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If this is in the wrong section, mods please move it. Otherwise, I wanted to comment on the customer service at SSA. I recently ordered a Sundown SAX-100.4 and a Sundown SAZ-2000D. I was quickly notified that there will be a wait on the 100.4 Then a couple days later I asked about the SAZ as I figured I should have had a tracking # by now and was affraid it was going to be backordered as well (such is my luck) and I got an immdediate response back that they'd check on it. To top it all off I got the response from the check practically seconds later that I should have the tracking # tonight. WOW!! is all I can say, that is some quick service. I wish customer service centers everywhere were as quick and reliable as you folks! Thanks again Aaron, y'all have yourselves a great weekend!

I have been a busy man the past month and thought I would share the results. It's been cold and wet so the pics are going to be limited. Work was more important since time was a factor. Next house will have a BIG garage. Working in the elements has it's challenges. Lets get this party started. I decided I wanted to try the XCONS out sealed and I sure am glad I did. I still have HUGE output and the SQ improved in a big way. Nice tight bass that you feel in your gut. Amazing. Dont listen to that bullchit that you need a big ported box to get the XCONS loud. That is just not true and the people saying it have no experience actually doing it. These MF'ers wang in a sealed box. Here is the original box I got from Quentin at Audible Customs as part of his initial free box with woofer purchase. It was a great enclosure and the man has serious skills. I would recommend him to anyone. Little over 6cf ported to 34hz Out with the old / In with the new 6cf sealed Going to paint the box with the same paint I used below on my door pods. Next up was the challenge of getting some real mid bass up front. I have experimented with various component sets over the past year and spent a ton of cash only to be left with the same feeling. No mid bass. Finally, I found an excellent deal on a gently used set of Dynaudio 362's and had to jump all over it. I had no problems buying these used because I figured anyone who had these would have taken care of them. After some serious debate as to cutting up the doors in order to fit the 8" mid bass and watching BigRank's door pod build, I decided to jump right in and make myself some door pods. I had purchased a set of Q logic kick panels already so I went the easy route and used those. The door pods are another story. The woofer was too big to fit comfortably in the stock hole as one side had a dip and I didn't feel I would get a good seal to the door and baffle. Jumping right in with both feet. Sealed the doors. You can see the dip in the door to the right of the opening, it's about 3/4-1" deep. I have used a bulk pack of Damplifier Pro and a bulk pack of Dynamat Extreme so far, but all 4 doors and the rear hatch is solid. Masking off the door Laying the first layer of glass Setting up a skeleton The fleece. I was the only male in Hobby Lobby. Next challenge was getting a good seal and venting the door pod into it factory 6.5" hole. Home Depot plumbing department to the rescue. Toilet base drain FTW. Finished product, somewhat. The color is much closer in person that the picture suggests. I may end up changing this up a bit and trying the woofer and mids in pods and tweeters in the pillars, but if that happens, it will be spring. BIG BIG BIG think you to BigRank for posting his build log. It was his progress that made me jump right into this. I had nothing to lose and everything to gain. The passive crossovers are huge, but I found a nice little spot to tuck them away safe and sound. Put the under the cup holders in the center console. The amps under the 2nd row seats. Going to cover this in vinyl eventually. Crunch GP3000D and MB Quart DSC125.4 bridged to 2ch. 500w x 2 on tap to the front stage. I dare a musical peek to clip my signal. I was going to take some shots of my battery bank, but it's raining like crazy today so that will have to wait. I will get some pics of that when I do my HO alternator install. Thats about all I have for pics. Still got lots to do. On the to do list: I need to deaden my roof and stop the headliner from vibrating. This is driving me crazy! I need to add a layer of MLV or Ensolite to the front doors. I have an Iraggi amputator 260 amp alternator on the way that will need to be installed. I am very pleased with the way everything turned out. I have HUGE bass in the front doors now and the overall sound is very flat and crystal clear. I crossed the subs over at 50hz and let the Dynaudio take over from there. The only thing right now is my stage height is not as high as I would like. I need to do some EQ and see if I can help that out some, if not I will move the mids and tweeters up. Now that I have popped my cherry with fiberglass I am not afraid to take some risks and move the speakers around a bit to get a better sound stage. I am always open to criticism and suggestions so please do not hold back. If you see something I missed and can offer some advice I am all ears. I learn by doing and I have thick skin so don't bite your tongue if you know something I don't. Thanks for looking.

