How to fit 8's in my doors, 2000 Chevy Blazer 4dr

[gprestonmoto 89]

I've got a set of those Faital Pro 6FE200's that have never seen power, I'll sell to you for $90 shipped.

[SpeakerBoy 64]

Would a properly set up front stage with three 6.5's per door be enough midbass to blend with the sub? Tweeters on the dash.

Edited January 19, 2014 by SpeakerBoy

[///M5 2,833]

Properly and 3 is tough. And by keep up, knowing the frequency they need to play to would help. Also a huge difference between a radio shack coaxial and an ex anarchy

[SpeakerBoy 64]

Properly and 3 is tough. And by keep up, knowing the frequency they need to play to would help. Also a huge difference between a radio shack coaxial and an ex anarchy

Would two be sufficient? I imagine imaging goes away the more drivers you add

[altoncustomtech 773]

Yes it would but staging and imaging are hardly at the top of the priority list when running that large of a sub stage. I mean is it really a concern?

Focusing on making it listenable at those decibel levels would be the main concern from everything I've read and understand. That's where the difficulty really lies and why these guys kinda laugh out loud at people when they say they want a front stage to keep up with ~150dB+ for $200.

I tend to stay out of these threads because I have a hard time understanding why it has to be the front stage keeping up with the subs instead of the other way around. If the budget, time, knowledge or any combination of the three or other factors keep a person from building it that way then why not just build what one can within their given restraints and turn the sub down to match. When you go to show it off or demo a sub stage like that for someone the last thing that's typically on their minds is the front stages ability to keep up. But they might very well make note of it sounding like crap which is why I've worried much more about how it sounds in recent years than how loud it gets.

Sorry, I'm done rambling now.

[///M5 2,833]

It all comes down to your "keep up". My definition is what the subs do at 40Hz the mids should do at 80Hz or somewhere around there taking into account a little roll off for the equal loudness contour.

For what you have for sub-bass though using my definition will take a shit ton of space and money.

[SpeakerBoy 64]

Yes it would but staging and imaging are hardly at the top of the priority list when running that large of a sub stage. I mean is it really a concern?

Focusing on making it listenable at those decibel levels would be the main concern from everything I've read and understand. That's where the difficulty really lies and why these guys kinda laugh out loud at people when they say they want a front stage to keep up with ~150dB+ for $200.

I tend to stay out of these threads because I have a hard time understanding why it has to be the front stage keeping up with the subs instead of the other way around. If the budget, time, knowledge or any combination of the three or other factors keep a person from building it that way then why not just build what one can within their given restraints and turn the sub down to match. When you go to show it off or demo a sub stage like that for someone the last thing that's typically on their minds is the front stages ability to keep up. But they might very well make note of it sounding like crap which is why I've worried much more about how it sounds in recent years than how loud it gets.

Sorry, I'm done rambling now.

Simply because bass seems to be the most impressive to most people, and a front stage is complicated, overwhelming compared to saying one huge woofer in a big box on a lot of power. I'm not concerned with where the singer seems to be standing, indeed, just want clean crisp sound.

[SpeakerBoy 64]

It all comes down to your "keep up". My definition is what the subs do at 40Hz the mids should do at 80Hz or somewhere around there taking into account a little roll off for the equal loudness contour.

For what you have for sub-bass though using my definition will take a shit ton of space and money.

You have much more particular tastes than me. I just like when the big speakers go boom and the small ones go byahhhhhhhhh

[SpeakerBoy 64]

The title should probably say front stage planning...lol.

Posted in the wrong thread of mine; but my budget is vaguely $500 for speakers and $500 for amps, however being worth what i'm paying is far more valuable than saving a few bucks. I am not sure what I want, other than better. I know midbass is an area I was seveverly lacking in though.

Edited January 28, 2014 by SpeakerBoy

[lithium 358]

from the other thread. 

