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The BL 15' fully loaded power handling

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What's up folks I'm about to buy 2 Fi Bl 15's fully loaded I'm wanting to know whats the most power they can handle daily because I have a Memphis mojo 4000 & I personally don't like just doing rms power that's why I chose this subwoofer & not the btl series. Your responses are greatly appreciated.

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i personaly found that 1200 watts or so on my old fully loaded bl's was about as much as i could throw at them in my box daily..

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"don't like just doing RMS power." Why not? That's why they are rated there. More power can damage the driver more easily. Headroom is nice, but there becomes a point of overkill. Besides, are you going to clamp the amp to see how much it's actually putting out? If not, any answer here is meaningless. It doesn't matter if we tell you 1000 watts or 1500 watts, you won't know what your amp is actually putting out anyways.

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If you have to ask ........................power it with something that puts out something close to rms

powerhandling is boxsize , tuning and amp setting dependent so if anyone would give you a figure it would not neccesesarily apply to your application

that and what KU40 said

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So let me get this right....

Your actually buying the BL series instead of the BTL series just so you could run your subs over their rms rating? :trippy:

Either buy the BTL series and run the 4K amp or buy the BL series, sell the 4K and buy a solid 2K (AQ2200D would be a great choice). Just my $.02.

As stated above, if you have to ask how much power they can take then the answer is rms.

Edited by PHATBOi

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What's up folks I'm about to buy 2 Fi Bl 15's fully loaded I'm wanting to know whats the most power they can handle daily because I have a Memphis mojo 4000 & I personally don't like just doing rms power that's why I chose this subwoofer & not the btl series. Your responses are greatly appreciated.

If you have to ask then you dont know about speakers distortion or tolerances or limits. Throw power at them till you notice any of those signs of stress from your subs. Since this is your philosophy and you live by this code then why would you ask this if you been doing it for this long without any problems. RMS ratings are there to help protect the sub, just dont be upset if you need recones soon. Music is dynamic so those subs wont see all 2000 rms every second of every minute, just keep and eye out for subs and your box plays a role into power levels as well (smaller boxes helps subs take more power).

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Well the reason why I ask this is because I've always over powered subs since I've started playing with them & it always worked out fine except for one set & I hear other cats saying how they put 6k on btl fully loaded on daily set ups & I've put 3k on kicker cvx 15s they never burned & I hear the bl 15s are more beefier than those then they say if you get it fully loaded it can handle more power that's why I asked what could they really handle because the site dosent say how much more can they handle if it's fully loaded this is the reason I was looking for someone who had some experience with that paticular sub

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numbers dont matter. if you have done it before and it works, keep doing what you do. What is the point in asking us? what are you going to gain?

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I am using my friends 15" fully loaded BL right now in a box that is almost 3.5 cubes tuned to 32 hz. I am running and Sundown 2500 to it with great electrical. I do notice on some songs that it is getting close to bottoming out so i turn my gain knob down. I am used to 18" subs with alot of power so its hard for me to control this 15" because i want it to be louder. I can tell you this... the BL does handle its own very well but its only as smart as you. aslong as you control your gain's and you watch the sub and check for stress like others already said then you should be fine. the smaller the box the longer it takes for your woofer to reach max limit's

good luck bro!! :drink40:

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Yes thermally they will take more power but you gotta remember all subs dont fail from thermal failure, some fail because of mechanical failure as well so its not always can they take the power thermally. It will boil down to enclosure and how you play your sytem, your electrical as well. Set your gains correctly and be smart with the volume on your headunit, remember you have to worry about thermal and mechanical problems when it comes to running more than rms to a subwoofer. If done correctly then yes it can be successful.

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Yes thermally they will take more power but you gotta remember all subs dont fail from thermal failure, some fail because of mechanical failure as well so its not always can they take the power thermally. It will boil down to enclosure and how you play your sytem, your electrical as well. Set your gains correctly and be smart with the volume on your headunit, remember you have to worry about thermal and mechanical problems when it comes to running more than rms to a subwoofer. If done correctly then yes it can be successful.

