Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Woofer break in is as much of a myth as running Rcas separate from other wires

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Woofer break in is as much of a myth as running Rcas separate from other wires

Run a highs amp with power and RCA on the same side on a vehicle with a distributor and see what it'll get you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It depends on what you mean by sub break-in.

 

Breaking in a sub does change a sub so what is your definition of breakin is a myth?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The T/S of a subwoofer (or any driver) changes as the suspension loosens (i.e. becomes "broke in"). But since the relevant parameters (Cms, Fs, Q, etc) change proportionally, the response is changed slightly but typically by an inaudible amount. So the actual change in performance is virtually zero.

 

It's not a myth that the suspension loosens, changing the T/S parameters. It is a myth that some arbitrary "break-in period" needs to be ascribed where the driver is used at an arbitrarily lower power level for an arbitrary period of time. It's also a myth this change is dramatic since, as I pointed out above, the change in response is often not audible. I've obviously not seen measurements of every driver on the market, but I've yet to see measurements of a driver that results in an audible change in response. If somebody has any, I'd be interested in seeing them.

. Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The T/S of a subwoofer (or any driver) changes as the suspension loosens (i.e. becomes "broke in"). But since the relevant parameters (Cms, Fs, Q, etc) change proportionally, the response is changed slightly but typically by an inaudible amount. So the actual change in performance is virtually zero.

 

It's not a myth that the suspension loosens, changing the T/S parameters. It is a myth that some arbitrary "break-in period" needs to be ascribed where the driver is used at an arbitrarily lower power level for an arbitrary period of time. It's also a myth this change is dramatic since, as I pointed out above, the change in response is often not audible. I've obviously not seen measurements of every driver on the market, but I've yet to see measurements of a driver that results in an audible change in response. If somebody has any, I'd be interested in seeing them.

Sorry - no measurements yet smile.png

I can tell you my Alpine Type- R and Type -S sounded very different (to me) after a week or so than when they were first put in -

even when i took a used Type-S out and put a new one in, I could tell. when i first put them in, it seemed like it couldn't hit the low notes, after awhile, the lows definitely became more prominent (to me)* icon_nuts.gif

 

 

*Right before they blew lmfao

Edited by Trent Hari

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can tell you it's all in your head. I have roughly 30 different Klippel results from driver before and after being broken in.

None of them show any differences that would be audible.

However I do not have any that were on the verge of bring blown.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The T/S of a subwoofer (or any driver) changes as the suspension loosens (i.e. becomes "broke in"). But since the relevant parameters (Cms, Fs, Q, etc) change proportionally, the response is changed slightly but typically by an inaudible amount. So the actual change in performance is virtually zero.

 

It's not a myth that the suspension loosens, changing the T/S parameters. It is a myth that some arbitrary "break-in period" needs to be ascribed where the driver is used at an arbitrarily lower power level for an arbitrary period of time. It's also a myth this change is dramatic since, as I pointed out above, the change in response is often not audible. I've obviously not seen measurements of every driver on the market, but I've yet to see measurements of a driver that results in an audible change in response. If somebody has any, I'd be interested in seeing them.

Sorry - no measurements yet smile.png

I can tell you my Alpine Type- R and Type -S sounded very different (to me) after a week or so than when they were first put in -

even when i took a used Type-S out and put a new one in, I could tell. when i first put them in, it seemed like it couldn't hit the low notes, after awhile, the lows definitely became more prominent (to me)* icon_nuts.gif

 

 

*Right before they blew lmfao

Measurements are really the only thing that would support the claim that there was a significant audible change pre- and post break in.  Subjective experience does not.  As Q pointed out, you might have experienced a change, but the change was in your perception and not in the driver (at least not audibly).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

The T/S of a subwoofer (or any driver) changes as the suspension loosens (i.e. becomes "broke in"). But since the relevant parameters (Cms, Fs, Q, etc) change proportionally, the response is changed slightly but typically by an inaudible amount. So the actual change in performance is virtually zero.

