

As for the box specs, they're right HERE on the SSA site on the enclosure recommendations tab, but your thoughts of 2.5cuft NET tuned to 32hz is accurate and the sub should do very well with it.  SSA's optimal recommendations are from 2.5cuft to 3cuft.

 

Post up the dims and we can help you out with a basic design, no problem.

 

Thanks for the quick response, Alton. Just submitted my order for the GCON... and the wait begins!

 

Really excited to see what this sub can do. Had my heart set on a JL 12w6v2 & matching amp for months... but when it came time to buy, I simply couldnt justify spending that much for a single sub setup. Really glad I found SSA, looks like they put out some high quality products.

 

Also thanks for posting those box spec's... I had been looking at THIS page, which doesnt show the enclosure dimensions. I'll be sure to post my trunk measurements tonight.

 

Since the recommended size is 2.5 - 3.0 cubes, are there any significant advantages of using a larger box (3.0) over a smaller (2.5)?

[AXEHAMMER 16]

to the forum!!

 

 

You've made a fantastic choice on your sub and the RF amp should be a great match IMO.  You're correct, D4 coils will be needed, wired in parallel, for a final 2 ohm load on the amp.  

 

As for the box specs, they're right HERE on the SSA site on the enclosure recommendations tab, but your thoughts of 2.5cuft NET tuned to 32hz is accurate and the sub should do very well with it.  SSA's optimal recommendations are from 2.5cuft to 3cuft.

 

Post up the dims and we can help you out with a basic design, no problem.

 

Thanks for the quick response, Alton. Just submitted my order for the GCON... and the wait begins!

 

Really excited to see what this sub can do. Had my heart set on a JL 12w6v2 & matching amp for months... but when it came time to buy, I simply couldnt justify spending that much for a single sub setup. Really glad I found SSA, looks like they put out some high quality products.

 

Also thanks for posting those box spec's... I had been looking at THIS page, which doesnt show the enclosure dimensions. I'll be sure to post my trunk measurements tonight.

 

Since the recommended size is 2.5 - 3.0 cubes, are there any significant advantages of using a larger box (3.0) over a smaller (2.5)?

Take it with a grain of salt gator, but from what I understand the bigger box would be a little louder AT tuning than the smaller one. Another reason I chose a larger enclosure is the fact that I am underpowering my xcons by a few hundred watts, so with  a bigger box it was easier to reach their full potential. ie reach full excursion on lower power.

[gator_bait 0]

 

 

Since the recommended size is 2.5 - 3.0 cubes, are there any significant advantages of using a larger box (3.0) over a smaller (2.5)?

 

Take it with a grain of salt gator, but from what I understand the bigger box would be a little louder AT tuning than the smaller one. Another reason I chose a larger enclosure is the fact that I am underpowering my xcons by a few hundred watts, so with  a bigger box it was easier to reach their full potential. ie reach full excursion on lower power.

 

Thanks for the input, AXE. That's pretty much what I was thinking.

 

Since this amp is pushing 1000 RMS & the GCON only takes 750 RMS, I'm thinking I should be OK w/ the smaller enclosure. Just wasnt sure if that extra .5 cubes would make a major difference. I might just end up building two, and see which I prefer.

[EPerez 236]

Go with the bigger one. It'll be more efficient.

[Polish 9]

I say go with the bigger one too, I highly doubt you'll actually see 1k watts from that amp.

[AXEHAMMER 16]

I say go with the bigger one too, I highly doubt you'll actually see 1k watts from that amp.

I agree. and not because its a bad amp, but on a typical install we never see what the amp is rated at due to our electrical and such. I also know the sub will handle the power if you are careful with it. Enjoy! great choice and welcome!

[gator_bait 0]

Go with the bigger one. It'll be more efficient.

 

 

I say go with the bigger one too, I highly doubt you'll actually see 1k watts from that amp.

 

 

I say go with the bigger one too, I highly doubt you'll actually see 1k watts from that amp.

I agree. and not because its a bad amp, but on a typical install we never see what the amp is rated at due to our electrical and such. I also know the sub will handle the power if you are careful with it. Enjoy! great choice and welcome!

 

So the general concensus is that bigger is better (while still staying within the optimal dimensions). Good to know.

 

Measured the trunk last night, and determined that I have about 32" x 20" x 15" (Width / Depth / Height) to work with. I realize that I may not be able to get a full 3 cubes net out of this space, but I'll be happy as long as the box is within recommended spec's.

 

I'd like the box to sit right up against the rear seat. To do so, the box can be no more than 32" wide, and no more than 15" tall. I have some leeway with the depth, but I'd prefer to stay at 20" or less, so that I still have some functional trunk space.

 

Anybody want to take a whack at a basic ported box design? *Tuned to 31-32hz

Edited April 2, 2013 by gator_bait

[AXEHAMMER 16]

Alton did my design for me and it was awesome. He was there anytime I had a question and his calculations were spot on. Im sure if he has the time he would help you. Super awesome dude to have on your side   There are others on here that help time to time with box designs and they are just as good im sure, it just seems alton is always first to offer and again, you cant work with a better person.

