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ok my amplifier has no internal fusing and is around 2000 watts (i dont know how accurate hifonics amp ratings are) so do i need an 2nd fuse near the amp?? I see in your sig that you only have one amp. If that is true you'll will only need 1 fuse and that would be placed near the battery. Now the fuse you put in the holder would be rated for what the amp needs to be protected, and not the wire. But if you have two amps this is a different story. Wrong. The fuse right next to the battery protects the wire, not the amp. Thats why it is right after the battery and not right before the amp. The fuse before the amp, protects the amp. KU40 just explained this. Well i can prove you wrong here is a piece of info right from the new zed manuals... Last is the +12volt connection. Using #8 (#4 max)or larger, strip the wire to 19mm (0.75”) and insert in to the hole marked BATT (+) on the power connector. Run the cable (away from all audio cables) to the location of the vehicle’s battery. At the battery location install the a fuse holder no further away from the battery (+) terminal than 300mm (12”). Insert this end of the +12volt power cable into the fuse holder. Making sure that the fuse is removed, connect the other end of the fuse holder to the battery’s (+) terminal using appropriate high quality battery connectors. Insert the supplied fuse. DO NOT OVERFUSE as this can be a fire hazard. NO where in that paragraph does he say anything about a fuse near the amplifier, and most his amplifiers do have fuses on them any way. The Fuse near the battery would be below the rating of the wire any way. So in fact it would protect the wire. Also i read some where also that zed dislikes distribution blocks as well. He would rather have you run seperate power wire for every amplifier. If you want i can find this aswell. If you are running two amplifers like is said in my post before,then this way won't work unless u run a new power wire. It doesnt say anything about a fuse near the amp in that paragraph because you just answered it yourself. If the amp already has an internal fuse then you dont need it. Its that simple. And who gives a shit about d-blocks? If you are going down in wire size from a d-block, you should use a smaller fuse. That is very simple as well. You proved nothing. I forgot to type the NOT in one of the setences. Here is the corrected sentence. Most his amplifiers do NOT have fuses on them anyway. Which then would prove my point. Correct if you use a d block you would have a smaller fuse. Now the fuse you would put in the d block would be the fuse that would protect the amp you are using, then the fuse under the hood would be the sum of the two fuses in the d block. But going back to the original post he never said anything about a d block, also in his sig I only see that he has one amp and thats where i based my interpetation off of. So are you going to base your decisions on one brands manual? Ive seen plenty of manuals including the OP's that say to fuse before the amp too. And after all we were giving advice to the OP who has a Hifonics amp, not a Zed. But I guess we can agree to disagree.

No not the size of the bolt that you mount too (though is is way small) The stud that sticks out the top for the charging wire has two lil plastic tabs on either side of the stud they are about 3/8 of an inch apart so you can only fit small terminals on it the biggest I could fit was a 6 awg terminal. No I dint have to use a new size belt but since I already had the belt off I just threw a new gatorback on. My belt tensioner has about 3 inches of travel to it, but I have had to buy new belts for for my cutlass supreem and one for my grand vitara. So I guess is depends on your aplication I know how the terminal is. I used to build alternators and other parts of automotive electrical systems. Still, you could have trimmed the lug even further to fit the post. You have to look at it from a manufacturer's perspective. You say you modified one thing, how are they to know you didn't do something else. They can no longer offere a warranty. They don't know what you really did, and they have had many fools before you who have claimed the same thing, only when they get the item back, it's destroyed beyond repair. I've dealt with this personally countless times. You can't make exceptions in business. For future reference, if you ever have to modify something, modify the least expensive part. As for the belt, technically you could have belt slippage. Even though the tensioner is self-adjusting, they sometimes develop a "memory" and will not tension the belt any further. IT's just like a torque wrench. You have to zero it out after every use. Unless you pick up the slack somewhere else, like a larger idler pulley, I would still drop the belt size a little. Different types of pulleys also create belt slippage as well. Plastic and aluminum are notorious for this. For an idler, it's no big deal, but for a drive or driven pulley, it can mean the difference between charging or not, or having your vehicle remain cool or over heat.

Obviously you know nothing about sound deadening. Mass is the name of the game in a barrier, but not deadening. And yes mat is NOT a good barrier.

Completely agree. They should. Actually for that torture is appropriate. That sort of crime puts you below the level of simple animals to me. Hell we need some beings for medical testing, let's use 'em. You just violated your right to be a human, so fuck PETA we are testing on you.

