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First Looks: RL-s12 & RL-s15 LMT's

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hmm 2 rl-s12's one orion 2500d.....bandpass box tuned at 60hz....for some reason i'm not seeing double..i'm seeing 150's

80

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about time ive waited long enough for this to come out

what happend to the 2ohm coil

i think i may go for a stereo amp and bridge it to get to that power :D

i wonder if ill be the first in the UK to own one :D

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hmm 2 rl-s12's one orion 2500d.....bandpass box tuned at 60hz....for some reason i'm not seeing double..i'm seeing 150's

80

You're not understanding the concept of this woofer. It seems as though it has been skewed by those who do not have first hand experience but base their opinions strictly on assumptions, which is dangerous.

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um lets see....it has a very high xmax....it can handle 1000 + watts....i can put it in a bandpass which at certain freq can peak its azz off.....being that i know how 2 design a box that will knock your head off....i dont see why i cant hit 150....i'm making 2 boxes one for spl and one for LSQ

i'm only putting 1250 on each of them..so i should have my subs for a long time( i watch my gains)

80

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hmm 2 rl-s12's one orion 2500d.....bandpass box tuned at 60hz....for some reason i'm not seeing double..i'm seeing 150's

80

You're not understanding the concept of this woofer. It seems as though it has been skewed by those who do not have first hand experience but base their opinions strictly on assumptions, which is dangerous.

enlighten us.

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His point is that high xmax and power handling have not a whole lot to do with output.

Take a look at the old stroker, barely moves and gets loud as hell.

Take a look at the W7, moves a fark ton and does nothing.

There is a whole ton of science dealing with the motor of a subwoofer. More so than a lot of people will ever realize. If you ever see a subwoofer boasting LMT, Dual Gap, XBL etc. It is almost best to assume they are not meant to get loud. Regardless of the high xmax biproduct -- there will be woofers that get much louder with less.

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ok i understand that the rl-s is suppose to be a LSQ woofer....but to my understanding if a sub has a high qts and a low fs and a decent xmax..correct me if i'm wrong but its sounds suitable for a bandpass box

80

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epicenter= bass boost in it's most basic explaination=why would u use one?

and i say let 80 build his box..it's his money. (even in using hte epicenter) i'm of the opinion that it will be a fartbox as well, but if to his ears it isn't..great!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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epicenter= bass boost in it's most basic explaination=why would u use one?

and i say let 80 build his box..it's his money. (even in using hte epicenter) i'm of the opinion that it will be a fartbox as well, but if to his ears it isn't..great!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

I agree completely, a 60 hz bandpass will be extremely peaky, and the roll off will rape the LFE that is the entire point of this driver... and the epicenter will not do anything to counteract that.

But if that's what he want's to do, that's what he'll do.

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epicenter= bass boost in it's most basic explaination=why would u use one?

and i say let 80 build his box..it's his money. (even in using hte epicenter) i'm of the opinion that it will be a fartbox as well, but if to his ears it isn't..great!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

epicenter= bass boost in it's most basic explaination=why would u use one?

and i say let 80 build his box..it's his money. (even in using hte epicenter) i'm of the opinion that it will be a fartbox as well, but if to his ears it isn't..great!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

I agree completely, a 60 hz bandpass will be extremely peaky, and the roll off will rape the LFE that is the entire point of this driver... and the epicenter will not do anything to counteract that.

But if that's what he want's to do, that's what he'll do.

AND THIS IS WHY I LIKE U2 GUYS . :+1::woot: ..U TOOK THE WORD RITE OUT OF MY MOUTH

I CAN DESIGN SOMETHING THATS NOT PEAKY OR EVEN TUNED IN THE LOW 20'S..ITS NOT A PROBLEM....BUT AS I SAID EARLIER..I'M MAKING 2 BOXES..

80

R WE RELATED OR SOMETHING?

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what happend to the 2ohm coil

Yea, it's a bummer about the 2ohm coil not coming through. slantedsmile.gif

It certainly was intended to come in at a much lower DCR, but after passing on two batches of coils that were smaller than we needed, the last one turned out to be right on spec with the exception of a higher DCR than we had hoped for. I can't make any promises, as this may be a manufacturing limitation with our current coil producer in Florida, but I will be working to have future production feature a lower DCR if possible.

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what happend to the 2ohm coil

Yea, it's a bummer about the 2ohm coil not coming through. slantedsmile.gif

It certainly was intended to come in at a much lower DCR, but after passing on two batches of coils that were smaller than we needed, the last one turned out to be right on spec with the exception of a higher DCR than we had hoped for. I can't make any promises, as this may be a manufacturing limitation with our current coil producer in Florida, but I will be working to have future production feature a lower DCR if possible.

3.5 ohm is ok but just takes more time to source an amp

can we have a vid playing 20hz free air i want to see it properly wobble :slayer:

any pics of it next to an rlp would be good to

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u know....now that i think about it......with the 3.5ohm coils..getting a amp that puts out decent power @ either 2 or 4ohms shouldnt that be less stress full on the cars electrical...instead of running 1 and .5ohm loads and using a shiit load of current..

80

just a thought

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u know....now that i think about it......with the 3.5ohm coils..getting a amp that puts out decent power @ either 2 or 4ohms shouldnt that be less stress full on the cars electrical...instead of running 1 and .5ohm loads and using a shiit load of current..

80

just a thought

Not inherently.

