FI BTL specs clarification

[200dBs 0]

Ok yes The AQ3500D.1 specs say that it takes 1 ohm power @ 14.4V @ < 1% THD 4300W x 1

im not sure if the 4300w is RMS or peak anyone knoww?

[ssh 924]

Ok yes The AQ3500D.1 specs say that it takes 1 ohm power @ 14.4V @ < 1% THD 4300W x 1

im not sure if the 4300w is RMS or peak anyone knoww?

It's rms.

[200dBs 0]

Haaha you know this through experience, or is their some hidden meaning im missing?

[ShaneSauce 2]

Through experience, some amps are very underrated by their makers.

Just sit on the car audio websites and forums for a couple days until you understand exactly what you are doing. Because trust me car audio can be a real BITCH sometimes...

[200dBs 0]

Ok thanks everyone will be researching alot more, but i think im getting pretty close to buying the parts for my system.

So far im thinking 2 FI BTL N18's, 1 AQ3500d.1 match up real nice.

[gcs8 10]

running that much power you are going to need some good OFC 1/0 wire that is rated for 350-375 amps @20ft, a high output alt rated for 220-300 amps preferably at hot temps not cold, depending on if your car has a full frame or if its a unbody design you may want to run a wire not your ground as well not just grounding it to the sheet medal, if its a big SUV you should have a nice steal frame that you can cut a hole in the floor and use the nice medal as a ground. you will need 2-3 after market batterys that includes your battery under the hood so if you did 2 thats one in the back and one under the hood. use proper fusing if you have a battery in the back fuse at the front battery and at the back battery on the positive run. you will need to do your BIG 3, if you don't know what that is theres a nice wright up on it somewhere around hear. you also need to set your amp with a DMM theres a wright up on that as well. avoid low voltage it will cause clipping and can cause damage to your rather pricey investment.

also the btl N2's take 4.5-8.0cuft of air space a peace witch you need room for 9^3ft - 16^3ft depending on your needs and how much power you run. make sure you have room for a box that big, the btl's need a ported box they are not meant to be run sealed.

i wish you all the best with your build, but please don't do a crappy job and then be mad when you don't get what you want out of it because you went cheep some where.

the AQ3500.1 is a nice amp for what it is. it does rated power, it has a light that tells you when you are clipping your signal witch is great for some one who is just starting the hobby, it will help you keep your toys from dieing and let you keep your investment around for a long time. i also suggest you get a stinger volt meter for inside your cab so you can keep an eve on your voltage.

[Fi Car Audio 64]

That amp and sub combo would make for a very solid system. As mentioned by others, be sure to get things setup correctly with respect to the enclosure design/tuning, filter (especially subsonic) settings, gains, and power to the amp. Setting things up correctly will ensure that the subs lead a long happy life. They have no protection circuit like the other products... just the installer/user and their knowledge of their system.... to keep them safe.

Thanks,

Scott

[200dBs 0]

Ok thankyou alot for all the feedback does anyone know a good site for leaening about how to replace my electrical system to support this kinda of amp?

[gcs8 10]

http://glasswolf.net/papers/index.html

[Duran 387]

http://glasswolf.net/papers/index.html

I'd like to see a link provided to the original write ups, especially the ones from here

[emh9009 199]

Ok thankyou alot for all the feedback does anyone know a good site for leaening about how to replace my electrical system to support this kinda of amp?

Asked correctly and this site can do wonders for ya'

[gcs8 10]

http://glasswolf.net/papers/index.html

I'd like to see a link provided to the original write ups, especially the ones from here

not my site so i could not tell you where everything came from but its all good info, also i did not know you had to do APA on the internet.

it would be nice to see a section of pined threads that have the best info.

[Duran 387]

http://glasswolf.net/papers/index.html

I'd like to see a link provided to the original write ups, especially the ones from here

not my site so i could not tell you where everything came from but its all good info, also i did not know you had to do APA on the internet.

it would be nice to see a section of pined threads that have the best info.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/forum/60-technical-info-how-tos/

[200dBs 0]

Thanks for the site its very helpful

Alittle confusing but if i spend enough time on it

I should be able to figure it out

[Julian 641]

Before you jump into that large of a system you need to do a lot of research, doing your research first will result in less headaches and no broken equipment. That is your first option, your second option is to find a reputable and quality installer or shop (and yes they exist) to install your equipment and set it up.

The end result will depend on your electrical system, choice of equipment, and your enclosure.

[Skullz 8]

Your still a bit confused on it, think of it this way.

