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Lucky 76

Chris' Wall Build in the Aviator vids p.35

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do you have quite a bit of torque on all the nuts holding the all-thread?

don't want them to loosen over time from vibration.

build is almost there.

hope to see vids soon.

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don't forget to use lock-tight on those nuts!!! lol!

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the slits were recommended to allow a plug to easily slide into the top and rest there.

IF you can use an alternate method in plugging it then that's fine.

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the slits were recommended to allow a plug to easily slide into the top and rest there.

IF you can use an alternate method in plugging it then that's fine.

I think you misunderstood what I wrote. If you look at the pictures I took you can see that the top baffle is actually a double baffle and the bottom baffle is a single baffle. I did not attach the slits yet. Is this fine if the top baffle is double? It should not matter correct? The subs still have adequate room if you look at the pictures.

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this pic right here-

IMG_0695.jpg

The top part of the port is suppose to be double layered BUT... the inner layer of the port is suppose to have slits cut out so a plug can slide in there and rest inside of the slits.

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Does that mean it was supposed to be shifted over 3/4" or does that mean that I was supposed to just add another strip ontop of the double baffle?

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that means the inner layer in the port that's in there now needs those slits.

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So I don't need to take the port out again right? I can just screw some slits on correct?

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no, not screw, cut the existing inner top port . thats the one that suppose to have the slits alreeady cut in it

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no, not screw, cut the existing inner top port . thats the one that suppose to have the slits alreeady cut in it

I know but everything is in right now and we would have to shift the port over another 3/4" for that to work. The port is flush right now with the front baffle.

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flush with the baffle has nothing to do with it.

the inner wall on the top part of the port should have never been 1 piece per side.

It should have been cut in pieces and only about 50% of those pieces glued on.

That gives the port wall gaps...

The port plug was suppose to get those pieces you didn't attach to the port wall so the port plug could literally slide into the top port section filling the gaps that were left out...

So.. since that isn't done u can think up somethin, just don't shrink the port area.

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I was thinking of something that we could actually bolt onto the front baffle and it would plug the whole top of the port.

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yes but i'm pretty sure u will also need to block the top part inside the box too...

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ya I was thinking a box thats just a bit smaller than the inside of the port so it can slide in, then there will be a flange on the front with bolt holes and a type of weather stripping so its a tight seal.

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I will give you til Sunday afternoon to get this thing playin!

You know i was thinkin.. i got over a month of vacation time.

If you can pick a good time for me to come up there, i will to hang out and check out the design.

It'll prob be sometime around summer though cuz there's lots of comps around here between now and june.

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I will give you til Sunday afternoon to get this thing playin!

You know i was thinkin.. i got over a month of vacation time.

If you can pick a good time for me to come up there, i will to hang out and check out the design.

It'll prob be sometime around summer though cuz there's lots of comps around here between now and june.

you got till sunday :lol2:

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Hopefully it'll be sound worthy tonight :peepwall: and ya when we get closer to the summer we will have to arrange something.

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Well today was a sad day.....Everything is done, except some one who shall remain nameless, forgot to buy a couple rcas..... Everything else is ready. Pics will come soon most likely.

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Well today was a sad day.....Everything is done, except some one who shall remain nameless, forgot to buy a couple rcas..... Everything else is ready. Pics will come soon most likely.

bummer :peepwall:

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lol, wonder how many weeks it's gonna take to get some, haha.

Tell him he better go buy em locally.

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lol, wonder how many weeks it's gonna take to get some, haha.

Tell him he better go buy em locally.

Debating on whether to buy MLX-100 or just get the y-adapters needed. Either way it is going to be two weeks because I am staying up at college this weekend to study for exams. I know it sucks =(

Has anyone had experience with the MLX-100? Is it worth the $80 or should I just get the y adapters? The only thing I will be using it for is it to take the outputs from the 3sixty.2 as an input on the mlx and have it send out 4 outputs to the saz1500s.

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i personally only see it useful for competition purposes.

Just get u a dmm and make sure all amps are set the same.

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