2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V: Project Spec-SQ

[ANeonRider 3]

IB MAW-10s hanging from the rear deck... good idea or bad idea?

Mark told me ~100W per driver to keep them alive, so I'd have to wire them in series/parallel.

I've never heard an IB configuration before, but have always wanted to try. Can anyone estimate the output difference between 3 10s (10mm xmax) IB, to a 0.7 sealed enclosure? (Probably not...).

Might be one of those things to try, and see how I like it.

Best picture I have of the trunk side of the rear deck. It has 3 6.5" holes.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

It would be interesting, you would be the first MAW-10 in car IB install that I know of.

[ANeonRider 3]

I took measurements last night... the amount of deck space I have is only 8", unless I remove the trunk springs.

[Bigpete123 1]

If you're looking for SPL, it's definitely not the way to go. According to Infinity (I have the Infinity Kappa Perfect 10VQ sub), the subwoofer's wattage drops roughly in half when you compare IB to a sealed enclosure. Not sure how it would compare to a ported enclosure.

But the tricky thing about it is that the subwoofer becomes much more sensitive to the power it receives; it's more efficient because it has almost no back-pressure to fight against.

For the very short period when I got to listen to music in my car (before I realized my amp needs to be sent in for repairs ), I actually found the sound to be much more punchy than I expected. It was actually louder than expected too- I had to turn the gain down for it to suit my listening preference.

I haven't actually heard any IB setups other than my own. But I'm sure woofer selection is extremely important. Apparently the Q needs to be low on it, etc etc. I just bought a sub that is made for IB from the manufacturer, so that took all of the research out of the equation for me. But I bet making sure the woofers are designed for IB is vital for SQ. Equally as vital is your diligance in sealing the trunk from the cabin. Don't skimp on that.

I had some people tell me IB is a horrible idea because the sub "sounds like it's flapping all over the place". Mine sounds nothing like that at all. I'm willing to bet the people who told me that were either using the wrong sub or didn't take the time to prepare the trunk as they should've.

Regarding whether you could fit all 3 of thos subs in your rear deck, you could always get creative. You don't have to flush-mount your subs to the deck. You could build a baffle that allows the subs to be angled, or you could build a chamber that vents into the cabin via the rear deck. Obviously this is more work, but it could look pretty slick. For example, look at the "small deck installation" section on this page:

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxes1.asp#2

Anyway, sorry for the long post. Maybe you already knew all of this, but hopefully it was helpful.

[ANeonRider 3]

Another option for me to chew on.... I have a MJ18 4ohm version that I am not using.

Could IB it, with the baffle mounted in the opening to the rear seats.

I suck at deciding what I want to do.

On another note, I received another 200 sq. ft. of sound deadener yesterday. Just need to measure how much room I have in my doors for mids & make my Madisound order.

[Adrian_D 520]

you could try IB with a manifold that opens through the read deck...

[ANeonRider 3]

I shelfed the IB idea... the hinges go through the rear deck, and would be extremely difficult to seal up.

The H701 came in today. Have the unit installed, but have to wait until tomorrow to use it, because I need an optical cable, the 6ft one I have isn't long enough. Did more deadening, laid down another 50sq. ft. Deadened under the rear seat with two layers, added a third layer to the rear deck, and a second layer to the trunk. Also have started a new fiberglass enclosure w/ an integrated amp rack.

Also need to remove the seats tomorrow and remove my crossovers... and deaden and measure the depth on my driver's side door.

Then go camping until Monday.

[///M5 2,833]

for camping. I might hop back out in my tent this weekend as well. Best time of the year for it if you ask me as the weather is nice and cool in the evenings.

Heard an H701 install the other day and it was fantastic. Tons of options that really allow you to dial things in.

[ANeonRider 3]

Just measured depth on my door.

3.5" in stock configuration. Only have 1.75" from door skin to window, but have 1.75" of usable room from door skin to door panel... and get this... the door panel is two piece, and easily split (clips). I may have to get busy on some door pods.

The whole bottom piece below the arm rest is removable.

So, the question becomes...

Since I can fit 3.5", I have opened my options up.... and especially since I am probably going to tackle door pods once the subwoofer enclosure is complete.

Perhaps?

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/seas/H511.pdf

Plus

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/seas/h1396.pdf

I'd like to keep it under $225US before shipping.

[///M5 2,833]

How high do you need them to play in the frequency domain?

[///M5 2,833]

And if you can fit 3.5" without pods can you fit 4" with?

Hmm just realized that you were going two way. And my last two questions I was assuming three since you have the H701. Is that a thought at all?

[ANeonRider 3]

I would love 3 way... but that really depends on the driver & additional amp cost for now... if it gets to pricey, I'll have to wait until fall, or whenever I get my next raise.

I can fit up to 3.5" without doing any modifications, and well, door pods, the sky (or my leg) is the limit there.

[///M5 2,833]

The reason I ask is that I'd use a different driver if going 3 way. Something like the Peerless SLS, but it is 4" deep; however, if you want to do a 2 way now and perhaps upgrade to 3 later I personally would look at either the L22RNX or CA22. The breakup on the L is just above 4k so you should be fine blending it with the Neo, the CA of course doesn't have that issue at all. Both would make good midbass drivers down the road as well. Note, the L22/4RNX has a breakup that is lower and I think will be more troubling. The Peerless of course is useless in a 2way. Any of the three will make me jealous.

[///M5 2,833]

If I had to choose a midrange right up front on a budget, I'd look at:

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=45_241_282

Aurasound NS3

HiVi BS3

Fostex FF85k

I have heard all three and enjoyed the Fostex the most and they were being run without a tweeter, which of course would be another option for you. A midbass and a 3 with a tweeter to be added later.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

I think Ramos has the HiVi, but not sure if he has it installed or not.

[ANeonRider 3]

Hmm... I should just use the 1" tweeter that I have from my Type X's (177A).. then go with a 8" midbass, 3 or 4" midrange for now, then upgrade my tweeter later.

[///M5 2,833]

Yes. Or if you want you could get a set of the pacpart xt19's for $13 a piece.

[ANeonRider 3]

I'd need a hand from someone then

How does this sound?

Peerless SLS 8": $120 (doors)

Pacparts XT19: $26 (a-pillars)

Aurasound NS3: $40 (sail panel)

Think the NS3's will be able to have the output to keep up with the SLS?

Then need a small footprint amplifier, probably 50Wx2.

[///M5 2,833]

A hand I can give. I like your proposed setup a lot.

[ANeonRider 3]

YGPM

I emailed Solen for a price quote.

[DevilDriver 28]

YGPM

I emailed Solen for a price quote.

I think I have a couple left at the house from when I built my horns that you can have. If I find them, they're yours, free and clear.

[ANeonRider 3]

NS3's? What colour cone (ya, I asked )

That would be sweet.

[DevilDriver 28]

NS3's? What colour cone (ya, I asked )

That would be sweet.

Don't think the NS3's have ever been offered in anything other than a white cone, but I could be wrong. I'll double-check when I get home from work and try to get back to you tonight.

[ANeonRider 3]

They come in black & white.

[///M5 2,833]

You have PM as well