^^^^^^ :werd_msword: jay-cee is dead on!

for example... My last build i was running an 18" Ascandent Audio Mayhem D1 on 2X Sundown 2000D's strapped at 1 ohm each in a 7.5 cube box tuned to 33 hz. I had no issue running that sub way more then the maxx RMS. I was getting meter and i was using my BURP setting and it was all good no issues, when i was done testing i forgot to turn my gains down back to the daily setting then i started to play some music and in less then 10 seconds it went good bye :(

My spl and daily settings where not even much of a diffrence maybe a small sliver more was my spl settings. It gets risky just be smart!

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You guys have got to be kidding me. This guy asks a question and gets flames when he's obviously stating that he isn't a know it all so why the hate? You guys are whooping about power but what about impedence rise? Did anyone ask about his electrical and consider voltage drops? Nah y do tht. That may actually help someone right. If you're not here to help someone then what are you here for? My bad I forgot you guys have always known everything

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You guys have got to be kidding me. This guy asks a question and gets flames when he's obviously stating that he isn't a know it all so why the hate? You guys are whooping about power but what about impedence rise? Did anyone ask about his electrical and consider voltage drops? Nah y do tht. That may actually help someone right. If you're not here to help someone then what are you here for? My bad I forgot you guys have always known everything

I don't think any of us are trying to "flame" him or whoop on him or claim to be know it all's. everyone has there own way of helping out and advice. Why didn't you ask him about his voltage drop and impedence rise? you are telling us we should of asked him that when you could of asked him instead of trying to pointe your figure at people or start an arguement. :fing34:

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Man some of you guys who replied to my questions it just flew over y'all heads I was simply asking how much did this woofer do if it fully loaded. If you would look on the website you would see that if the woofer is fully loaded it would handle more power that's why they have those options if it was meant to just handle 1000 rms then why would you pay more money to get a fully loaded woofer from these guys but only be able to play rms power on the sub it don't make sense. I only see a couple of guys who actually even had experience with the subs & those were the people I was actually looking for the rest of the responses I really didn't need because I'm not a beginner to the sub game & I know how the game go Im just not familiar with that paticular sub. I appreciate the people who actually gave me something to go on..... Thanx

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Well I'm close friends with him so why ask ask a question to which I already know the answer. I know all of these variables. If u weren't tryin to flame him then my reply was not for you. But if the shoe fits wear it. This thread was made for those who have owned these subs to post about their experiences with the power handling if a particular sub. Anything else child please.

that is all

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I have a fully loaded BL 15 and I run a Sundown 2000 at half an ohm. It gets stressed during comps but during daily if your careful it will handle it if you watch for signs of stress. Mine is in a 4 cube box also.

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Fi:

Tech.BL

The BL line is pretty much a lower power alternative to a BTL or a higher power alternative to the Q series of woofers. This is more of a street jamming type woofer that “fills the gap” if you will between these two series of subs. Keep in mind this is what we recommend, this is NOT what you have to do.

Available options and what they do:

P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. We recommend at the bare minimum to get this option if you choose this series of woofers.

Hyper Pole: This is an extended version of the standard P Chamfer. It has 1.250” more pole and chamfer resulting in an increased compression ratio for better cooling.

Cooling: Self explanatory, the cooling channels are machined into the inside of the sub to help cool the coil FAR better. But there are some things that you sacrifice. There is less metal inside of the motor so it is a little weaker. If you are looking for a tone/burp only scenario for SPL we suggest that you do NOT get this option. Stick with only the P chamfer or Hyper Pole. Now if you are looking for a daily sub to beat on and you have less then 2000 watts then this is the option for you. 2000+ watts you need to look into the BTL series

Flatwind: The flatwire coil option simply helps the power handling of the sub. The coil has more surface area to dissipate heat and will take more power then the regular round wire coil that comes in the ‘stock’ version of the sub. If you are looking to do an SPL install we highly recommend that you use choose the flatwound coil option. In testing it is louder then the regular roundwire coil and takes the thermal abuse much better.

