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Mark LaFountain

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I need some help. I've got a 2002 Chevrolet Trailblazer 4x4. It's always idled a little low every once in awhile, cycling from around 550 down to 400 and shaking a little, but only every once in awhile. Now it seems to do it often and it died while idling yesterday. I need to get it fixed. Any recommendations on what is happening? It's our only car.

Clean the throttle body. It is an electric TB, so be careful. Get a toothbrush and some carb cleaner. Remove the air inlet snorkel from the TB. Turn the key on with the engine off. Have someone step on the accelerator pedal and shoot the carb cleaner down the throttle body. Scrub the inside of the bore and as much of the plate as you can with the toothbrush. DO NOT STICK YOUR FINGERS IN IT!!! After a short period of time the throttle plates will close as a failsafe. It will rip your fingers off. Keep cleaning until it looks decent.

It is a common issue with electronic throttles. It may run like shit for a while, but give it 10 or 15 minutes, and it will be fine.

I'll find the gum cutter, and do this tomorrow at work. Thanks a ton man. What's the story on the juice too? I'm runnin' low. lol
It'll be a bit. I expect I should have some good working recipes in about a month. Supplies will be here by early next week, and I will be having to play with sweetness, tartness, and total amount of flavor based on nic levels. I may also do some playing with different atomizers, as I have found flavors to be different between varying types. A cart has a certain profile, a clearo a different profile, a rebuildable tank different yet again, and drippers with single and dual coils are different.

I just got a Trident, which is a dual coil dripper, and it is ridiculously tasty. HUGE clouds (the kind that will make a cigar fiend envious) and a ton of flavor. Where I have found my favorite juice right now could use some sweetness in a clearo, it needs nothing in the Trident. In fact, extra sweetener may make it perfumey.

So I am trying to decide if I want to do a "happy medium" or if I want to establish different lines for different attys.

What flavors and nic levels are you interested in?

I generally vape a fruit/menthol blend. Tons of different kinds, but usually somewhat similar. I was considering a dripper/rebuildable, but it seems such a hassle. Probably going to buy a Kanger Aerotank (dual coil for when I feel like high VG), and a simple eVic for easy adjustments. I know there are better battery mods, but the eVic is nice and simple with nice features.

I was considering a "cool raspberry", "cool blackberry", "cool strawberry" and "cool blueberry". If you are interested, I will be sure to send some your way. I am going all 50/50 (PG/VG), so options on the PG/VG are not happening right at this moment. I'll send you a couple bottles for the shipping cost just so you can try it and get the word out.

I am also doing a couple cotton candy flavors. I'll shoot you a strawberry and blueberry CC if you are interested. I never expected to like the cotton candies but they are amazing. Bubblegums are also forthcoming in various fruits.

Let me know if you prefer tart or sweet. Tarts will be more lifelike on the fruits, but sweets will be more candy like. I have the ingredients for both.

I will be offering these for ~$.60/mll, where most mid level product is going for $.06-1.00/ml. My distributor may ask for more, but my minimum will be $.60. I can't undercut her by much as she is distributing for me as of this moment. She will be paying me $.40/ml, so her cut is nominal compared to traditional retail.

Oh, and FWIW I really like an eVic. I do have one, and play with it a bit. I learned a lot off of it. If you opt for a dripper, you may want a mech. I like my drippers at .9ohms, where an eVic will read "short" and not fire below 1.0 ohms.

I am definitely switching to a dripper. My buddy I served with came out to visit today rocking a Vamo V5 and an Igo W drilled out. It was perfection minus being sans tank. Probably going to order a Russian 91% clone and a Vamo V5. The Russians are great, but my budget is $30 and under. Diapers ain't cheap! My buddy knows a guy with a shop who gets the new Vamo's for $30 so I gotta jump on it! Lol. I prefer a tart fruit. Let me know what you need for shipping to 95608. I'm pretty good at networking and I work in a car audio shop. Surprisingly I get a ton of vapers in. Turned a lotta people on to mtbakervaper. What kinda nicotine levels are you gonna be providing for customers?

For tart I am thinking blackberry and blueberry, possibly an apple down the line. If you are interested in something else, let me know.