It's the amplifiers efficiency that determines power consumption, not the output impedance. And no, just because an amp makes it's power into 4ohm it doesn't mean it will be more efficient than an amp that makes it's power at 1ohm.

Most amps that make that power @ that high of an impedance (4ohm) are going to be class A/B, which are super mondo inefficient at close to anything less than full power output. 1/3 power (actual output power...like normal listening level w/ music), most A/B amps are in the 30-40% efficiency range, where a class D will probably be in the 60-70% range (rough estimate).

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u know....now that i think about it......with the 3.5ohm coils..getting a amp that puts out decent power @ either 2 or 4ohms shouldnt that be less stress full on the cars electrical...instead of running 1 and .5ohm loads and using a shiit load of current..

80

just a thought

Not inherently.

It's the amplifiers efficiency that determines power consumption, not the output impedance. And no, just because an amp makes it's power into 4ohm it doesn't mean it will be more efficient than an amp that makes it's power at 1ohm.

Most amps that make that power @ that high of an impedance are going to be class A/B, which are super mondo inefficient at close to anything less than full power output. 1/3 power (actual output power...like normal listening level w/ music), most A/B amps are in the 30-40% efficiency range, where a class D will probably be in the 60-70% range (rough estimate).

true..

but if a person bought a regulated amp, like the jl or pe, that make their power at multipule impedences, the current draw at 4 ohm is less stressful then the current draw at 1ohm.

also, one could get, say an orion 2500d, it does 1200wrms @4ohm. and i know from experience it doesn't even begin to draw hardly any current there, especially compared to my beloved memphis st1000d. roughly the same power (orion at 4ohm, memphis at 1)yet the orion didn't budge my lights and the memphis could dim them pretty good.

but it is application dependant. and finding an amp, [unless one bought pairs of subs, in which case a 2 ohm mono amp (or even a 1ohm mono) would be an easy find] is going to be the hard part.

i've got it covered on my end though...

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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well lets just say..I havent been here in awile..yes mabey once or twice but have been waitnig for these puppys to come out and FINALLY :D it looks amazing..and I love the vid.. nice work mike

worth the wait IMO ;)

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hmm 2 rl-s12's one orion 2500d.....bandpass box tuned at 60hz....for some reason i'm not seeing double..i'm seeing 150's

80

You're not understanding the concept of this woofer. It seems as though it has been skewed by those who do not have first hand experience but base their opinions strictly on assumptions, which is dangerous.

enlighten us.

That situation has many things going against you, which you are not taking into consideration. First off, the coil is incredibly heavy hindering your efficiency. Yes it does have the BL to move the coil plenty but just not even figures close to those of actual SPL drivers. Yes you do have tons of power handling but thats to move that big damn coil (and god awfully big suspension) and to achieve xmax. As it has been proven in the past xmax doesn't have a whole lot to do with the driver's SPL. Hopefully you are taking into consideration that xmax is a linear term. DD, RE, and all the other big names are mainly doing their numbers with their woofers in the non-linear range far from what you would consider normal operating situations. It's main focus is to keep BL at a constant high level. Also, what I refer to inductive rolloff will occur at a much lower frequency than actual SPL drivers as well. You're talking rolloff in the 60hz range, although that range with the specified inductance may be strong. Low Fs does not equate to high SPL either, from my understanding and experience it just means that a woofer with an Fs of 22hz will reproduce the lower frequencies easier than a woofer with say a 45hz Fs. Generally speaking, speakers with higher resonant frequencies are more commonly used in the SPL game.

In conclusion, the speaker can handle a to of power but inefficiency and inductance will keep it from being a highly sought after SPL driver but an excellent "LSQ" (how that term exists i'll never know) driver. You are acting as though the XMAX and power handling just instantly mean they are going to be incredibly loud. Yes they do get loud, but so does almost every other woofer out there too. IMO it's just about how good it sounds while it's reproducing the music at such SPL levels. Yes you would be able to do an SPL box, but would it even do 150 or compete with the big guys? No offense but 2500watts is also pretty measley to be trying to do a 150 on a TL. You could do 140's no prob, but 150 is another story. It is an SQ driver and thats what it excels at.

If I have either presented false information or misconstrued something then please let me know and I will stand corrected. I am more than willing to admit when I am wrong.

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1000W @4ohms for HT duty....prob looking at a good $1000+ for an amp

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Will this sub make an awesome HT sub?

Now of course it'll be different for everyone - but when I think of the RL-s, my FIRST thought is home theater since this driver has the capability to withold all of its supreme ( :D ) sound quality at very high output levels. I'm using a Behringer EP2500 amp that will output 2500 watts @ 4ohms bridged (or two channels of 1250 @ 2ohms), along with a Behringer crossover deck for the subwoofer line - for a combined price of less than $400 and let me tell you it sure does the trick damn well!

Of course this driver is also suitable for car audio use by all means - but the reason why I personally would not opt to put one of these in my car is simply because of the requisite for massive power, lots of space, and the weight of the damn thing. I have no desire to go deaf in my car, and a couple 8's in my ride will have me grinning like an idiot no problem anyway! :P

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interesting mike....

i might test it in my home be4 it go's in my car...i have a 1100watts @4ohm crown amp i want to see what it does

80

i put a 10w3 in a ported box tuned at 29hz with 600watts going to it and it shook everything in someone elses apartment.

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i wish i had the power to put one of these suckers in my house. maybe ill run really long wires out the wnidow and watch a movie to test the LFE capabilities...

LOL.

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