active setup/processing help

[F3RR3T 1]

first off heres a diagram (all amps are sundown) team sundown ftmfw

i planned on using my rockford symmetry but...

anything car audio i consider myself very knowledgeable if im not in a area i will learn but... when it comes to processing i fail miserably

i need to have front/back left/right fade capabilities...

be able to control all crossover points...

be able to control it remotely (thats y i liked the rf 3sixty was the pda)but its not suited for what i need to do. <i quess i could run 2 of them maybe 2 3sixty.1's

if someone can make a diagram like mine except with the processing equipment included ill be glad to send 20 or 30 bucks (paypal) your way.

all what are some recommend mids,tweets and mid-bass's that can take 100rms at 4ohms.

budget for speakers is 800 900 for processing (keep in mind no one pays msrp)

also if this can be worked in i thought it was pretty neat.

http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/product....roduct_Id=14152

i would do it myself but frankly i don't have the time.

this is a 4-way system correct ? just verifying my terms

[///M5 2,833]

why so many drivers???

[F3RR3T 1]

why so many drivers???

4 door tahoe

with 2 night shade 15's that will be upgrade to 4 each on about 3500-4000 rms

[dem beats 1,223]

why so many drivers???

4 door tahoe

with 2 night shade 15's that will be upgrade to 4 each on about 3500-4000 rms

I think he was getting at the fact that with that many speakers you will have less sound quality than if you just went 3 way in each of the front doors. In most peoples eyes it is a waste of money because it will make the music sound worse with all those drivers.

It can certainly look cool, but if you are going for acurate music or to me good sounding music you wouldnt want all that. I usualy cut the speakers in the rear of the car even on factory as it may get louder, but I hear less of the intended sound, and unless it's some kind of bass unit it won't provide anything positive. Even in my expO I'm thinking about going active and ONLY powering the front doors. The second row speakers would take away from the joy of true stereo and would probably fudge up my imaging.

IMHO you could spend allot more on a GREAT set of 2 or even 3 way, go active and have much better output.

even worse than you average ground pounder style car, an SPL car with a bunch of tweeters and mids with no low end really piss me off. I can understand bass, but why anyone would want to sent 160 DBS worth of 15000hz at their mellon.. well. I would rather get hit with a baseball bat.

If you're doing if for the coolness factor or to show off you custome glass and install skills, rock on. If you care about SQ or IMHO SPL you could spend your $$ in much much much better ways than just a bunch of speakers.

[todd.brust 29]

what he said ^

[F3RR3T 1]

i figured it out just going to go with 2 360.2's

[johnecon2001 82]

Asking for advice then using none of it is a no-no here.

[todd.brust 29]

Asking for advice then using none of it is a no-no here.

lol yeah i've seen that here...not to go off topic, but whatever happened to the guy with the mini cooper?

[F3RR3T 1]

Asking for advice then using none of it is a no-no here.

well sry for getting to rf 3sixty.2 at dealer price. not sure on drivers i may lose one and do a three way

Edited December 14, 2007 by F3RR3T

[///M5 2,833]

Lose a lot, your originally plan makes no sense. First off even if it made sense to have multiple drivers playing the same frequency range (which it doesnt') you still wouldn't need as many tweeters as midbasses. Integration and installation is the most important part and it looks to me like you are into quantity over quality which is really too bad.

[F3RR3T 1]

Lose a lot, your originally plan makes no sense. First off even if it made sense to have multiple drivers playing the same frequency range (which it doesnt') you still wouldn't need as many tweeters as midbasses. Integration and installation is the most important part and it looks to me like you are into quantity over quality which is really too bad.

i have three rows of passengers getting rid of alot of drivers makes no sense. pure sq system is not what im going for. if that was my goal i would not go with daily/spl sub.

my original plan was to have 2 drivers per door tweets in the a and b pillars.

idk where you get the idea that i have drivers playing the same frequency range unless you are talking about the one driver in each door will be playing. the mids and tweets have about a 1500 hz overlap

and the mid and mid bass have about 300hz.