 

It's not a myth that the suspension loosens, changing the T/S parameters. It is a myth that some arbitrary "break-in period" needs to be ascribed where the driver is used at an arbitrarily lower power level for an arbitrary period of time. It's also a myth this change is dramatic since, as I pointed out above, the change in response is often not audible. I've obviously not seen measurements of every driver on the market, but I've yet to see measurements of a driver that results in an audible change in response. If somebody has any, I'd be interested in seeing them.

Sorry - no measurements yet smile.png

I can tell you my Alpine Type- R and Type -S sounded very different (to me) after a week or so than when they were first put in -

even when i took a used Type-S out and put a new one in, I could tell. when i first put them in, it seemed like it couldn't hit the low notes, after awhile, the lows definitely became more prominent (to me)* icon_nuts.gif

 

 

*Right before they blew lmfao

Measurements are really the only thing that would support the claim that there was a significant audible change pre- and post break in.  Subjective experience does not.  As Q pointed out, you might have experienced a change, but the change was in your perception and not in the driver (at least not audibly).

 

Understood. I just had to say it.

I'm wondering what T/S parameters are.  

Also what are  , Cms, Fs,  and Q?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

The T/S of a subwoofer (or any driver) changes as the suspension loosens (i.e. becomes "broke in"). But since the relevant parameters (Cms, Fs, Q, etc) change proportionally, the response is changed slightly but typically by an inaudible amount. So the actual change in performance is virtually zero.

 

It's not a myth that the suspension loosens, changing the T/S parameters. It is a myth that some arbitrary "break-in period" needs to be ascribed where the driver is used at an arbitrarily lower power level for an arbitrary period of time. It's also a myth this change is dramatic since, as I pointed out above, the change in response is often not audible. I've obviously not seen measurements of every driver on the market, but I've yet to see measurements of a driver that results in an audible change in response. If somebody has any, I'd be interested in seeing them.

Sorry - no measurements yet smile.png

I can tell you my Alpine Type- R and Type -S sounded very different (to me) after a week or so than when they were first put in -

even when i took a used Type-S out and put a new one in, I could tell. when i first put them in, it seemed like it couldn't hit the low notes, after awhile, the lows definitely became more prominent (to me)* icon_nuts.gif

 

 

*Right before they blew lmfao

Measurements are really the only thing that would support the claim that there was a significant audible change pre- and post break in.  Subjective experience does not.  As Q pointed out, you might have experienced a change, but the change was in your perception and not in the driver (at least not audibly).

 

Understood. I just had to say it.

I'm wondering what T/S parameters are.  

Also what are  , Cms, Fs,  and Q?

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/blog/item/ts-parameters-explained.html

 

Explains it all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites



Understood. I just had to say it.
I'm wondering what T/S parameters are.
Also what are , Cms, Fs, and Q?


Thiele Small parameters describe the low frequency behavior of a loudspeaker.

Cms is the compliance of the suspension of the loudspeaker. Compliance is the inverse of stiffness. So Cms tells you how compliant the suspension of the speaker is....or, by extension, how stiff the suspension is (a higher compliance means lower stiffness, lower compliance means higher stiffness). When a subwoofer "breaks in", the only physical parameter that changes is the compliance of the suspension (Cms). Cms increases (the suspension becomes more compliant) because the suspensions loosens up and becomes softer and less stiff.

Since Cms changes, it changes most of the other relevant T/S parameters that predict how a loudspeaker behaves in the low frequency realm. Fs is the resonant frequency of the driver. This is your basic mass on a spring stuff. The mass of the moving parts (cone, coil and former, & suspension) and the "spring" is the suspension, and at some frequency these parts will naturally resonant just the same as any other mass on a spring. That's Fs. And since the compliance of the spring changes, the resonant frequency changes. Fs will go down because there's slightly less "spring" with the same amount of mass, so it resonates at a lower frequency.

