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BavarianBeast

Best midbass for ft1-se?

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its not in the doors its the kick panel so they have there own little sealed box idk the volume tho , and yes i did put sounddeading in and around the kickpanel

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That is quite possibly part of your problem.

Most car audio mids are designed to be used infinite baffle in a door, putting them in a small sealed enclosure is going to potentially suffocate them and kill the midbass response.

You need to determine how much airspace you have in there. What I've done in the past is create an opening in the rear of the kickpanel that mates to an opening in my kickpanel area that vented to the fender well....making my kickpanel an infinite baffle. Second option is to try cutting a hole in the back of the kickpanel and vent it into the carpet. This of course assumes you have some fiberglass skills to potentially fix anything that causes a negative instead of positive change.

You can see what I'm talking about in my build log for my old kicks:

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my system is just a daily set up, im looking for the best midbass im interested in sundown neo pro 8's , selenium 8's , crescendo pwx-8 .... If I could afford it I would get ScanSpeak revelator 7" . so basically im interested in the best budget midbass , and tweeters for around $300 together

None of those drivers will solve a midbass problem. The Scan Rev is the closest, but I wouldn't recommend it for in car.

Of course, I am not even sure that your definition of midbass and a normal one coincide.

One other clarification. A super tweeter with efficiency up the effin' wazoo will need MANY midranges to blend. That of course creates other issues, but it is flat out absurd to base buying a 2 way set off a super tweet.

You also should really really, really, really not use the crossover you have.

And as for what comp set for $250 will do better. First step is to fix the install. A poor install will always create issues.

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Ok so I'm thinking of ditching the 8" idea and using a 6.5" driver and doing what Implous said and vent the kick panel so I run IB . Most likely it will be a selenium 6w4p. so now my delemia is which tweeter and what crossover to use . I would run active but I think its out of my budget and knowledge to run it correctly. I think passive will suit me just fine, I just want to get a great setup the first time and not have to go through alot of different setups like I did with my subwoofer.

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Also How can I find how much air space I have in the kick panels , I tried searching online but I couldnt find any information about my car.

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Also How can I find how much air space I have in the kick panels , I tried searching online but I couldnt find any information about my car.

Fill them with rice, cat litter, etc, pour out, and measure.

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Ok so I'm thinking of ditching the 8" idea and using a 6.5" driver and doing what Implous said and vent the kick panel so I run IB . Most likely it will be a selenium 6w4p. so now my delemia is which tweeter and what crossover to use . I would run active but I think its out of my budget and knowledge to run it correctly. I think passive will suit me just fine, I just want to get a great setup the first time and not have to go through alot of different setups like I did with my subwoofer.

A 6w4p is a terrible "midbass" won't play shit down low. It's also a bad match for that tweeter. 91dB sensitivity doesn't match with "super" ever...unless you use more than a handful of them.

Running a super tweeter in a 2 way passive is NOT a good idea. You'll need some serious processing to even make it listenable. If you are stuck on passive you should just buy a component set.

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What do you Recommend for good midbass , my sub hits up to 80hz just fine but it gets verry quite at 100 hz so i need a good midbass setup to go from 90hz - around 2.5khz and then I need a good tweeter take the rest up

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What do you Recommend for good midbass , my sub hits up to 80hz just fine but it gets verry quite at 100 hz so i need a good midbass setup to go from 90hz - around 2.5khz and then I need a good tweeter take the rest up

"good" midbass and up to 2.5kHz would be 2 drivers

I was also looking at these tweeters http://www.madisound...m-dome-tweeter/

cause I heard good things about them on zaphaudio. I might just run active but I wont have any type of processing .

Be aware John's desires are completely different than yours so when you read his reviews remember that. IMO small format tweeters should ONLY be used when space is seriously a concern.

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I was also looking at these tweeters http://www.madisound...m-dome-tweeter/

cause I heard good things about them on zaphaudio. I might just run active but I wont have any type of processing .

If you don't have any way to adjust crossover points and slopes then you would be better off buying a component set.

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edit.