SPL: Simply put, if you plan on listening to any type of music you MUST choose the daily option. If it is strictly for a tone only scenario then choose the SPL option. The reason we have these options is the gap tolerances between the two are different. The gap in the SPL woofer is much tighter and FAR less forgiving in comparison to the Daily option. The Daily option simply gives the coil more wiggle room inside of the gap to deal with the non-linearity tendencies that you can get into when you are using a sub in a daily driving scenario. Typically SPL applications deal with 1 note and it does not change, therefore we can make the gap much tighter and get all of the motor strength that we can out of it.

Extreme Lead: Is normally only chosen for high power applications. It adds an extra set of leadwires to the pack and helps in higher current applications. There is no problem in using it for daily, other than it normally isn’t required given the normal power used.

Universal: This option gives you the choice to later chance the impedence of your voice coils. You can change from dual 2’s to dual 1’s and vice versa by reconing them. If you do not choose this option your motor(s) will be optimized per the coil resistance that you have chosen. (Dual 2’s will forever be a dual 2 motor, Dual 1 will forever be a Dual 1 motor).

First off we do not recommend using a sealed box for any of the BL or BTL series of woofers

Enclosures:BL 10 – Ported box we recommend using .5-1.2 cubic feet from 30-37Hz tuning with ~15 square inches of vent. (IMO 33hz tuning daily driving is optimal)

BL 12 – Ported box we recommend using 1.8-2.5 cubic feet @ 30-37Hz (I personally think that a 33hz tuning is optimal, and has the most output and is still the most musical daily driving). Use 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume.

BL 15 – Ported box we recommend using 2.8-4 cubic feet @ 28-37Hz. Again use 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume.

BL 18 – Ported box we recommend using 5-10 cubic feet @ 30-37Hz tuning, you can tune a little higher if you wish but we recommend keeping it close to 33hz for a daily driver. Again the same 12-16 square inches of volume applies per cubic foot of volume.

Looks to me like Fi recomends 2000 and under. Reading is a wonderful thing. :fing34:

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Im not going to entertain the butt hurt at all.

OP asking a blatant question with know information at all is not how you go about doing it on this forum, read the new member posting guidelines and go from there. Your question was simple and did not include valuable information at all to help give you a good answer. Big Jon gave you answer of 1200 rms but that all was install dependent, the sub takes 1000 watts standard and with the bl option added it gives you an extra 200-500 (maybe depending on install). Give more information on box size and tuning and any other information you can so we can help best answer your question. But to answer your question about how much extra power it can handle is all install dependent (box, tuning, impedence rise, your listening habits, and so on will play a role). Hope that helps, remember there is no problem with headroom and music is dynamic so like I said above it can be successfully if done right.

To the OP's friend yes a good electrical will play a role in powering his amp but it will not have anything to do with him running double the rms to the subwoofer. I didnt comment on his electrical since he didnt ask will his system hold up well, he asked how much extra power they could handle. Second of all you dont count on impedence rise unless your competing (not important in a daily system since you cant control it). Read this:

Why "daily" systems should not count on impedance rise - SSA Car Audio Forum

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Why not get the BTL? If it's money well then so be it, but to buy a mid level sub just so you can throw a ton of power at it for shit and giggles is dumb.

Oh and since your boyfriend knows your independence rise, electrical, etc. get him to help you ask questions correctly so you can get some real help.

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You guys have got to be kidding me. This guy asks a question and gets flames when he's obviously stating that he isn't a know it all so why the hate? You guys are whooping about power but what about impedence rise? Did anyone ask about his electrical and consider voltage drops? Nah y do tht. That may actually help someone right. If you're not here to help someone then what are you here for? My bad I forgot you guys have always known everything

However, instead of using a sine wave input signal, we used a square wave. The reason for this is that square waves consist of a large amount of sine waves, as does music. The square wave is of course not an equivalent of music, but for this test it was an easy way of showing that a complex signal (not just a simple sine wave signal) may make the load, from the amplifier point of view, very low.

If you study the graph resulting from the test, you will probably agree that not only is it necessary to check the amplifier’s behavior for resistive, capacitive and inductive loads – the amplifier should also be checked for loads with lower impedance than the nominal impedance of the loudspeaker.