[Polish 9]

Go with the bigger one. It'll be more efficient.

 

 

>I say go with the bigger one too, I highly doubt you'll actually see 1k watts from that amp.

 

 

I say go with the bigger one too, I highly doubt you'll actually see 1k watts from that amp.

I agree. and not because its a bad amp, but on a typical install we never see what the amp is rated at due to our electrical and such. I also know the sub will handle the power if you are careful with it. Enjoy! great choice and welcome!

 

So the general concensus is that bigger is better (while still staying within the optimal dimensions). Good to know.

 

Measured the trunk last night, and determined that I have about 32" x 20" x 15" (Width / Depth / Height) to work with. I realize that I may not be able to get a full 3 cubes net out of this space, but I'll be happy as long as the box is within recommended spec's.

 

I'd like the box to sit right up against the rear seat. To do so, the box can be no more than 32" wide, and no more than 15" tall. I have some leeway with the depth, but I'd prefer to stay at 20" or less, so that I still have some functional trunk space.

 

Anybody want to take a whack at a basic ported box design? *Tuned to 31-32hz

 

 

I can't really help you with box design as I only hand draw them myself, I suck as google sketch up and don't have any of the fancy programs. I can however tell you that a box that size should be able to get you plenty of airspace.

 

32 x 20 x 15 minus wood thickness (single 3/4" sheet all around) is 30.5 x 18.5 x 13.5. That is 4.40 cu/ft total internal volume. You'll need to subtract woofer displacement and port displacement from that but you should be able to easily get the air space you're after and then some. The 12" Gcon has a displacement of .15 cu/ft, so that leaves you with 4.25 cu/ft which is more than enough. I doubt your port will even take up a full cu/ft (likely much less than a cube) depending on the size you go with so you can probably make a smaller enclosure and still be at 3.0 cu/ft.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Just for a quick run through the numbers, at 30" W x 15" H x 20" D I was able to get 3cuft NET tuned to 32 with 47.25sqin of port area at 3.5" x 13.5".  That's a straight up simple L shaped slot port enclosure with a little bracing and no double baffle or anything.  We'd have to play around with numbers a little more to get room for a double baffle, 45's, and that sort of stuff, no biggie.

 

That should be a fairly well rounded enclosure.  Do you have a preference on sub and port orientation?  

[gator_bait 0]

Just for a quick run through the numbers, at 30" W x 15" H x 20" D I was able to get 3cuft NET tuned to 32 with 47.25sqin of port area at 3.5" x 13.5".  That's a straight up simple L shaped slot port enclosure with a little bracing and no double baffle or anything.  We'd have to play around with numbers a little more to get room for a double baffle, 45's, and that sort of stuff, no biggie.

 

That should be a fairly well rounded enclosure.  Do you have a preference on sub and port orientation?  

 

Awesome - thanks for working that up.

 

I would like to have a double baffle on the face of the box, if possible, so that the sub can be flush mounted. Forgot to mention that in my previous post...

 

As for the sub & port orientation, they'll need to be facing the rear of the car. It'd be great if the port was on one side of the box & the sub was mounted on the opposite side, but this is not necessary... center-mounting the sub would also be fine, if that's easier.

 

Thanks again for the help, Alton. Much appreciated

[altoncustomtech 773]

Just for a quick run through the numbers, at 30" W x 15" H x 20" D I was able to get 3cuft NET tuned to 32 with 47.25sqin of port area at 3.5" x 13.5".  That's a straight up simple L shaped slot port enclosure with a little bracing and no double baffle or anything.  We'd have to play around with numbers a little more to get room for a double baffle, 45's, and that sort of stuff, no biggie.

 

That should be a fairly well rounded enclosure.  Do you have a preference on sub and port orientation?  

 

Awesome - thanks for working that up.

 

I would like to have a double baffle on the face of the box, if possible, so that the sub can be flush mounted. Forgot to mention that in my previous post...

 

As for the sub & port orientation, they'll need to be facing the rear of the car. It'd be great if the port was on one side of the box & the sub was mounted on the opposite side, but this is not necessary... center-mounting the sub would also be fine, if that's easier.

 

Thanks again for the help, Alton. Much appreciated

 

Alright, double baffle within the 20" it is.

 

Placement on the box isn't really any kind of issue for me designing.

 

I'll draw something up real quick and you can see if it's what you're after or not.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Here's a quick rendering.  Final specs after adding the double baffle is 2.99cuft NET tuned to 32hz with the same 47.25sqin of port area.  I was able to get the double baffle in without really eating up any of the internal volume thanks to the extra volume that was in for the bracing.  Onto the pics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, at this point if you like it, I can finish the design and get you the cut sheets.  Two quick questions:  1.  Do you have a router with a roundover bit?  I can show rounded edges on the enclosure, port, etc.  2.  Do you know how you want to finish the enclosure?  (Colors, carpet, vinyl, bedliner, etc.)

