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Budget Active SQ Install

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2002 NBS Chevy Silverado Budget Active SQ System installation:

Since I just bought a newer truck, I thought I would share some of the build up with the site. First, I had to define my goals. Being a second car, but one that will get driven a lot installing a system was a necessity to me. Also being that I log lots of hours on the road when I do drive, driver comfort and some extra entertainment was required. In my car, I listen to satellite radio for talk and sports coverage I just wish the fidelity for music was better, but primarily I listen to CD

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Step 1 -- wiring:

I had to upgrade that funky GM wiring. For wiring, I used a local welding supply company. I brought some 20ga wire that I had cut to the right size and had them make me the appropriate 1/0 cables with ends. Total cost to me: $22

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You can also see the 3M acoustic insulation I used to knock down acoustic energy that is transmitted inside the strucutural parts of the car. Here is a close up of the rear column from the inside and you can see the white insulation is stuffed thoroughly in the channel. I mimicked this in any locations that I could get to as well as any areas that wouldn

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And a shot of where the new mids will go.

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Since the Raamat takes care of structure borne noise, I also applied a few layers of Ensolite to take care of the airborne noise. Here you can also see the test fit of my

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Once I had confidence in the outer door skin being effectively deadened I attacked the inside skin. First, wherever I could reach I applied Raamat back of the inner skin. Then to help seal up the door, I used some poly sheeting screwed to the doors across the top of the large holes. It is screwed and siliconed to help seal the holes. On top of this the door received the same treatment as the interior of the vehicle. A couple layers of mat in key locations completely covered by Ensolite.

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In the pictures of the door you can see the non-hardening modeling clay that I used to isolate the speaker from the door. There area a few mm of clay both on the door side and on the speaker side. The baffle is then covered with clay to add some mass and insure a good seal.

I simply used a piece of

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The rear doors I did very similar to the fronts. Just 2.5 layers on the outer skin, and I put Ensolite over the stock speaker as well. No rear stage necessary or desired for me.

Step 4

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I started fabricating a box, that fits under the rear seat. I had a couple goals here. The first being to hide the sub and amplifier and the second to give me a little storage for jumper cables, a tow rope, and a few other necessities to have in a PU. For this reason, I decided to put the sub on the passengers side so that I could get to the tool storage from the drivers.

Here is the frame roughed in, I used a compass to trace the hump onto the wood and free-handed it out with a router.

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Here is the box after I put a coat of flat black paint on it. Since I wasn

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damn man, that looks really nice, lookin forward to hearing the review

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Thanks, I am just looking forward to hearing it.

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very nice install. good tutorial for n00bz like me.

i've seen something similar a couple days ago. a nissan navarra. they mounted the amps on the back winshield. sub-box was made out of fiberglass (2 GZ 8s) but they put 2 neon rings on the subs :ughdunno:

Edited by Adrian_D

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that is a cool pic, that is a sweet ass instalation. I have some second skin left over, ive been debating on wether to use it on the foor or the roof.

anyway, secondskin FTW :)

still, boobies :bump:

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Sean excellent work, seriously. This is a great step by step pictorial. I love the 5 channel and RL-i 8 idea. Going to be an excellent set up when finished. Honestly I feel that you should have plenty of bass because you have a smaller space to pressurize. Keep the pictures coming.

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Sean excellent work, seriously.  This is a great step by step pictorial.  I love the 5 channel and RL-i 8 idea.  Going to be an excellent set up when finished.  Honestly I feel that you should have plenty of bass because you have a smaller space to pressurize.  Keep the pictures coming.

4 RE 8's and a 500/1 where wangtastic in a truck just 3 years younger than that.

The bass was overpowering the mids/highs so 2 Rl-i's should be great.

aparently 2 3" ports wasnt enough area beause there waws a bit of port noice but it was harly noticable over the bass. :wacky:

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denim, full size xcab trucks are extremely hard to get loud, especially compared to other vehicles. smaller area to pressurize, yeah, ok. for some reason, that just doesn't apply to fsxc trucks bro.

sean, looks great! that's alot of work going in there, and i like it! i get to start on my truck very soon, and might just mimic some of your deadening,lol...currently all that's deadened in my truck is the roof. and it needed it bad. pull your headliner down and you'll see why. two big non reinforced areas over the front passangers and one big flimsy sail over the rear seating area. there is one "T" brace for the entire roof. it splits the driver/passanger and the front/rear areas.

but in the end, that should sound sweet bro!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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i would atribute it to large, flat panels of steel unbraced and the least acoustic friendly shape in the world.

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Doubt the 8 will make the rood flex kent.

Not everyone has/had a solo X 18 :P

ummmmm...good point. :lol2:

but with all the deadening he's doing, he might as well get the roof done too

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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How well does the 3M acostic foam stuff work ?

Really well when comparing it to juut; however, it has no mass so it doesn't dampen structure born noise.

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