This proves to be very important, since a loudspeaker with a nominal impedance of 4 ohms will sometimes have an actual impedance of 1 ohm or less. The PowerCube helps you perform testing of an amplifier, taking all these load attributes into consideration. "

And we do know.. we know a lot...

Man some of you guys who replied to my questions it just flew over y'all heads I was simply asking how much did this woofer do if it fully loaded. If you would look on the website you would see that if the woofer is fully loaded it would handle more power that's why they have those options if it was meant to just handle 1000 rms then why would you pay more money to get a fully loaded woofer from these guys but only be able to play rms power on the sub it don't make sense. I only see a couple of guys who actually even had experience with the subs & those were the people I was actually looking for the rest of the responses I really didn't need because I'm not a beginner to the sub game & I know how the game go Im just not familiar with that paticular sub. I appreciate the people who actually gave me something to go on..... Thanx

The BL can handle up to 1500 watts.. Period for daily, Those people, if not all of them were either burping them or having them in small enclosures, if you want to run 432049234324093284 watts on them you can... YOU need to be conservative with the Gain and volume. DO NOT USE BASS BOOST. It's all dependant on you, if you really have 4,000 watts to play with, you'd be better off with a pair of BTL's or multiple BL's.

Well I'm close friends with him so why ask ask a question to which I already know the answer. I know all of these variables. If u weren't tryin to flame him then my reply was not for you. But if the shoe fits wear it. This thread was made for those who have owned these subs to post about their experiences with the power handling if a particular sub. Anything else child please.

that is all

We we're not flaming as Jaycee said so eloquently "OP asking a blatant question with know information at all is not how you go about doing it on this forum, read the new member posting guidelines and go from there. Your question was simple and did not include valuable information at all to help give you a good answer. Big Jon gave you answer of 1200 rms but that all was install dependent, the sub takes 1000 watts standard and with the bl option added it gives you an extra 200-500 (maybe depending on install). Give more information on box size and tuning and any other information you can so we can help best answer your question. But to answer your question about how much extra power it can handle is all install dependent (box, tuning, impedence rise, your listening habits, and so on will play a role). Hope that helps, remember there is no problem with headroom and music is dynamic so like I said above it can be successfully if done right."

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What he said^

:werd_msword:

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Here you go!!!!

Cooling: Self explanatory, the cooling channels are machined into the inside of the sub to help cool the coil FAR better. But there are some things that you sacrifice. There is less metal inside of the motor so it is a little weaker. If you are looking for a fart/burp only scenario for SPL we suggest that you do NOT get this option. Stick with only the P chamfer. Now if you are looking for a daily sub to beat on and you have less then 2000 watts then this is the option for you. 2000+ watts you need to look into the BTL series.

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it's a stair step gentleman..

the stock one is rated at 1000...options add from there

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Man some of you cats on hear act like broads with their skirts up some of y'all seem to get upset about nothing I don't need to explain again how I just asked 1 simple question on a sub woofer if you felt I didn't give enough information for you to answer the question all you had to do was ask instead of all of these sideways responses. Then to add insult to injury the majority of y'all never even owned this woofer. I see three people who actually used them & that's Kawonu,Big Jon, & Hove. These guys I'd like to give thanks for comming forward & helping me out because what y'all told me really helped me out alot, the rest of y'all pull ya skirt down it's only a forum IT IS NOT THAT SERIOUS!!!!!

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Man some of you cats on hear act like broads with their skirts up some of y'all seem to get upset about nothing I don't need to explain again how I just asked 1 simple question on a sub woofer if you felt I didn't give enough information for you to answer the question all you had to do was ask instead of all of these sideways responses. Then to add insult to injury the majority of y'all never even owned this woofer. I see three people who actually used them & that's Kawonu,Big Jon, & Hove. These guys I'd like to give thanks for comming forward & helping me out because what y'all told me really helped me out alot, the rest of y'all pull ya skirt down it's only a forum IT IS NOT THAT SERIOUS!!!!!

Yah bruh u right we dont know shit, we shud stop bein bitchs ya diggg

:trippy:

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