[Polish 9]

What program do you use to make that with? 

[altoncustomtech 773]

It's drawn in Sketchup, the calculations are done with an excel spreadsheet of my own making.

[Polish 9]

Dang, I was hoping it was something else. I am terrible at using sketchup. I've tried and tried and I simply cannot get stuff to look that good. 

[altoncustomtech 773]

Dang, I was hoping it was something else. I am terrible at using sketchup. I've tried and tried and I simply cannot get stuff to look that good. 

 

LOL, I know how you feel.  I'm still learning how to use that damn program and it's taken me a couple of years to get to where I can do most of the things I try doing with it.

 

This rendering of my XCON 10 was the most complicated thing I've tried so far.  I drew it before I ever had the sub in my hands so I don't think it came out too bad considering I had to do almost all the measurements from the little bit that's posted and guesswork.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'd love to be able to do a lot better with it though.

[Polish 9]

That is awesome. I can barely make a square without messing it up somehow. So seeing the box you did is beyond impressive to me, the speaker just blows my mind. I only have a laptop too, which I've worn the mouse pad thing out on so it's real sketchy (no pun intended) when trying to make fine adjustments. 

[gator_bait 0]

Here's a quick rendering.  Final specs after adding the double baffle is 2.99cuft NET tuned to 32hz with the same 47.25sqin of port area.  I was able to get the double baffle in without really eating up any of the internal volume thanks to the extra volume that was in for the bracing.  Onto the pics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, at this point if you like it, I can finish the design and get you the cut sheets.  Two quick questions:  1.  Do you have a router with a roundover bit?  I can show rounded edges on the enclosure, port, etc.  2.  Do you know how you want to finish the enclosure?  (Colors, carpet, vinyl, bedliner, etc.)

 

 

That is perfect - exactly what I was hoping for. I cant wait to start building this thing.

 

1. Yes. I was planning on routing at least the port, maybe some of the edges as well.

 

2. Planning on just painting it black, probably paint the port silver to match the car.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Awesome, I'm glad it's what you're after. I'll get started on finishing it up.

Thanx for the info on ur plans to finish it, I think you'll really like the next pics I post of it.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Okay, here's the finished product, specs are same as above.  Drew in the rounded port corners, rounded the top of the enclosure and last few pics are basically what it will look like when it's completed.

 

 

 

Here's the cutsheet first.

 

 

 

 

Here's the baffle brace, shows it's placement on the front and this isn't set in stone just as a reference.

 

 

 

 

Here's the loading brace, it will (hopefully) help ensure the woofer isn't unloading due to it's proximity to the port and will help some with bracing.  Again placement is relative and shown as a reference.

 

 

 

 

This shows the sub cutout and flush.  It shows a diameter of 12.5" for the flush mount, it should ideally be a little larger than that for a little wiggle room.

 

 

 

 

This one gives an overview of all the cut panel dimensions, where and how they fit together.

 

 

 

 

And this is basically what it will look like when it's completed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, that's the design.  If you need any explanations or further help with it don't hesitate to ask.  I hope it's not too hard to understand the cutsheets and such.

[gator_bait 0]

So, that's the design.  If you need any explanations or further help with it don't hesitate to ask.  I hope it's not too hard to understand the cutsheets and such.

 

Beautiful! I cant thank you enough for putting that together for me.

 

Got another project I'm working on this weekend, but I'll be starting on the box sometime next week. I'll be sure to post pics as I go.

 

On a side note, my new HU showed up today, so hopefully I'll get that installed tonight.

[gator_bait 0]

So, that's the design.  If you need any explanations or further help with it don't hesitate to ask.  I hope it's not too hard to understand the cutsheets and such.

 

 

So the GCON showed up Friday, and I dropped it in the trunk yesterday. Only one problem...  its not hitting like I know it should. At this point it sounds comparable to my stock 6x9's.

 

The only time it starts to bump is when I max out the HU Settings (Bass Boost, SW Output, and set the EQ to 'Superbass'). But even then, it still sounds weak. When the HU Settings are flat, you cant even tell theres a sub in the car.

 

I've set my amp LPF around 80-90, and tested the full range of the gain knob. The amp birth sheet claims 1103 watts RMS, so there should be plenty of power. There's a 'Punch Bass' setting on my amp, which I assume is just another form of Bass Boost. I'd rather leave that alone if possible. Also, my remote gain knob is not working. Theres no difference between the minimum & max settings... not sure if that indicates a problem with the amp or what.

 

Any ideas why my sub sounds so weak?

 

 

Heres the gear I'm currently using:

 

1 SSA GCON-12 D4 wired in parallel

RF Prime R1000-1D Amp

Pioneer DEH-X3500UI

Stinger 4ga Amp Kit

Custom Box - 3 cubes @ 32 hz (design above)