Edited by stefanhinote

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Ok so I'm thinking of ditching the 8" idea and using a 6.5" driver and doing what Implous said and vent the kick panel so I run IB . Most likely it will be a selenium 6w4p. so now my delemia is which tweeter and what crossover to use . I would run active but I think its out of my budget and knowledge to run it correctly. I think passive will suit me just fine, I just want to get a great setup the first time and not have to go through alot of different setups like I did with my subwoofer.

If midbass is your only problem, I wouldn't even look for new speakers until you fix the kickpanels. With a little more breathing room your current speakers might be capable of what you are after.

As M5 said, the 6W4P or anything similar isn't going to be worth a shit in the midbass.

And as Stefan said, you are not going to be able to mix-n-match speakers and run passive. If you are not going to go active (which I agree it's a good idea that you don't), then stick with a standard pre-built comp set.

But again, I would fix the install first and try your current speakers again. See if there is a positive change.

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I can adjust cross over points on the amp , but not slopes.

IMO amplifiers should NEVER be used to run speakers active. There is a lot more to getting something to sound reasonable than having a crossover. Plus if you don't have a bandpass option on the amplifier there is no way anything you are looking at for speakers will work at all.

You need to first fix your install and then weigh what it is worth to improve things and specifically address the weaknesses. Right now the install is the biggest weakness.

*there are amplifier exceptions for running active but they have digital processors in them

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Yea I know some zapco amps have digital prosscesors , so do you recomend that I just get a new fiberglass enclosure for my kick panels. or should I just run them in IB. ive never worked with fiberglass so I will have to take it to a car audio shop and idk what the price range should be for a fiberglass enclosure .

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Not trivial nor cheap if the E36 in your profile is the car you are describing. Even the 5.25's are rough since they are mounted "backwards" in those.

At the same time, if you are spending the money to build some kicks I wouldn't do it for 5.25" components. With minor walleye-rigging you can get a 6.5" in your kicks IB behind the factory panels but it requires some cutting and some patience.

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yea its the e36, and yea that was my original plan was to move up to 6.5" in the kicks and run them IB.

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I'd start by pulling off the kick cover and seeing what you are willing to do. You either get to cut up your kicks or the metal. In reality a bit of both works best.

As for getting an 8 down there, that is a bit of a pipe dream although of course if you are aggressive enough it could be possible.

In general that car is awful for speaker location. The trunk swallows bass, the kicks are teeny and making a real tweeter fit cosmetically isn't trivial either. With money anything is possible.

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I have seen a person on a fourm once put a 8" in his e36 kick panel and he just cut out a hole in the sheet metal, Yea the trunk swallows alot of bass but I have alot of sound deadening in the trunk and I removed my rear seats so my xcon hits pretty pucking hard especially since its in a 3.0 cubic feet box tuned to 30 hz by 2 4" aeroports.

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And he cut a bunch of metal. I had a 96 and decided that anything larger than a 6.5" was either going to require a serious amount of cutting or would impeded with precious foot room. Of course it may not be as precious to you since most M3 drivers don't wear a size 15.

Ultra hardcore waste to run that Scanspeak with a horn as well. I'd also rather see the driver side...

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I figured you were talking about Wallace's install. Keep in mind that is a custom shallow mount 8" midbass driver, it's less than 2" deep (Illusion ND8 frame & motor with IDQ8 softparts IIRC). Not to mention that's a pure midbass, it doesn't play anywhere into the midrange.....tucked up under that dash like that isn't going to work well for midrange playing into the midrange, and it doesn't look like there's enough room to drop it down much. And if you can't do that yourself, and install like that would end up pretty pricey.

But again, fix your install first and decide how much change still needs to be made before you spend any money.

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I can cut into metal fine, I even have a welder to fix anything I mess up , I Just never used fiberglass and prefer to stay away from it.

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The Precision Power Sedona amps have a Bandpass option that seems decent, really one of the better looking ones I could find while trying to find something for my Crescendo 8's and FT1's. Seem fairly inexpensive. I thought of running this for just my mids and running a bass blocker for the tweeters, and a hp filter from other amp on my 6.5's

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=23656&picture_id=407739

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