SSA Home Page just got a major face lift again. As many of you know, I love to keep on the edge of things, and wanted to put some of my web skills to work here. See what you think. Home Page New Menu system at work. loaded with icon's New Menu system at work. loaded with icon's New Product pages. Cleaner, more to the point. Rebuilt all of them.

This might work, but I'm not sure. Maybe someone can help you better than I can. Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

Try a company called PAC. They make a ton of interface/adapters for factory stereos.

I want to start out by thanking Nathan again for his great customer service!!! Nathan is a VERY friendly and helpful guy. I know it never gets old hearing a "job well done" So here I am Telling everyone what a GREAT job Nathan did. Here is my experience: I read a ton of forums and everyone just tells you to buy the biggest, baddest battery thats out there.(the D3100 if you where wondering) I Wanted a Second battery in my trunk for a good spot to connect all the runs of wire to and wanted a matching technology battery under the hood. Not nessasarily the same model but same tech. I was under the impression you wanted the bigger battery in the trunk and was still lost to what i should buy for my application? I didn't want to waste alot of money on batterys I didn't need. I called Nathan on the phone (like we did before the internet) and like I said he is a VERY helpful guy! He took the time to listen to my needs and gave me a few differant options as to what I could do and even gave me totals for cost over the phone. My needs are I have a 1999 Honda Accord 2.3L and plan on running about 3000-3500 RMS. I DO NOT compete, and I only listen at full tilt on the highway about 20 min. at a time. I still only have the stock alt. but like I said I don't tax the batterys at idle. Nathan Told me I could do the 5100 under the hood as thats the factory replacement size. Since I already Had a group34 redtop fit under the hood he told me I could use the 3400 for a little extra power. He then told me I could use the 975 in the trunk or the 1200 if I wanted a little extra power. I immediately asked why not the bigger battery in the trunk near the amps? He said this is not nessessary. He then told me what both sets of batterys would cost. as soon I hung up the phone I wondered what the diff between the S3400 and D3400 ? I called Nathan back and he was VERY friendly again and explained that they are the same battery. I went with the D3400 under the hood as my starting battery and the D1200 in the trunk. I love a little extra power and didn't break the bank ! I am very happy with my batterys and the GREAT customer service!!! Thanks again Nathan. maybe someone can pin Nathans contact info and this topic for others to leave thier experiences.

Why exactly would that make it better? When they are mounted at right angles, they are very prone to failure due to vibration. When they are mounted straight(or almost ) up, the stress is taken off the legs of the mosfets. That is one very fast way to get an idea for build quality. Correct. Failure happens due to vibration, the legs break off. Anything but perpendicular is good. Look at Sundowns, dd z1 (opposed to the z1a) and the list can go on.

Sorry i know it is way off topic, but why did you cap every first letter?? To the OP yes many different factors come in to play. unless you can test the subs with the above mentioned items for a true test, it will depend on what your ear can hear on the subs really. Unless you are willing and able(financially) to just add more till it breaks, then start over again. But that really isnt the most logical thing to do. Staying near the rated amount is a pretty safe bet, or even slightly more with a clean signal and some discretion.

4kw Of Clean Power Daily Is What I've Been Feeding Mine, There's Alot Of Factors In Play When You Do This, One Of Them Is User Ignorance And Neglect. I Won't Recommend You Do This, But You Can If You're Smart About It. You're Maybe Getting 2200-2400 Watts RMS Out Of Those Hifonics Amps, That's On A Stout Electrical System. As Long As You Play It Safe You Can Run However Much You Want, But There Won't Be Much Difference Unless You're A Meter Jockey. 2.5kw-3kw Is Plenty.

updated! Aaron got them too me already. Finally on there.... http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/xcon.html

Why exactly would that make it better? When they are mounted at right angles, they are very prone to failure due to vibration. When they are mounted straight(or almost ) up, the stress is taken off the legs of the mosfets. That is one very fast way to get an idea for build quality.

Thank you Alton for explaining. This was one of the considerations I began to think of, but would the 'canceled' freqs need to be completely out of phase for the cancellation to occur? I guess there could exist varying degrees of cancellation until which point the note would completely canceled itself out. I had just imagined that if indeed the freq needed to be 180 out of phase that the chances of that exact event where not very likely within a small space. I don't think that is what I completely had in mind. But, does that design have a specific name I can go try to read about? It is interesting. Yes, thats what I was thinking of.