The rms of a given sub is 2000w so that means that each coil is capable of 1000w per coil to equal the 2000w rating of the sub, sub wattage ratings are a combination of both coils together to come up with the rating needed to advertise to us customers. Another thing is the subs with quad coils using the same principle, each coil may be recommended with 500w per coil allowing a total rms rating of 2000w for the sub which would be the advertised rating we all see.

SVC sub - 2000w RMS = 1 coil@2000w

DVC sub - 2000w RMS = 2 coils@1000w

QVC sub - 2000w RMS = 4 coils@500w

Hope that helps to clear things up.

[kirill007 52]

I hope this isn't you're first system, because if it is i wouldn't start out with that amount of power and 'expensive' gear.

It's like driving a ferrari after you just have got you're driving license...

[Duran 387]

I hope this isn't you're first system, because if it is i wouldn't start out with that amount of power and 'expensive' gear.

It's like driving a ferrari after you just have got you're driving license...

[Notorious97200 339]

I hope this isn't you're first system, because if it is i wouldn't start out with that amount of power and 'expensive' gear.

It's like driving a ferrari after you just have got you're driving license...

totally agree !

This is :suicide-santa:if it's your first system !!!

Try a smaller one with less power. A 1000 watts rms sub will be enough to make your car shake a lot !!!! And it will not stress your electrical stock system. You will do the big 3 in 0 gauge and maybe add a second battery in the back.

A Fi Bl should be enough. Or just a single Btl if you really wan to start big.

But 2 BTL 18" on a AQ 3500 : wow !! that's way too much for a beginner. even if you have the budget.

Start to focus on your front speakers first. It's easier to have a good bass than good mids & highs.

[200dBs 0]

Haha yes ok and the only thing that is confusing to me is the electrical system

I want to start big and i will not mess this up.

Btw i will post alot of the building process if anyone wants to see

[BanginGMC 23]

Haha yes ok and the only thing that is confusing to me is the electrical system

I want to start big and i will not mess this up.

Btw i will post alot of the building process if anyone wants to see

I like the confidence!

Here's a break down for you..

You need an High Output alternator from https://www.dcpowerinc.com/

You need batterie(s) from http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/categories/Batteries-%26-Electrical/

An alternator will charge your rides eletrical system once your car is started. With the equipment you are buying you will need a big alternator, see if they have a 270XP alternator for your ride. You will need big powerful batterie(s) this is just as important as the alternator. The batterie(s) will help your alternator out when there is a lot of quick/long current draw (like bass notes). If you don't have the big batterie(s) along with the alternator your alternator will get over stressed and will die very shortly. You should upgrade the batt under your hood and add another battery as well. First, buy the alternator from DC.. not some shitty ass local company. Then buy the most biggest/power battery that will fit in your stock batt location. Then get a stinger volt meter, and hook it up (easy as fuck) and watch your voltage for a couple days and if you drop into the 12's a lot get a XS D3100 secondary battery.

[200dBs 0]

Haha yes ok and the only thing that is confusing to me is the electrical system

I want to start big and i will not mess this up.

Btw i will post alot of the building process if anyone wants to see

I like the confidence!

Here's a break down for you..

You need an High Output alternator from https://www.dcpowerinc.com/

You need batterie(s) from http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/categories/Batteries-%26-Electrical/

An alternator will charge your rides eletrical system once your car is started. With the equipment you are buying you will need a big alternator, see if they have a 270XP alternator for your ride. You will need big powerful batterie(s) this is just as important as the alternator. The batterie(s) will help your alternator out when there is a lot of quick/long current draw (like bass notes). If you don't have the big batterie(s) along with the alternator your alternator will get over stressed and will die very shortly. You should upgrade the batt under your hood and add another battery as well. First, buy the alternator from DC.. not some shitty ass local company. Then buy the most biggest/power battery that will fit in your stock batt location. Then get a stinger volt meter, and hook it up (easy as fuck) and watch your voltage for a couple days and if you drop into the 12's a lot get a XS D3100 secondary battery.

OK sweet dude thanks aton, yeah im not startin out with no wimpy system, not saying 1 FI BTL 18 is wimpy or anything... haha but I will check all of this out right now will reply when i have more questions? should i start a new thread or continue on this?

[kirill007 52]

Haha yes ok and the only thing that is confusing to me is the electrical system

I want to start big and i will not mess this up.

Btw i will post alot of the building process if anyone wants to see

Well, i really hope you don't toast anything, and that is most probably bound to happen.

Good luck

[200dBs 0]

Ok i have decided that i cant afford the eletrical costs for the aq 3500d.1 amp so im going toward the aq 2200 with two of the Hdc3 18 woofers

[xAndrew225x 8]

oops. lol

Edited November 25, 2010 by xAndrewx