 

 

 

and going to aim for a set of Hybrids in the fronts

Don't waste your money like that

 

Not worth the tag?

I just read some reviews. I'm not too sure about the pricing between the series', and which line i'd choose. 

Alternatives? Something that would work well in a high output two way is what i'm after, but I don't want just loud. I'm tired of having just blaring, tinny scratchy bullshit ass sound. I am front stage retarded. 

 

 

budget? this would include money for deadening the front doors and the front stage amp. 

 

edit: maybe another thread since this is titled substage haha

 

There's no total budget, it's an ongoing thing; I mean, don't link me a set of thousand dollar tweeters I'd say a $500 for speakers, $500 on amps, and as much deadening as it takes. this is going to be the hard part, the rest of this year is dedicated to the front stage since all the woofer needs is a prettier box.

Its far more important that its worth the money than the price tag be in a certain range

 

[SpeakerBoy 64]

Thank you kind sir

[SpeakerBoy 64]

Was wondering if it was logical to dedicate my rear doors to some serious midbass action. I never lower my rear windows, so moving parts or removing shit from inside isn't an issue. I was thinking some pods made to hold a pair of eights or at ten in each rear door, with mids and highs in the front like normal. I don't know exactly how midbass works.front to rear locatable? Fuck my grammar by the way, been having problems with insomnia and am getting loopy. All these ideas I have, man, i'm guessing. Owning a nice woofer and stalking an audio forum through out highschool does not make you a pro lol

You guys said imaging gets hard at high SPL levels so, would this be an acceptable compromise/solution?

Edited January 28, 2014 by SpeakerBoy

[lithium 358]

that's a pretty large budget for a front stage. way more than i spent on my install which included a 3way active front stage. 

 

starting off with installation i think you need to get at least the doors treated with cld tiles, mlv, and ccf per the methods on sound deadener showdown. deadening the rest of the vehicle would make sense as well. perhaps go so far as treating the floors, doors, etc with mlv (or similar barrier) if the vehicle has particularly high road noise, engine noise, etc. lower noise floor = high perceived output from the entire system.

 

there might be some other techniques used by the spl guys. I've seen shit like strengthening the roof with fiberglass (think it was quentin's build log). 

 

from what i remember your previous system was just some cheap comps or coaxs amped up but not installed well (no deadening or tuning)? Based on that I think it would be best to start with a decent pair of components. nothing expensive (perhaps used) set like what you can find in the SSA store (IA or sundown comps). The idea would be to install the comps correctly, learn to tune and adjust them until you squeeze all the performance out of them as possible. Next evaluate what you like and dislike about them. Then you can come back to us with some ideas as to what improvements need to be done. And hopefully by then you have enough experience to do something more technical (like the active installs some of the other guys have started). 

 

for the front stage amp, no reason to spend 500 bucks. i would just grab a big ass 4 channel for around 200 bucks. i've been planning to downsize my collection of 2 channels to a pair of ppi p900.4's for example. super small amp and a ton of power. there are some other options but the ppi (or the other models which use the same design) are really popular right now for a reason. 

Edited January 28, 2014 by lithium

[lithium 358]

Was wondering if it was logical to dedicate my rear doors to some serious midbass action. I never lower my rear windows, so moving parts or removing shit from inside isn't an issue. I was thinking some pods made to hold a pair of eights or at ten in each rear door, with mids and highs in the front like normal. I don't know exactly how midbass works.front to rear locatable? Fuck my grammar by the way, been having problems with insomnia and am getting loopy. All these ideas I have, man, i'm guessing. Owning a nice woofer and stalking an audio forum through out highschool does not make you a pro lol

You guys said imaging gets hard at high SPL levels so, would this be an acceptable compromise/solution?

 

no reason to make it that complicated. you can get tons of output from the front doors. the methods are just more complicated in terms of install and tuning. 