[buickid 0]

Keep

It

Simple

Stupid

Edited December 14, 2007 by SteveSan

[Adrian_D 520]

there are multiple drivers playing the same frequencies : 4 mid-basses, 4 mid's, 4 tweeters and a set of components.

will you have passengers on all rows all the time ?

it's not pure sq the guys are talking about. it's getting something to sound good.

are you building some sort of show car ? or just a loud daily driver ?

[F3RR3T 1]

i will have a bout 6-7 people in my truck 80% o the time. (its me and all my moto-x buddies)

this is a show/comp car also so loud is a must. sq is out for me seeing that i cant here in my right ear so..

[Adrian_D 520]

maybe you can't hear in your right ear.

and obnoxiously loud music isn't going to help your left ear.

sorry if i'm sound rough but considering your condition i'd really take a bit of care with music.

ok, back to the sound problem.

what's wrong with having multiple sources playing the same frequency is interference (not talking about bass because of the huge wavelengths involved). each source interferes with the other in a diffrent way at your ear because the distances aren't the same. and that means clarity will go out the window.

whole lot diffrent compared to running a single, more powerful, more efficient source. at the very least i'd source some very efficient tweeters and use only 2 up front.

don't start the "i don't want sq" theme. if you want loud and really don't care about a tiny bit of clarity, play pink noise and forget about music.

[F3RR3T 1]

ok seeing that i have the wrong idea going here.

would yall be willing to enlighten me about what would sound good in an off-axis setup. i would like to keep 1 driver per door do to my number of passengers and the "show factor"

[Adrian_D 520]

I was thinking you could run a single processor and 1 set of speakers per door (ditch the passives), but that wouldn't allow you to control front / rear volume.

[johnecon2001 82]

As far as speaker setup goes, I would keep the active 3-ways in the front since you seem pretty set on that.

For the Passenger doors and the rear speakers, just do some Coaxial speakers. I'd connect the rear four together and set it up so you can turn them off or down if you're the only one in the car.

[F3RR3T 1]

i like that idea and would leave more budget for the front 3 ways.

3 way active in the rear 2 way active comps in the rear (that can be turned off when im by myself)

or seeing that i already have my amps do the 3 ways in all 4 doors as i was going to do originally but put them on a relay so they can be turned off and on.

i think im going to re evaluate my whole system plan

[///M5 2,833]

3 ways everywhere will be a HUGE mess. It will be super destructive to your sound stage but more importantly to your frequency response. No rears is the best option, but if you are somehow convinced otherwise make sure that the rears can be turned off. They are really a waste of money no matter what the purpose.

[Adrian_D 520]

i like that idea and would leave more budget for the front 3 ways.

3 way active in the rear 2 way active comps in the rear (that can be turned off when im by myself)

or seeing that i already have my amps do the 3 ways in all 4 doors as i was going to do originally but put them on a relay so they can be turned off and on.

i think im going to re evaluate my whole system plan

A set of comps in the rear, that you can turn off when you have no passengers in the rear sounds like a much better idea

[F3RR3T 1]

hmm so active 3 ways up front. and some active 2 ways in the rear that can be turned off sounds alot better to me.

i have some old bass shakers that i could run off the extra 2 channels lmao <i have no clue though.

any one have any recommendations for drivers. i was thinking like a 6.5-8 inch mid-bass 4-5.25 mid and then the tweeter.

next question i did not order the rf 3sixty's yet.

i already have a rf symmetry on hand but i dont think itll do what i want when to rf 3sixty.2's will

[johnecon2001 82]

Why are you still going active in the rear?

Passive in the rear = easier

[Adrian_D 520]

Why are you still going active in the rear?

Passive in the rear = easier

x2. go passives for ease of setting up.

Not so sure about how useful the bass shakers are when you will be running 2 (or 4) 15's

[F3RR3T 1]

because the channels of my amps will already be setup for active from the processing. so i mine as well just do active in the rear.