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The BL does not pull the amps the amp is what is pulling the amps. So if you had no dimming before putting in the new alternator and now after you have dimming then it might be that the alternator does not put out the amps it is suppose to until higher RPMs which is then not charging the batteries correctly. If it started after you put the BL in then it must be wired up differently then your last setup was so you may what to check your gain and make sure it is how it is suppose to be. Also may want to check all your ground wires to make sure they have a good, paint-free connection.

Go to Kinetik's site and use there calculator, that is what it is there for.

My paint skills arent the best but you get the general idea.

Saying that is like calling somebody 4000 miles from you, saying you need a pair of shoes, and telling them nothing other then you need a pair of shoes. Geometry..very simple basic math..it's nothing more then calculating volume of a cube or a rectangle . So..get your tape measure out..go to home depot if you don't have one and buy one..and give dimensions. The "I need a shoe but I don't know what size" bit isn't quite going to cut it. Welcome to the world of DIY...where you actually learn how to do something yourself instead of getting it handed to you!

not like he is gonna get 2600w out of that amp

No need for 6k, but 6k on one sub is gnarley.

With this budget, you could just buy a powerful and "cheap" 4 channels amplifier and a sub. You would use 2 channels for your front speakers and bridge the 2 other to run a sub. Look at the Cadence amps, or Alpine pdx, or Sundown. A 4 x 100 watts at 4 ohms amp should be enough. You need a component set for your front speakers. Which one have you listened to? What do you like? Don't forget shipping costs ! You're in NZ! Damn !

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com Clean the surface well. Get some of the buytl CLD tiles from the above link. Live happily ever after. CLD to my understanding is more effective than liquid deadener at vibration control. I have a few gallons of spectrum in my vehicle but can't really tell you how effective the Spectrum itself is as there's some mat deadener under it. If I had it to do over again, I'd have skipped the Spectrum as I really only bought it because I got it for cheap 2nd hand and it took forever to apply by brush.

I think you are correct. I have a TERRIBLE habit of not taking pictures of work in progress. I do have some pictures that I can dig up though. I will try to post some tonight. Thanks for the suggestion! I think you should also join HAF and post your pictures.

LOL There he is... Yeah, many of us would like that but not.... well you know who.

I have ordered from SDS and Don was very prompt and helpful. The CILD Tiles work great for eliminating irritating panel resonance. I also used the Butyl Rope to seal around my front speaker baffles in my doors and the around the lip of the door panel itself to help seal the door panel. The Butyl Rope has a lot useful value for all kinds of irritating buzz' and rattles. Stick with SDS and you will not be disappointed.

Don is an awesome guy as well. He advised me NOT to buy his product based on the goals I was trying to achieve. Ie, increase spl as much as possible to the ear and meter. Not every business man will tell you what you need to hear, instead of what you want to hear.

Don't use Second skin, buy from Don at SDS. (link in my sig) Better bang for the buck, in particular when advice is included. Rattles are different than deadening. Deadening only takes panel resonances out. If you have rattles you have to find them first. Usually some CCF in between the surfaces that are rubbing will solve those issues. And yes, it is very possible deadener will reduce your score...although it might improve it, depends on a lot of factors. Using CCF to kill the rattles won't hurt your score at all though.

Comparison threads are useless since most drivers cant be compared due to their goals they were designed around, DC Sound subs are geared more for SPL purposes (not saying they dont have some good sound quality as well) and SSA subs are geared more for SQ purposes (not saying they dont have good SPl or output). Thinking about trying a DCON. - SSA Car Audio Forum - Page 2 The only way to tell how they would compare would be to buy both sets of subs and install to find out, car audio is all about compromise and lots of testing (the only way to find things out in life).

go with the bls...especially with that much power...the qs will blow, they arnt meant to b loud, they are meant for sound quality.