Q was short hand for Qms, Qes and Qts. Q stands for Quality factor. Basically if a system is resonating, Q describes the amount of "loss" in the system or the amount of damping the system is providing....it tells you how long that system will resonate for. A higher Q means there is less loss (and less damping) so the system will be more resonant and will take longer to stop oscillating. Back to our mass on a spring, Q factor will determine how long it takes for the system to stop oscillating. Qms describes the damping provided by the suspension (surround and spider). Qes describes the damping provided by the motor. And Qts is the combined damping of the Qms and Qes, or the total damping of the driver. Generally speaking the motor provides the most control over the driver at and above resonance, so Qts is always much close to Qes than it is to Qms.

There is also Vas, which is more or less a different expression of the compliance of the loudspeaker. It's expressed in terms of air volume, liters or cubic feet. A larger Vas for a given cone diameter means a more compliant (less stiff) suspension. Vas has a lot to do with enclosure volume. Generally speaking, a larger Vas means a larger enclosure volume is needed for a given alignment.

Fs, Qts and Vas are the main parameters the describe what the shape of the response curve of a speaker will look like in a given enclosure. Now, Cms is really the only physical parameter that changes when a speaker breaks in. But since Cms changes, Fs and Vas will both change (Fs goes down, Vas goes up). And since Fs changes, Qes and Qms will both change (they go down since Fs goes down) which therefore changes Qts (goes down as well since both Qes and Qms go down). Looking at the math helps understand that part of it. But, more importantly, because Cms is the only physical parameter that changes that means Fs, Vas and Qts will all change in proportion to each other leaving their relative ratios pretty much the same. Which means the shape of the response in a given enclosure remains pretty much the same. There are small changes to the response, but they are are well below the threshold of audibility...less than 1db. It might, *MIGHT* matter to a guy who does SPL where .1db can be the difference between 1st and 2nd place. But audibly....no difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two thumbs up! that was very interesting and informative reading smile.png

A little complex, but understandable - Thanks

 

BTW i didn't know that running rcas separate from power was a myth. is it really not true? i thought power wire made "noise"  - the install shop ran my rcas separate.

Edited by Trent Hari

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've always had them ran directly next to each other and never had any issues as a result.

 

More than likely when people are having issues with induced noise that moving the RCA's helped, they were running the wires next to something else "noisy" in the vehicle and the power wire wasn't the actual problem.

 

Richard Clark used to offer money to anyone that could prove they induced noise into their RCA with a power wire.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your amp is supplying its rated power (sometimes) at all times, with proper voltage.  the gain is just a volume knob.  So don't think that is you're @ 3/4 gain you're putting 750, and so on.  Don't just throw your gain all the way up and say "Bam, 1000 watts"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your amp is supplying its rated power (sometimes) at all times, with proper voltage.  the gain is just a volume knob.  So don't think that is you're @ 3/4 gain you're putting 750, and so on.  Don't just throw your gain all the way up and say "Bam, 1000 watts"

yes, i understand. some music just has less bass than others so i tweak the headunit to make the music sound 'balanced' to my ears. however, when i really want to 'rock out' i turn it down. i have heard this sub for long enough that i can tell as soon as i'm getting close to distortion.  

 

 

I've always had them ran directly next to each other and never had any issues as a result.

 

More than likely when people are having issues with induced noise that moving the RCA's helped, they were running the wires next to something else "noisy" in the vehicle and the power wire wasn't the actual problem.

 

Richard Clark used to offer money to anyone that could prove they induced noise into their RCA with a power wire.

Can other Rca's cause 'noise'? i had pretty bad alternator noise on my old deck, until i removed an rca splitter the bridged the fronts and rears together than it went completely away. (i switched head units also)

 

by the way, i posted this in my sq thread but no one seems to be responding-  when i was driving today, i hear a very slight hiss (from the tweeters mainly)  during the quiet portions of the song, when i have the volume at near max. - (with an original Journey cd- 'on the song Faithfully') - what could be causing this? it is still there when i have the volume to max with the engine off, and when in 'aux' mode with nothing plugged in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you switched HU's then your comparison is invalid.  One of the HU's may have been more sensitive to the poor OEM ground location than the other, for example.