As far as shipping, let's see what we get going to you. If flat rate makes more sense, we'll do that. I may wind up shipping several different juices for you to try to get your opinion, as well as for your pleasure. Still figuring less than $5 for enough juice to last you a month if you are a heavy vaper, should be fair, I suspect.

Vamos cut you off at 1.2 ohms IIRC, I like my drippers at .9 for a dual coil (in my Trident clone, well worth the money!) and 1.2 for a single (My genuine Nimbus, not really worth it, but decent). For your Russian/Kayfun lite, steer clear of the TOBECO clones. Mine is pretty much crap compared to the real deal. Look at EHPro and HCigar.

Call me vain, but I've been looking for a battery mod for about a month that I like. I have a desire for a copper/gold theme and I found the EH Pro Caravela in copper/gold and I already have a 45mm copper drip tip. Do you have a link to recommended atomizer in budget with tank? I can't add drops all day at work so I need something to hold a few mL's but still work well.

 

 

 

Caravelas are sexy. The real deal is getting ~$1500 for the mod right now as it is not being made anymore. Pedro, the designer and builder, was going fr exclusivity, and boy are people paying for it now.

 

The EHPro is a strong clone. Well worth the money. The copper is so fucking sexy, but hard to match with an atty. I love the look of copper which is why I got in on the preorder of the JD Tech Stingray Copper Black mod

 

stingray-copper-black-mod-by-jd-tech.jpg

 

stingray_copper_black_3.jpg

 

I love the Copper, but the stainless top and bottom caps are perfect for a stainless atty.

 

The Caravela is a 22MM mod with a 510 connection. The diameter is what matters with your attys as far as appearance, the connection is what matters mechanically. You can fit a 14MM 510 atty on your Caravela, but it will be 7MM more narrow. It doesn't look awful, but it is seamless with the same diameter. The Trident  is 20MM IIRC. The Trident (even in clone) will be awesome. Look for it, you can find it for $20-30. The clones are made in "gold" and stainless. My local B&M has them for $30, I'd be glad to snag one, build it, and ship it to you if you can't find them. Other dripping attys worth looking at are the Patriot (not my favorite, but clones can be had cheap), The Nimbus (I have one, the draw is a bit closed off, but the flavor is nice, and it has a deep well, so you can load it down and go a while), and my next dripper, The Omega. The Cyclone is another kick ass unit, but I have not seen clones of it. The genuine Cyclone is only about $60-70 new. It is high on my list, but I want a strong dripper with extremely clean lines to match with the Black Copper. IMO any texture doesn't belong on the BC. The Cyclone is clean, but not totally clean like an Omega.

 

Cyclone:

va-c-afc_3_.jpg

get it here: http://indyvaporshop.com/cyclone-rebuildable-atomizer.html

 

Vs the Omega:

 

7cf207e8-a07c-4fb9-bff5-846d1d8acc75_zps

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Seth, I would definitely be interested in your juices. The first ingredient on the store bought juice scare's me.

 

WOW J, you want another man's juices! wink.png

 

 

 

Come on, bro. We all know I am a sexy motherfucker.

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I want an Ithaka, but you need non resistance wire, welded to resistance wire, on them. Not sure about the clones, but for me that is a no.

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Not sure actually. It killed one plug so I thought. But watching my EGT's they are consistent so I think it is both. Could be in limp mode actually. Something electrical though. The list of things I've done is nearly all...

Have you tested all sensors and coils to see if they are within spec?  Sensors, coils and even ecm's can read appropriately and still be bad. In that case you have to simulate the problem and check the ohm values when it is defecting. Do you have a mechanic for advise or are you trying to do it all on your own?

 

What year IQR is it?

Yes tested everything. Put in a new coil, rectifier, regulator, unplugged all connections and check resistance where there was a spec. Redid ALL connection points.

Pulled exhaust, inspected exhaust valves, dissassembled & cleaned the VERY clean carbs, checked the reeds, tested compression...

