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altoncustomtech

SLOW build on a 2001 GMC Jimmy

370 posts in this topic

Exactly as the title states, I have no idea how long this is going to take, but with the current free time rate I get between work and home it will probably take quite awhile. Good chance it will be next year before it's complete, much like the van.

The Jimmy has the Kenwood HU installed already, as are the PG RSD's. The RSD's will be getting traded out for a set of ID CTX's I traded for, can't wait to play with them. Otherwise power will be an SAX 125.2 with an SAZ 1500 running three SA-8's. Today I started on the permanent installation for the components. I have planned to build an MDF baffle that brings the mid out from behind the door panel. Today I worked on removing the factory grilles from the panels to facilitate the opening for the baffles to protrude from. Next step is to build the baffles.

You can see around the factory grille where I began grinding away plastic.

1011001753.jpg

More grinding

1011001757.jpg

Done grinding, the grill is gone.

1011001759a.jpg

1011001759.jpg

An angle die grinder is perfect for this kind of work.

1011001759b.jpg

On to the driver's door.

1011001806.jpg

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All done, ready to remove it.

1011001823.jpg

And it's out too.

1011001824.jpg

Cleaned up the edges on the holes and here's the end result, the MDF baffle will be just small enough to pass through the hole. Hopefully it will look real good when complete.

1011001828.jpg

1011001828a.jpg

Well, hopefully I'll be on to the baffles and have them done in the next couple of days.

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You gave me an idea for my door panels :fing34:

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is this on a 2 door jimmy? i have a 2 door blazer and am still trying to find tweeter location/how to bring the speaker away from the door without doing kicks

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You gave me an idea for my door panels :fing34:

Thanks, glad I could help. :D

did you use the same tools to cut out section for the tweeters?

No. Actually I used my dremel tool, a spiral cutting bit, and a VERY steady hand. I cut a rough hole out smaller than I needed first, then slowly went around it until I had a perfect hole for the tweeter.

is this on a 2 door jimmy? i have a 2 door blazer and am still trying to find tweeter location/how to bring the speaker away from the door without doing kicks

Yes this is a 2 door Jimmy AND stay tuned as I may be doing exactly what you're looking for without building a custom kick panel or pod.

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Moved per Alton's request.

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Moved per Alton's request.

Thank you sir, want to keep the builds with the Team. Was too damn tired last night to realize I started it in the wrong section. I'm probably lucky all the pics worked, lol.

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Tuned in brother :popcorn: Lots of builds coming to the IAK Team over the upcoming months :drink40:

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It's official. Anyone crazy enough to not modify the door panel to get the mid out from behind it is wasting their money, especially if they have spent big $$$ on quality components. As the pictures indicate above I removed the factory grilles from the door panels so that I can get the mid out from behind the panel with the MDF baffles (still under construction). I drive the truck for an hour everyday to and from work so I get a fair amount of road time listening to it. Immediately noticeable was that the sound stage was up off the floor. It used to sound like almost all instruments were playing below the dash primarily and they also sounded stifled. With the factory grilles out of the way the sound stage has risen up to the top of the dash and every instrument, especially the guitars and vocals, no longer sounds like it's being forced through the wall of a cardboard box. The most impressive difference I noticed was in the response of the components. The PG RSD's have been known for some time as some very good budget components. Mostly due to how loud they can get and still sound decent, especially for the money. I noticed that they seemed to have a bit of a peaky response in the 1.5khz to 3khz region and figured it had to do with the cheaper build nature of the set. I'm proud to say that the peak in the response seems to have been caused by reflections off the factory grilles causing some sort of odd order harmonic interaction. With the grilles gone the songs I used to turn down due to the ear splitting response now play just as smooth and defined as the rest. At any rate, anyone ever debating on building kick panels, door pods or any other custom modification that results in the speakers not being stuffed behind the door panels should stop thinking about it and do it. I never imagined the factory panels hurt the speakers response THIS bad. I mean, logic told me it had to have some affect but I never imagined it was this dramatic.

Sorry for the rant guys, just excited.

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I couldn't agree with you more about the factory location hindering perfomance of the mid. Damn, you got it easy with that perfect circle in the panel to work away from. :popcorn:

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your rant is actually a good one in my mind. it makes my decision making much easier for when i do the same. not sure if it'll be soon or next spring. my main reason for not wanting kicks is because i'm 6'3 and have really big feet so giving up floor space in not really an option for me

how big is the factory grille, and how much depth do you have from actual panel to inner door?

Edited by Mtopper
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Moved per Alton's request.

Thank you sir, want to keep the builds with the Team. Was too damn tired last night to realize I started it in the wrong section. I'm probably lucky all the pics worked, lol.

thank you for the supportive jesture Alton, that is cool of you bro!

your ever so breif introduction to this new build already has alot to offer others ....that too, is super freaking cool.....

helping others to achieve thier goals..... very important!

thx

chop

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I couldn't agree with you more about the factory location hindering perfomance of the mid. Damn, you got it easy with that perfect circle in the panel to work away from. :popcorn:

I figured if anyone knew what I was talking about it would be you. It's got me itching to play with the doors on the van. Gotta come up with a plan for it! :D And believe me, I know how lucky I was the door panel made it so easy. :P

your rant is actually a good one in my mind. it makes my decision making much easier for when i do the same. not sure if it'll be soon or next spring. my main reason for not wanting kicks is because i'm 6'3 and have really big feet so giving up floor space in not really an option for me

how big is the factory grille, and how much depth do you have from actual panel to inner door?