 

As to the 2nd question.....this has been a long thread & I don't remember, are the speakers driven by an amplifier?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you switched HU's then your comparison is invalid.  One of the HU's may have been more sensitive to the poor OEM ground location than the other, for example.

 

As to the 2nd question.....this has been a long thread & I don't remember, are the speakers driven by an amplifier?

Yes, the speakers are powered by an Alpine PDX-5, a Kenwood KDC 896, and the speakers are Alpine Type R components

(i faded all music to front speakers)

I'm not sure if you need  more information than that. if you need to know something more, just ask.

the amp is under the passenger seat

Edited by Trent Hari

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't want to post this earlier but since I drank a few beers I guess I will.   Every vehicle is different.  Achieving a tolerable unwanted noise is a good thing.  You can try a bunch of things to reduce the noise all you want; Blah Blah.  When it comes down to it, equipment, equipment, equipment. No I didn't copy and paste.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I didn't want to post this earlier but since I drank a few beers I guess I will.   Every vehicle is different.  Achieving a tolerable unwanted noise is a good thing.  You can try a bunch of things to reduce the noise all you want; Blah Blah.  When it comes down to it, equipment, equipment, equipment. No I didn't copy and paste.

Lol "jus one mor beer brah"  I have dang near the best amp and head unit that the companies that sell them make, I'm sure i can do better, I don't think i even ever heard a "professional sq system" before so i doubt im being terribly picky. -

 although i get more compliments from how loud and clear my speakers are , than how loud my sub is. 261.gif  unacceptable (jk) wink.png

 

Maybe you meant to say Install, Install, install?

Edited by Trent Hari

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is why pursuance of "SQ" builds are more challenging than throwing a bunch of power at a woofer woaloah magic. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is why pursuance of "SQ" builds are more challenging than throwing a bunch of power at a woofer woaloah magic. 

Well it seems to me i'm having more trouble "throwing the power at the woofer " than SQ.(Ironic)  lol.gif

I actually blew a woofer, i'm sure a little noise can be resolved. We could move the noise issue to my http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/59329-kenwood-vs-pioneer-sq-and-ease-of-use-sq-setup/page-5 Thread. Otherwise, a few ideas here would be helpful also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found the problem... You're running sundown woofers.  If Barack Obama issued a subs for scrubs program these would be the issuance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found the problem... You're running sundown woofers.  If Barack Obama issued a subs for scrubs program these would be the issuance.

haha

oops that link didn't log you in under my name did it? 

 

I never blew a sundown, I blew two Alpine subs, a type S and type R,

 

My  SA-12 is actually holding up surprisingly well -

 

I thought the Sa series was considered exceptionally durable for its rated power.

Edited by Trent Hari

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you are still rolling with 2.5 in" VC on the sundown.  They rate at 600 rms; I've owned alpines Rs in a loud build with 2 Rockford 801S and come to realize the woofers are short lived and a pain in the rear to rebuild.  Buy a quality woofer to ensure that your install procedures are not faulty.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

    1. Recent Topics

        • 19 comments
        • 326 views
        • 3 comments
        • 80 views
        • 398 comments
        • 33,435 views
        • 4 comments
        • 165 views
        • 2 comments
        • 741 views
        • 5 comments
        • 1,585 views
  • Similar Content