2007 IQR

2007 600HO motor with Carl's cycle 700 heads and stock 700 Polaris pistons

2003 ProX PERC addition CDI

2001 Classic Touring Rectifier

2007 IQR regulator

That is the pertinent stuff. Everything else is changed too like the front suspension off a 2013 Assault, Custom rear rails for 9" bogey's, Custom trail valving in the shocks, 1.5" 136 Intense Track, Mt. Addiction Gas cans, LED tail light, 2005 IQR hood with PIAA HID's, Clutches all built for this altitude and motor (I've never ridden a sled with better clutching), Koso EGT/Temp/RPM, 2002 Edge Speedometer, Dragon button PERC conversion, Powder Pro Skis...

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Even bought a new engine temp sensor and swapped that to see if it was in limp mode. The ONLY thing I haven't changed is the CDI, but I can't get one quickly and they are fuckin' expensive if I want one fast.

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Seth, Acura RL from 2005?

What say you? Looking for AWD, nicer inside, and mid sized car or small SUV. Under $9,000ish and reliable.

Comfortable enough for a 6'2 fat guy is a plus but I hope to not drive it much.

 

 

05 trannys worry me. Other than that it is a solid beast.

 

Look for a turbocharged RXD. That is a fun little ride.

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Not sure actually. It killed one plug so I thought. But watching my EGT's they are consistent so I think it is both. Could be in limp mode actually. Something electrical though. The list of things I've done is nearly all...

Have you tested all sensors and coils to see if they are within spec?  Sensors, coils and even ecm's can read appropriately and still be bad. In that case you have to simulate the problem and check the ohm values when it is defecting. Do you have a mechanic for advise or are you trying to do it all on your own?

 

What year IQR is it?

 

Yes tested everything. Put in a new coil, rectifier, regulator, unplugged all connections and check resistance where there was a spec. Redid ALL connection points.

Pulled exhaust, inspected exhaust valves, dissassembled & cleaned the VERY clean carbs, checked the reeds, tested compression...

2007 IQR

2007 600HO motor with Carl's cycle 700 heads and stock 700 Polaris pistons

2003 ProX PERC addition CDI

2001 Classic Touring Rectifier

2007 IQR regulator

That is the pertinent stuff. Everything else is changed too like the front suspension off a 2013 Assault, Custom rear rails for 9" bogey's, Custom trail valving in the shocks, 1.5" 136 Intense Track, Mt. Addiction Gas cans, LED tail light, 2005 IQR hood with PIAA HID's, Clutches all built for this altitude and motor (I've never ridden a sled with better clutching), Koso EGT/Temp/RPM, 2002 Edge Speedometer, Dragon button PERC conversion, Powder Pro Skis...

 

 

 

I just don't know enough about 2strokes to offer advice. I have not been ignoring, just not wanting to mislead.

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Custom W cooler, extra inner bogey's, extra top bogeys (all aluminum), powder coated everything except the tunnel and rails which are anodized black. It's a beast with a small electrical ghost that is fucking with me bad.

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I want an Ithaka, but you need non resistance wire, welded to resistance wire, on them. Not sure about the clones, but for me that is a no.

 

Whoa whoa whoa for real? DAMN I thought I finally made a decision! Why can't you use normal wire?

Edited by gprestonmoto

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Not sure actually. It killed one plug so I thought. But watching my EGT's they are consistent so I think it is both. Could be in limp mode actually. Something electrical though. The list of things I've done is nearly all...

Have you tested all sensors and coils to see if they are within spec?  Sensors, coils and even ecm's can read appropriately and still be bad. In that case you have to simulate the problem and check the ohm values when it is defecting. Do you have a mechanic for advise or are you trying to do it all on your own?

 

What year IQR is it?

Yes tested everything. Put in a new coil, rectifier, regulator, unplugged all connections and check resistance where there was a spec. Redid ALL connection points.

Pulled exhaust, inspected exhaust valves, dissassembled & cleaned the VERY clean carbs, checked the reeds, tested compression...

2007 IQR

2007 600HO motor with Carl's cycle 700 heads and stock 700 Polaris pistons

2003 ProX PERC addition CDI

2001 Classic Touring Rectifier

2007 IQR regulator

That is the pertinent stuff. Everything else is changed too like the front suspension off a 2013 Assault, Custom rear rails for 9" bogey's, Custom trail valving in the shocks, 1.5" 136 Intense Track, Mt. Addiction Gas cans, LED tail light, 2005 IQR hood with PIAA HID's, Clutches all built for this altitude and motor (I've never ridden a sled with better clutching), Koso EGT/Temp/RPM, 2002 Edge Speedometer, Dragon button PERC conversion, Powder Pro Skis...