Did you watch Monday? No way Shumi is The Stig. What ?!?! Schumi, the stig ? http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-1194383/Unmasked-But-Top-Gears-Stig-REALLY-F1-ace-Michael-Schumacher.html

Because their batteries tend to explode? Powermaster 4 lyfe False. Not false. You just haven't seen the thread What causes an exploded battery? - Realm of Excursion Maybe asking where or how I got the information or where I'd seen it would have been wise before just using a blanket and blind "huurrr FALSE". Hey there! It appears that you've exceeded the maximum number of posts you can view, but wait, there's a simple solution. To unlock the forum and continue viewing messages, all you need to do is sign up for a free account. The entire process takes just a few minutes so create your account now and view as many threads as you like! Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message. I'm not going to register on another one of Ant's monopoly of forums just to read a single thread. But "tend to" indicates that it's a problem with the majority of their batteries when the simple matter of fact is that far more of their batteries provide years of faithful service than the number that fail. Yes, if you search the forums you will find threads about Kinetik batteries that had some kind of problem. But guess what? You can find that about any battery used in this industry. You don't think Powermasters fail? But I don't go around spouting off about how all Powermasters tend to explode and fail because I read a thread on the internet. It happens, and generally when a product does fail the person using it fails to tell the full story and about how it was used and abused prior to failure. So I wouldn't exactly rely on a thread on an internet forum as indisputable proof to validate a certain viewpoint or trend for a entire brand. Lastly, without having in-depth knowledge of actual return rates and reasons for failures (etc) for both Kinetik and Powermaster you can not actually demonstrate with any validity that Kinetiks tend to fail more frequently than Powermasters. I'm not talking internet topics....actual verifiable #'s from the companies. So yes.......false, as I originally stated. Although it is fairly humorous that out of our conversation, you think I'm the one throwing around blind blanket statements when you opened with "their batteries tend to explode"...... Hmmm....that sounds like a pretty blind blanket statement to me......

Because their batteries tend to explode? Powermaster 4 lyfe False. Not false. You just haven't seen the thread What causes an exploded battery? - Realm of Excursion Maybe asking where or how I got the information or where I'd seen it would have been wise before just using a blanket and blind "huurrr FALSE". So by going off of your thought process if I post threads of other batteries that swell and fail means they all swell and fail? Deka batteries battery bulge...why? - The Forum Optima battery overheating? 2000 Mustang GT - Ford Mustang Forums

As mentioned above... it depends on a great many things. The more clean power the better up until a thermal or mechanical limit. 2600W of clipped boosted signal will make things more mad than 3200W of clean signal (and for all the naysayers I have plenty of measurements to prove it using our laser measurement, accelerometers, volt, current, and thermal measurements trying to find solid data in testing our drivers and new technologies). If you have plenty of voltage and current for the amps, no bass boost on the headunit or amp, a properly designed enclosure with respect to sizing, and tuning, the subsonic filter set up correct, gains correct with respect to headunit voltage, testing on an oscilloscope for clean signal at each step of the chain, then you can probably put more than our normal recommendations to it. But, this is seemingly not the norm and why we stick to our standard ratings. Thanks, Scott

Im throwing 2600 to my 15 BL all day everyday. I mash on it pretty hard and with headroom to spare for more power IMO. I think you can throw more then 3K in your position.

If they are reaching their mechanical limit, thermal limit in the box. What your listening levels are that you listen to them and for how long. If your sending only unclipped, clean power to them and so on.

also, if u dont have ur gains set right u can still clip the heck out of ur sub and blow it up. so set ur gains right to make sure ur not clipping the sub to death. upgrade ur electrical by doing the big three and possibly an extra battery or h/o alternator or both if u want to add more power later on.

that noise u are hearing is called port noise...it comes from not having enough port area. try adding 1 or 2 more and tuning to the same frequency and u will probably not have that noise.

Unless you run Fi and fosgate you don't belong on smd.com

Who cares...we're SSA, not SMD, CarAudio.com, ROE, CarStereo.com, etc, etc...

I've never even heard of a 15 foot sub. That is a hell of a big dog. So you already have a box, but aren't sharing the box volume? That is going to make whatever gets recommended an all out fail. I wasn't asking for a recommendation on a sub i have one already! The question was what is the loudest single 15" daily setup you've heard. Stupid fricking question. Its all in the install. And you didn't ask about a 15" sub, but a 15' sub. look i was asking a general question, and if you had any sense at all you would know that was a typo. If the question is so stupid, go clog up another thread!!