Check it out:

seems a little light. Death Penalty seems good to me

He has a W505 and therefore doesn't need the controller. The 505 is a way better controller than the rux anyways. I'd also highly recommend not using dynamat but instead shopping for deadener products here: http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi I won't comment on the speaker locations until I know what car you have. Perhaps I missed it/forget it through the thread, but every car is different and a compromise. What do you feel you are able to do?

h-701 is an outstanding processor that has been widely used by many SQ competitors.the DQXS is great too, but I personally like the 701's features and abilities, plus the rux controller is pretty sweet if you are going with that processor, you will be able to build one helluva 3-way active system. I think in your case a 3-way active sounds like it will be best. dynamat and build a nice strong baffle for the mid-bass in the doors. mount mids in the dash, up closer to the windshield, not closer to you, and closer to the sides, ~5-6 inches from left pillar, and right speakers about same from right pillar. the sorry to be more specific, ~8 inches from center of mid to pillar, doesn't have to be exact, just giving you an idea. then tweeters facing each other on the lower end of the pillars. this will make for quite a nice stage. again, the tuning and install job will be the determining factor. I would recommend some midranges that will play as low as possible, such as sub 200 hz so that all vocals will be staged from the dash rather than the doors. mid-bass ~50-60hz up to ~150 is OK for the doors. that is my recommendation, and what I would personally do in your situation. now for drivers, well I already recommended my personal favorite, but obviously there are tons of choices. here's some of my fav. companies... hybrid audio morel focal (love the k2 or k3 mids, not the tweets and mid-bass are just OK) mids are awesome though eton DLS dynaudio scanspeak zapco rainbow genesis (had to edit can't believe i forgot genesis, IMO probably the best SQ amp on the market today as well) there are many more, but that's what is at the top of my head right now.

If you are not using an install that has close to equal pathlengths between you and both the left and right midrange and midbass drivers.....you will want, scratch that, need time alignment. And if you are going active, adjustable slopes are extremely useful. I don't believe the DQXS offers either of those features.

actually adding another one on your current enclosure will change the bass response drastically. You will essentially have a single 12 SSD in a 5 cu ft enclosure. Isobaric loading halves the Vas...making the enclosure seem twice as big to the driver

totally agree with denim. you have to make a choice between spl and sq. I will say though in terms of spl my x-cons whoop some ass and definitely provide more spl than my bl did sub for sub.

ok my amplifier has no internal fusing and is around 2000 watts (i dont know how accurate hifonics amp ratings are) so do i need an 2nd fuse near the amp?? I see in your sig that you only have one amp. If that is true you'll will only need 1 fuse and that would be placed near the battery. Now the fuse you put in the holder would be rated for what the amp needs to be protected, and not the wire. But if you have two amps this is a different story. Wrong. The fuse right next to the battery protects the wire, not the amp. Thats why it is right after the battery and not right before the amp. The fuse before the amp, protects the amp. KU40 just explained this. Well i can prove you wrong here is a piece of info right from the new zed manuals... Last is the +12volt connection. Using #8 (#4 max)or larger, strip the wire to 19mm (0.75”) and insert in to the hole marked BATT (+) on the power connector. Run the cable (away from all audio cables) to the location of the vehicle’s battery. At the battery location install the a fuse holder no further away from the battery (+) terminal than 300mm (12”). Insert this end of the +12volt power cable into the fuse holder. Making sure that the fuse is removed, connect the other end of the fuse holder to the battery’s (+) terminal using appropriate high quality battery connectors. Insert the supplied fuse. DO NOT OVERFUSE as this can be a fire hazard. NO where in that paragraph does he say anything about a fuse near the amplifier, and most his amplifiers do have fuses on them any way. The Fuse near the battery would be below the rating of the wire any way. So in fact it would protect the wire. Also i read some where also that zed dislikes distribution blocks as well. He would rather have you run seperate power wire for every amplifier. If you want i can find this aswell. If you are running two amplifers like is said in my post before,then this way won't work unless u run a new power wire. It doesnt say anything about a fuse near the amp in that paragraph because you just answered it yourself. If the amp already has an internal fuse then you dont need it. Its that simple. And who gives a shit about d-blocks? If you are going down in wire size from a d-block, you should use a smaller fuse. That is very simple as well. You proved nothing. I forgot to type the NOT in one of the setences. Here is the corrected sentence. Most his amplifiers do NOT have fuses on them anyway. Which then would prove my point. Correct if you use a d block you would have a smaller fuse. Now the fuse you would put in the d block would be the fuse that would protect the amp you are using, then the fuse under the hood would be the sum of the two fuses in the d block. But going back to the original post he never said anything about a d block, also in his sig I only see that he has one amp and thats where i based my interpetation off of.

Anyone Know What Kind Of Amp This Is? Or Could Anyone Link Me In The Right Direction. Thanx