Thanks, and you won't be disappointed by the results. I actually haven't measured the hole there yet, the depth is about 1.75". I'll be using three layers of 3/4" MDF to build my baffles so the rings will be about 2.25" tall, should stick out the door about a half inch minimum, about 3/4 maximum as the depth changes a little as you go around the hole due to the way the panel was molded.

Moved per Alton's request.

Thank you sir, want to keep the builds with the Team. Was too damn tired last night to realize I started it in the wrong section. I'm probably lucky all the pics worked, lol.

thank you for the supportive jesture Alton, that is cool of you bro!

your ever so breif introduction to this new build already has alot to offer others ....that too, is super freaking cool.....

helping others to achieve thier goals..... very important!

thx

chop

I figure I have a hard enough time making it to support the Team at shows and events I damn well better support it any other way I can. LOL

I also believe that more people should be doing more to help others out, it's one of the many problems in today's world IMHO. If following my builds and using any of my mad methods to do someone else's build can help that someone else out to achieve their goals then I have achieved my goal in the matter of helping others. A win-win for both.

plans on deadening these areas ......?

Yes sir... I have the supplies on hand already too. Once the rings are cut and the baffles are built I will apply the deadener and finish the doors. Plans after that are to deaden other key area's of the truck and build and install the amp rack and amps. Hopefully when that's complete it will still be good enough weather to build the box.

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A little more work done today.

Cut these out the other day, the shape matches the shape of the factory plastic speaker baffle, holder, thingy.

1017001343.jpg

Getting all the tools out and ready. Been awhile since I used the little jig, forgot it only goes to 7.5" needed to cut out 7.25" circles but since the cuts are measured to the outside so they had to be 7.75" ooops... oh well... with the SKIL it's as easy as changing the bases.

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Getting some circles done :D

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Test cut out.

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Showing the recess for the top layer the mids will mount in.

1017001559a.jpg

Love using a router to cut out circles. Got the depth just a hair shallower than the 3/4" depth of the MDF so thin I could finish the cuts with my pocket knife.

1017001559.jpg

Here's the last test fit.

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Here's what the baffles will basically look like once they're done. I still have to mark the alignment of the rings to the baffle through the hole in the panel to finish them up.

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Glued and ready to put the rings together.

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Rings are assembled.

1017001625.jpg

Hopefully I can get the rings aligned on the baffle and begin deadening the door in the next couple of days.

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Looks like its coming along smoothly!! These should be good and solid mount for the mid. How are you finishing them?

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Looking good brotha.

:drink40:

Thanks man.

Looks like its coming along smoothly!! These should be good and solid mount for the mid. How are you finishing them?

Thanks, yeah they should be plenty solid for a 6.5". Once they're completely built I'll smooth them up and be painting them the same color as the truck.

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Ah, geez, October?!?!? Yeah I hate winter.

This build will hopefully be kickin' back off very soon. I just won some Damplifier Pro that I have to install and review for the contest I won it in, so I'll be using that to get this one moving again. Also, I'll be changing from the ID CTX components to the Bravox CS60K's I bought off TRP recently.

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A small update to post up here. My brotha from anotha motha J-ROADTATTS was a real gem and sent me a couple of old Type R components tweeter cups to help out with the install. It seems that the flush mount tweeter cups for the PG RSD tweets are much larger than the Bravox CS60K tweeter's flush mount. Would have had the same problem with the ID's as well. So I got to working on it a little this weekend and was able to verify for certain that the Type R cups should work fine, of course with a little modification. On to the pics....

Here's a shot of one of the Type R cups.

0515011605.jpg

Took the dremel and removed about 1/16" of material from the inside of the cup, you can see the tooling marks in this pic.

0515011605a.jpg

Here's a couple of pics with the Bravox tweet slid comfortably into the Type R cup. Fits like a glove, but I'll secure it with a little CA glue before installing into the vehicle.

0515011608.jpg

0515011607.jpg

Hopefully I'll get the Damp pro and components installed VERY soon and then I'll be getting to work running wires and building the amp rack and enclosure for the SA-8's!!!! Woohoo, thank GOD for Spring time!!!!

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I was lazy and went wt the coaxial speakers lol.

I was talking with the guys at cdt audio and they told me

I have an alpine type r 6.5 and cdt 8" sub, was wondering would it be better to put both speakers lower in the door?

The 6.5 is in the stock location which is higher up(98 navigator), but the 8 is going to have to be placed lower due to clearing issues regardless.

Should i patch up the stock hole and just put them both at the bottom of the door?

Thanks in advance

It’s never good to have speakers away from each other and high in a door is also no good

JG

CDT support

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I don't have any direct info to back what i'm bout to say up but i've heard many bad comments directed toward CDT because their engineering of the products they sell is crap and comes into question if they even know how to help people reach any goal properly...

This may also go along the lines of how overpriced they are too but i dont know.

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lol quit highjacking comments

Hey i've heard bad things about alot of companies

DC power

Kinitik

Excessive amperage

stetsom

ect ect ect

*sniff *sniff

hater?

btw they work fine for me

edit: I only paid $60

for the pair

Edited by djjdnap
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