Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[ssh 924]

[dem beats 1,223]

What the fuck.

I kind of expected with the price of most guns comming down a bit I could start shopping for an Accuracy International. They are way more expensive, especially on the used market.

Eff it. I'm going to just start buying parts at this point.

Maybe someone will have a cheeper TRG in .308 and I can change it to 6.5CM

[dem beats 1,223]

Started to glue up the second box tonight.

When I get both of them with 3 long walls in I will start to make up some bracing. What is the best way to structure the internal braces?

Also, should the baffle with the woofer on it be a large side of the enclosure, or the small end?

Excited to knock sone of this out.

[ricksi30 923]

 

 

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. 

[ricksi30 923]

 

 

 

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. 

 

Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark.

[Godsmack 360]

I'd tell em that their incompetent mechanics couldn't find an issue and then drove it till it died, so it's on them. I'd ask for KBB on trade (if staying there) or 1k less in cash.

J

[sandt38 448]

 

 

 

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. 

 

 

 

Dude, that's hard to say. It is impossible that the chain jumped and only affected one cylinder. FWIW, I have personally never seen that motor torn down. It is exceptionally reliable. I would ask for a leakdown and/or compression numbers.

[sandt38 448]

 

 

 

 

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. 

 

Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark.

 

 

 

I'd get the issue looked into by a competent mechanic before selling it. It is doubtful that it is a mechanical issue, by the sounds of things. On a Nissan I would be more inclined to believe an injector failure. Odds are they tried throwing coils and plugs on it and it didn't work. Nissans are notorious for injector issues.

[topgun 262]

What the fuck.

I kind of expected with the price of most guns comming down a bit I could start shopping for an Accuracy International. They are way more expensive, especially on the used market.

Eff it. I'm going to just start buying parts at this point.

Maybe someone will have a cheeper TRG in .308 and I can change it to 6.5CM

 

 

Just get what you want built to begin with from a reliable gunsmith and be done with it.  

[topgun 262]

Started to glue up the second box tonight.

When I get both of them with 3 long walls in I will start to make up some bracing. What is the best way to structure the internal braces?

Also, should the baffle with the woofer on it be a large side of the enclosure, or the small end?

Excited to knock sone of this out.

 

3' long box?  Big damn box.  

 

Wait, the box is glued up and you want to add bracing after?  

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

 

 

 

 

 

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. 

 

Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark.

 

 

 

I'd get the issue looked into by a competent mechanic before selling it. It is doubtful that it is a mechanical issue, by the sounds of things. On a Nissan I would be more inclined to believe an injector failure. Odds are they tried throwing coils and plugs on it and it didn't work. Nissans are notorious for injector issues.

 

I agree with Seth that is more likely something non mechanical, like an injector or bad sensor somewhere sending faulty signals to the ECM. Lazy mechanics don't want anything to do with electrical gremlins. I have repaired and sold many electric gremlin cars that I got for free.  Have you retrieved any code's from the ECM? Try resetting the ECM and see if it has any effect. When an ECM is reset it will run in limp (default) mode for X amount of mile's (usaully around 50mi) until the ECM has collected enough data to recalibrate. To reset the ECM disconnect the battery cables and hold the cable ends together. This will discharge any power stored in the ECM and clear all collected data. Make sure to retrieve any codes before discharging. Some code's are false in the sense that they point you in the right direction, but not always the actual sensor. 

[///M5 2,833]

Started to glue up the second box tonight.

When I get both of them with 3 long walls in I will start to make up some bracing. What is the best way to structure the internal braces?

Also, should the baffle with the woofer on it be a large side of the enclosure, or the small end?

Excited to knock sone of this out.

Randomly and interlocked. Something like this is close to ideal:

where none of the spaces are the same. Obviously you won't go that far, but the idea holds.

[dem beats 1,223]

Started to glue up the second box tonight.

When I get both of them with 3 long walls in I will start to make up some bracing. What is the best way to structure the internal braces?

Also, should the baffle with the woofer on it be a large side of the enclosure, or the small end?

Excited to knock sone of this out.

3' long box? Big damn box.

Wait, the box is glued up and you want to add bracing after?

2'x2'7"x4'7"

I only have the 3 long sides glued together. Like a big U shape.

[dem beats 1,223]

Started to glue up the second box tonight.

When I get both of them with 3 long walls in I will start to make up some bracing. What is the best way to structure the internal braces?

Also, should the baffle with the woofer on it be a large side of the enclosure, or the small end?

Excited to knock sone of this out.

Randomly and interlocked. Something like this is close to ideal:

where none of the spaces are the same. Obviously you won't go that far, but the idea holds.

That is what I needed. Thanks.

Should I round the inside windows like that? Or is that not needed?

[dem beats 1,223]

My approach to bracing obviously changed when I decided to have it sealed not vented.

[dem beats 1,223]

Also any tips for around the subwoofer? I will need room for the ass of these things but they should absolutely not touch the bracing correct?

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

[Alysa44N 0]

Im a POS spammer.

Edited February 6, 2014 by Aaron Clinton

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

[Godsmack 360]

Started to glue up the second box tonight.When I get both of them with 3 long walls in I will start to make up some bracing. What is the best way to structure the internal braces?Also, should the baffle with the woofer on it be a large side of the enclosure, or the small end?Excited to knock sone of this out.

Randomly and interlocked. Something like this is close to ideal: where none of the spaces are the same. Obviously you won't go that far, but the idea holds.

I have to ask.....what is the purpose of bracing like this?

This is not something I am at all familiar with.

J

[///M5 2,833]

Started to glue up the second box tonight.When I get both of them with 3 long walls in I will start to make up some bracing. What is the best way to structure the internal braces?Also, should the baffle with the woofer on it be a large side of the enclosure, or the small end?Excited to knock sone of this out.

Randomly and interlocked. Something like this is close to ideal: where none of the spaces are the same. Obviously you won't go that far, but the idea holds.

I have to ask.....what is the purpose of bracing like this?

This is not something I am at all familiar with.

J

J - that is bracing. How else would you do it?

The goal of bracing is always the same. Too reduce ANY modal behavior in the acoustic or vibration space that can color sound. A honeycomb structure like the above helps not only mechanically but also acoustically. Obviously at the wavelengths of subs and not mids the structures don't need to be as tiny.

[///M5 2,833]

And FUCK me. My sled rusn GREAT on one cylinder. New coil, plugs, checked wiring and still SO FUN to find electrical faults.

[dem beats 1,223]

And FUCK me. My sled rusn GREAT on one cylinder. New coil, plugs, checked wiring and still SO FUN to find electrical faults.

Fuck man. That sucks balls!

[dem beats 1,223]

What the fuck.

I kind of expected with the price of most guns comming down a bit I could start shopping for an Accuracy International. They are way more expensive, especially on the used market.

Eff it. I'm going to just start buying parts at this point.

Maybe someone will have a cheeper TRG in .308 and I can change it to 6.5CM

Just get what you want built to begin with from a reliable gunsmith and be done with it.

Indeed. Gonna have to have a kid so I can trade in my first born.

:-)