    • By Ryann627
      I currently own a 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier that I am currently building a subwoofer install in.
      My complete and current installs:
      New Kenwood KDC-BT378U radio with built-in speaker amp, All new door and deck speakers. (COMPLETE)
      Big 3 Kit, Mechman 270 AMP Alternator, (1) Sundown ZV6 12" 2-OHM 2500W Subwoofer (wired to 1 OHM), One run of 1/0 gauge wire complete with fuse and capacitor), Fiberglass Subwoofer Box(Not sure what size yet, any help on this would be greatly appreciated)
      Just wondering if all the above installs with be able to comfortably power a 3000 watt amplifier to run the subwoofer properly? I know Sundown Subwoofers are underrated, just not sure if I want to over-power by more than 500W, seems safer to me like that, unless I'm wrong? Never dealt with this much power before, max was 600 watts before this build.
      Any other install recommendations? Bigger battery because it is stock? Better springs for the added weight in the rear? Box will be fiberglass but the subwoofer alone weighs 95 pounds.
      Thanks in advance guys.
    • By Aaron Clinton
      A brief introduction to the all new SSA Demon, but first a farewell to its predecessor. 
           Our very long running SSA Dcon has ridden off into the sunset, or at least taking a breather.  The SSA Dcon was our second subwoofer model we ever launched.  At the very beginning, we had the Icon and as it gained traction we saw there was a need for a pure SQ sub of more modest power rating than that the Icon.  So in early 2008, the first SSA Dcon was launched.  (The Xcon followed shortly after).  That being said, the Dcon was almost an immediate hit, with a long 2" copper coil (rarity to have one made in the USA) triple stack motor, rear vent.  The Dcon was very affordable, well made, quite efficient, clean across the entire range, and flexible with enclosure demands.  It is interesting as there are some SSA Family members who swear by their Dcon and will not give it up ever.  (It even became a favorite of some of the home audio crowd).  All that being said, the Dcon evolved a bit for its second generation, we made a leap forward in motor force moving to what is best described as a scaled down Xcon motor, with a large single slug, solid pole, and deeply bumped back plate, while beefing up the suspension and leads.  We were able to bring the power handling up 33% while not hurting the sound that made the Dcon successful.  There was a stretch of a few years, before we ran out of stock, that the SSA Dcon 12 was our all time best selling subwoofer.  So its existence was very important to SSA.  Well with changes in the market (read:customer demands and amps getting much cheaper), as well as sky rocketing material costs, building the Dcon in the USA no longer was an option, so production stopped early 2017 for both the Dcon (and Gcon) and inventory ran out later that year. 
           Late last year, due to the long lay off with out the Dcon (and Gcon), we started development of an updated Dcon at a new build house.  The quality and performance of our SSA Evil1 tweeters were above our expectations, so we decided to send more production to that same build house.   As we saw that the market slowed overall for modest power rated subs due to power getting cheaper and people wanting higher power handling subs, so the market began to really start heating up in the 500 - 1200 watt range, I knew we needed to address it.  There is an 8" model developed, but it will not make it this first production run.  
           The new model had to handle more power and have more xmax while not sacrificing the balanced and clean sound the Dcon had established for nearly a decade.  That meant larger motor, larger coil, more suspension, larger leads, thicker cone, taller surround, etc.  In the end, all of the changes that happened to the over all design, we could no longer call it a Dcon.  In sticking with the theme of the Evil, a model name that has become so well known, while respecting the Dcon, the Demon name was selected.  The Demon is a great blend of the previous Dcon and Xcon, both in design and appearance.  In prototype testing, the SSA Demon thrived smaller to mid-sized ported and mid-sized sealed enclosures.
      Quick SSA Demon stats:
      2.5" copper coil Aluminum former Aluminum Shorting ring Solid pole, non-vented bumped back plate Large single slug motor Pressed pulp cone Tall roll surround Push terminals Dual Nomex progressive spiders Stitched tinsel leads Large dome dustcap I will list T/S specs and enclosure recommendations shortly.  We are very excited about the SSA Demon as it bringing back to our line up a pure sound quality subwoofer that will be affordable, while still having the characteristic SSA warmth and output. 
       
       
       

    • By DedicatedEnthusiast
      B2 Audio X2C 15
      $650 shipped!
      Contact at 440-915-2309 for further questions/concerns. 

       
    • By DedicatedEnthusiast
      Somewhat blown (sub still plays) Sundown X v.2 motor.
      $150 shipped!
      Basket included.
      Contact at 440-915-2309 for further questions/concerns.

  • Recent YouTube Posts

×