A Suburban A Warhorse and a pair of Double Dees

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

Finally, I'm back and running. The new alt is in, just had to improvise a bit on the replacement belt. Since I already had a longer belt lying around from my quad alt bracket mis-fit experiment. I opted to use the longer belt with the original idler pulleys the bracket came with. Any who, here is a pic of finished product.

Here are some pics of the finished battery rack install.

Here is a shot from the front seats looking towards the rear.

Got to show the processor and front stage amp some love.

Here are some pics of the subs and amp.

Lastly, a little bling.

This came out super clean!! Give yourself a pat on the back.... Oh wait, the sub's will do that!!

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

I just noticed something.

Your spacers in the rear are on the bottom of the coil. Mine are on the top and that's how the shops around here are putting them in.

Why did you put them on the bottom of the coil?

[onebadmonte 235]

I just noticed something.

Your spacers in the rear are on the bottom of the coil. Mine are on the top and that's how the shops around here are putting them in.

Why did you put them on the bottom of the coil?

Really? The manual said for my app to put them on the bottom. Dang it man, now you've got me questioning what I read. I'm gonna have to double check the manual now. Wonk, wonk, wonk....

[onebadmonte 235]

This came out super clean!! Give yourself a pat on the back.... Oh wait, the sub's will do that!!

Lol. Thanks bro.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

I just noticed something.

Your spacers in the rear are on the bottom of the coil. Mine are on the top and that's how the shops around here are putting them in.

Why did you put them on the bottom of the coil?

Really? The manual said for my app to put them on the bottom. Dang it man, now you've got me questioning what I read. I'm gonna have to double check the manual now. Wonk, wonk, wonk....

Well one of is is wrong. lol

I am going to check with the tire shop that put mine in today. Let me know what you find out and I will do the same.

I want us both to be safe!!!!!!!

[edouble101 314]

Good sleuthing Sir-Lancelot

[onebadmonte 235]

Here is a link to the instruction manual.

McBay Coil Spacers

The second page is for trucks & suvs. It says bottom for suburban. I really don't think it makes a difference. The spring is taller than than the space available when the rear suspension is a full droop.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

Here is a link to the instruction manual.

McBay Coil Spacers

The second page is for trucks & suvs. It says bottom for suburban. I really don't think it makes a difference. The spring is taller than than the space available when the rear suspension is a full droop.

Interesting.

I didnt have time to go by today, but did ask a couple friends and theirs are on top too.

I have the same spacer form the same ebay seller. lol

I am gunna ask the shop why they do it that way. Way too much weight in the back of mine to worry about throwing a spring into a wheel.

Maybe it dont matter, but i wanna hear them say that.

[onebadmonte 235]

Halloween comes a month early as I raise this thread from the dead to bring you a little rear fill excitement.

Budget speakers. Ahhhhhh!

Gruesome.

I'll be installing these speakers in the rear pillar panels. Since they are going on plastic panels and because of the intense bass vibrations I made some steel mounting rings to get the speakers securely mounted.

Here are the mounting rings painted and rivnuts installed.

One last detail I am putting on the speaker ring is a pair of rivet holes. I'll be riveting the speaker trim ring and the steel mounting ring to the rear pillar panel. That way I can install and remove the speaker as necessary without have to juggle in place the mounting ring and trim ring. Plus it'll make it easier to remove and install the panel without the speaker in it.

Here is how I got the factory speaker out and modified the panel mounting provision.

Once I got the speaker mounting holes cut, using the same score and break technique I used for the kick panel pods, I secured the steel mounting ring in place with some small c-clamps. I then drilled the clearance holes by using a small drill bit through the rivnut. With mounting holes accurately located I followed up with the proper clearance hole size drill bit.

Here I have the steel mounting ring mocked up with the mounting hardware I'll be using to mount the speaker. I am transfer drilling the rivet clearance holes in similar fashion that I did the mounting holes.

Here is a close up of the rivet securing the trim ring and mounting ring on to the panel. One thing that I did before getting the rivet on, is touching up the hole with a counter sink. This allowed the rivet to sit below the speaker mounting surface.

Modifying the speaker/panel mount compromised the integrity of the assembly. To bring back some of that integrity I'll be using some of this epoxy on the panel clip standoffs. I've had really good luck using this epoxy on plastic. On top of that it's cheap, it comes with easy to use mixing nozzles, and it's readily available at Walmart.

Here is one of the panel clip standoffs I used the epoxy on, there are four standoffs in all. I made sure to thoroughly clean the panel of dirt, dust, and any oily residue to get proper adhesion. I can't emphasize enough the importance of properly prepping the panel before laying a bead of epoxy.

Finally the light and the end of the tunnel. The panel in place with the trim ring and mounting ring in place.

Driver in place. Oh the horror!

Tah-Dah!

The End, for now. o_O

[Ohjay 116]

Looks nice, another great job.

[SpeakerBoy 64]

[CrazyKenKid 64]

very cool! if you have time can you get a pic of the speaker but panned out as if to say put the camera at the head rest and take a quick snap shot?

other then that it looks great man!