 

 

I just don't know enough about 2strokes to offer advice. I have not been ignoring, just not wanting to mislead.

I don't either. I've never really worked on one before. Learning quick though smile.png

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LAeTrkl.jpg

 

300wsm? 286 possibly?

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I really want a Trident in Gold, I just wish it had a tank....

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I want an Ithaka, but you need non resistance wire, welded to resistance wire, on them. Not sure about the clones, but for me that is a no.

 

Whoa whoa whoa for real? DAMN I thought I finally made a decision! Why can't you use normal wire?

 

 

 

The rubber insulators get hot and melt. You need non resistance inside the insulators and resistance for heat in the juice channel. The design appears incredible, I love how the Ithaka lays the coil and wick flat in a buried channel. It reduces wicking issues like dry hits and flooding, but the connectivity is a bit of a bitch. I have not personally had my hands on one, but my research has led me away from what I understand it an incredible device otherwise. The Penelope is another such device. I really want to play with both, but I am a bit nervous about such odd designs. I'll take posts all day.

 

The Ithaka is a tank. Other similar rebuildable tanks (all very easy compared to the Ithaka) are the Aqua (I have one, not a fan) The Russian/Kayfun 3.1 (both basically the same), The Russian 91%/Kayfun Lite + (cloned as a Kayfun Lite with airflow control), and the Squape (no hands on, but it was all the rage, then seemed to die off, but still solid). I know there are others, but I am drunk and feeling a tad off kilter right now.

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I really want a Trident in Gold, I just wish it had a tank....

 

 

the 3D is a bottom dripper with a tank. The reviews are all over the place. I wanted one as the design is cool, and it runs hybrid with my Nemesis, but I have read too many questionable reviews, so I am holding off until people get it rolling right. The top portion is a dripper, and under it is a tank. Push down on the top and it feeds juice into the chamber for vaping.

 

http://shop.vaperev.com/rebuildables/atmomixani/polished-3d-for-nemesis-mod.html

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I really want a Trident in Gold, I just wish it had a tank....

 

 

The Trident really rocks. I was not expecting to be blown away, but this little fucker rolls out huge clouds and has amazing flavor. Not much capacity, though. I can run 6 drips and get maybe 10 hits off it in reality. The well is shallow, but it is really easy to build on.

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Oh yeah, look at Taifun GTs. That is supposed to be one hell of a tank, and a sexy bitch too. That is on my short list. The genuine is very fucking pricey, but I have seen clones for under $40

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Have a 23'10" length 3 stall made for the minimum width for 3 single doors.

Currently inside on the floor are:

A 12' Enclosed snowmobile trailer

2010 Polaris Dragon 600 Switchback

2007 Polaris IQr 136

2010 Polaris Rush Pro-Ride - on a lift

Cadillac Escalade

Volvo XC90

Delta Unisaw

6"Lathe

4 CLoset cabinets

An 8'x3' workbench

My rolling toolbox

Garbage Can

Full Size Recycling can

Air compressor

Lawn Mower

High Pressure hose washer

A staircase into the house 4' vert

and of course the normal ancillary things

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It is about as packed as you can get. One sled tucked in front of each car and one with the cans in front of the trailer. Trailer is a bit over 18' long with tongue.

It's hilarious. My neighbors have cars in their garage and maybe a bike.

Also have 4 full size pieces of pegboard and a half set of kitchen cabinets off the floor.

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Just had to re-organize since we are getting snow tonight. The Esky has slept outside about 14 days this winter. Not when it snows though.

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Because then it gets plowed like shit and my driveway is a beyotch.

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I have to pull fwd cars out of my snowbanks multiple times every winter. This year was the first I didn't. They all were smart and parked at the bottom. RWD and AWD have made it up all year with no problems.

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Got the Revo in. Included NiMH batteries are LAME.

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Big LiPOs landed today though. 9400mah 7.4v doubles. With a 2200kV motor 14.8v is 32560 rpms. Shold pull 40mph for more than 30min at a pop. 50-60min drive time isn't unusual I hear.

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