[SpeakerBoy 64]

Deadening frightens me lol. Disassembly is easy, but man putting it all back in and finding a handful of screws makes me so so so mad o_o

The floor and roof are my worries. Applying deadener not so much, but I have had absolutely dismal luck with putting panels back on. It ALWAYS feels fucked up compared to the before even with all the connectors in place. Does anyone bother to replace their clips when they disassemble?

[SpeakerBoy 64]

Is there a such thing as over deadening? (As in detrimental not just throwing twelves layers on a single spot lol)

Just curious. Back in the day I read here that someone lost spl from over bracing their boxes and it never made sense to me. Wondering.

[lithium 358]

don's methods are pretty easy for cdl tiles because you're not covering 100%  of the panel. domestic vehicles should be pretty straight forward for disassembly. even my brother's sentra was very simple. you want to replace all the clips so nothing is loose (rattles). deadening the cabin is definitely something you want to do all in one go.  

[lithium 358]

you need to go to sounddeadenershowdown.com and read everything. 

[lithium 358]

Is there a such thing as over deadening? (As in detrimental not just throwing twelves layers on a single spot lol)

Just curious. Back in the day I read here that someone lost spl from over bracing their boxes and it never made sense to me. Wondering.

 

when you're chasing 1/4 a db on the meter may be. 

Edited January 28, 2014 by lithium

[SpeakerBoy 64]

 

Is there a such thing as over deadening? (As in detrimental not just throwing twelves layers on a single spot lol)

Just curious. Back in the day I read here that someone lost spl from over bracing their boxes and it never made sense to me. Wondering.

 

when you're chasing 1/4 a db on the meter may be. 

 

Makes sense at least that it's not like oh shit that dowel cost me 8dB lol.

And I don't think i'm ocd enough to overdeaden a whole vehicle

Edited January 28, 2014 by SpeakerBoy

[SpeakerBoy 64]

Would I suffered a significant loss of quality, using wireless RCA's for my install?
I'd mount a transmitter in the glovebox and a receiver in the trunk, so the only wires i'll have to run are a power and ground. 

Doing 4/0 for both by the way, as well as big 3 , thinking about going under the car this time, I didn't like where my power passed through the firewall; it was a pre-cut hole there and with passengers stepping up against it, it pulled it close to the motor and ate off some of the jacket, had to rip it out and loom it, and zip it to the side of the bay after that, because even with no slack, they worked it loose. 

I ask, because i'm going to do this for a backup camera, and it has audio as well as video ports.

Edited January 29, 2014 by SpeakerBoy

[lithium 358]

dont make shit complicated. just run some 5 dollar rca's 

[SpeakerBoy 64]

dont make shit complicated. just run some 5 dollar rca's 

My friend has them sitting in his garage doomed for a garage sale, so I can use it for free lol

and why run wire when I don't have to? I mean, if it effects the sounds, i'll run the for sure, but it would just make me happy if I didn't need to tuck and hide so much.

[lithium 358]

post some specs. i'm very doubtful. if you're already running big fucking power wire and speaker wire then why would one or two rca's be a hassle? 

[SpeakerBoy 64]

post some specs. i'm very doubtful. if you're already running big fucking power wire and speaker wire then why would one or two rca's be a hassle? 

The power and ground will go under the truck this time, zipped to the frame, and fed back in in the trunk, to a block in the back. 

he's at work let me try to text him for the name of the transmitter. 

I mean, objectively it's not that big of a deal, but it makes taking things out easier, as well as minimizes the change of a smashed or damaged wire; when i'm not driving it, my friend borrows it to drive his scout troops (needs the 4x4 up at camp) and they are all still mid teens, not exactly my favorite to have in my vehicle lol, messing with all my shit. In my last blazer, the door trim pieces had some sharp clips in there that tore up a set of rca's that I had to replace, and just laid over the carpet, and took small strips of tape to hold it down along the weather seal. 

Edited January 29, 2014 by SpeakerBoy