Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[dem beats 1,223]

you could tar the bejesus out of the joint where the house and the driveway meet

That is a last resort. Driveway is cement, it would look some kind of funky unless I did the whole thing.

[dem beats 1,223]

I do have wood siding lol.

[dem beats 1,223]

I know they make little L shaped plastic runners that might work. I hate the thought of how that might look. I also don't want to make an obvious change that would let the next owner know there was water in the basement.

[dem beats 1,223]

could be an issue with the side to side grading of the driveway in relation to the house

More and more I am thinking this is it.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

 

Assuming that the foundation wall protrudes above grade like the image above, you should be able to get some tar in the joint between the foundation wall and the driveway. Think of it as a large caulk joint. Just make sure you don't set anything flammable on fire.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

could be an issue with the side to side grading of the driveway in relation to the house

More and more I am thinking this is it.

 

I would check the side to side grading of the driveway. Since it's a concrete driveway and not an asphalt driveway, you can fix it relatively easy. If it does turn out to be a side to side grading issue, disregard the tar advice. That would only be a band-aid and would not solve the root cause of the problem.

[dem beats 1,223]

....if only they made grey tar!

Yes the foundation wall is above the driveway level by more than 16". Think of where the grass starts against the foundation in that pic as a driverway and that is it.

[dem beats 1,223]

could be an issue with the side to side grading of the driveway in relation to the house

More and more I am thinking this is it.

I would check the side to side grading of the driveway. Since it's a concrete driveway and not an asphalt driveway, you can fix it relatively easy. If it does turn out to be a side to side grading issue, disregard the tar advice. That would only be a band-aid and would not solve the root cause of the problem.

As in make sure it has some slope directly away from the house? I can almost guarantee it doesn't slope directly away. I would see water flow away durring heavy rain.

[dem beats 1,223]

If it is the fact the water is being pushed towards the foundation, and then into a gap, how can that be fixed? Can you pour new concrete onto old concrete and grade it? There is no way to get under it and add dirt to grade it. It's against the house.

[///M5 2,833]

<-knows jack shit about that

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

If it is the fact the water is being pushed towards the foundation, and then into a gap, how can that be fixed? Can you pour new concrete onto old concrete and grade it? There is no way to get under it and add dirt to grade it. It's against the house.

 

Yeah that's the great thing about concrete. You can add or subtract to it repeatedly. They also have rental tools called concrete grinders. They're basically big ass floor buffers with diamond carbide teeth. You can use these to eliminate high spots. If you plan on adding concrete on top of the existing driveway, make sure to cover the driveway with a coat of concrete bonding agent beforehand and/or use polymer concrete.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

If the driveway turns out to be level, and tar isn't in the cards, I would suggest scraping out whatever crap is currently covering the joint. Old caulk, mud, leaves, whatever. The only thing you want there is the driveway, foundation wall, and the gap. If the gap itself is deeper than 1/2", you will have to fill it with either mortar, or a backer rod until it is 1/2" from the surface. Fill the remaining gap with a polyurethane sealant, such as OSI Quad or Loctite PL. Here is a YouTube video demonstrating this method with backer rod:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Hcx17cQU9Y

Edited March 11, 2013 by Penguin4x4

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

If you choose to mortar the gap, pick up a grouting bag. Much easier:

 

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/58598-cheap-bookshelf-m5-impious-tirefryer-little-help/

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

Blow it out your ass, motorcycle man! I am the Devil, do you understand?

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

Alternatively, companies sell small quantities of premixed product, such as Quikrete's Concrete Crack Seal:

 

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

It's a boring day - I've got nothing to do

Except to get a load of retards and drive 'em to the zoo

Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo

 

Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo

Load 'em on a bus just for laughs

Down a winding road stepping on the gas

Down a winding road just daydreaming

Down a winding road with the retards screaming

Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo

 

Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo

One of them blowing a big spit bubble

Slam on the brakes at the first sign of trouble

Head on collision bodies everywhere

Head on collision retards beware

 

Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo

 

Fah la la la la takin' retards to the zoo

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Matt, I hate to say it, but you'll have to rip the walls apart.  I spent two years in one house chasing a leak.  I finally ripped the walls apart and there it was, a leaky door footer and surface tension was carrying water all the way down to the other side of the house.  You have to be careful with water as often the source of the leak is not where it is the wettest.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

If you choose to mortar the gap, pick up a grouting bag. Much easier:

 

 

Tuckpointing is a bitch.   Find some polyurethane caulk that matches the grout or mortar and use that instead.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Alternatively, companies sell small quantities of premixed product, such as Quikrete's Concrete Crack Seal:

 

 

Do NOT use on a vertical surface and on cracks larger than 1/4"  Here's another hint too.  If you have a deep crack, take one of those foam pool noodles and cut it to fit down in the crack before filling.  It will keep the filler from cracking and aid in expansion and contraction. 

 

 

Talk to Ryan about concrete, he knows all about that shit.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

Alternatively, companies sell small quantities of premixed product, such as Quikrete's Concrete Crack Seal:

 

 

 

Do NOT use on a vertical surface and on cracks larger than 1/4"  Here's another hint too.  If you have a deep crack, take one of those foam pool noodles and cut it to fit down in the crack before filling.  It will keep the filler from cracking and aid in expansion and contraction. 

 

 

Talk to Ryan about concrete, he knows all about that shit.

 

So that crack filler has the same size limitations as sealant? Bummer.

Edited March 11, 2013 by Penguin4x4

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

Pool noodles are a lot cheaper than backing rod, for sure.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

 

Alternatively, companies sell small quantities of premixed product, such as Quikrete's Concrete Crack Seal:

 

 

 

Do NOT use on a vertical surface and on cracks larger than 1/4"  Here's another hint too.  If you have a deep crack, take one of those foam pool noodles and cut it to fit down in the crack before filling.  It will keep the filler from cracking and aid in expansion and contraction. 

 

 

Talk to Ryan about concrete, he knows all about that shit.

 

So that crack filler has the same size limitations as sealant? Bummer.

Pretty much the only thing to use is injectable epoxy, but it's not cheap, and if you find it cheap, don't waste your money.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Pool noodles are a lot cheaper than backing rod, for sure.

 

 

Fuck yeah!  I used to mark them out at Kmart at the end of the season for $.30 .