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Regarding T/S parameters and box building

16 posts in this topic

If you find T/S parameters, or we give them to you, please do not plug these numbers in your box building program and expect to get correct box sizes. There is another stickied thread on here with listed recommended box sizes and port dimensions. We have been receiving tons of emails and messages wanting to know T/S parameters on our subwoofers, just so they can build "the right box" for the subs.

Please follow our recommended box sizes for optimum performance from your subwoofers!

Recommended box sizes

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i recently noticed in the SSA store that ts specs are now being provided for most of the IA subs

are those specs correct & is IA now sharing its specs with the public ?

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If you find T/S parameters, or we give them to you, please do not plug these numbers in your box building program and expect to get correct box sizes. There is another stickied thread on here with listed recommended box sizes and port dimensions. We have been receiving tons of emails and messages wanting to know T/S parameters on our subwoofers, just so they can build "the right box" for the subs.

Please follow our recommended box sizes for optimum performance from your subwoofers!

Recommended box sizes

I've been looking for specs myself and came across this old post, which is really disturbing. "optimum performance" for what? power handling? SPL? LFE? SQ? One optimum box size for say a civic isn't going to be as optimum as one for a suburban. An optimum box for a SPL competitor is totally different than an optimum box for a SQ competitor.

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If you find T/S parameters, or we give them to you, please do not plug these numbers in your box building program and expect to get correct box sizes. There is another stickied thread on here with listed recommended box sizes and port dimensions. We have been receiving tons of emails and messages wanting to know T/S parameters on our subwoofers, just so they can build "the right box" for the subs.

Please follow our recommended box sizes for optimum performance from your subwoofers!

Recommended box sizes

I've been looking for specs myself and came across this old post, which is really disturbing. "optimum performance" for what? power handling? SPL? LFE? SQ? One optimum box size for say a civic isn't going to be as optimum as one for a suburban. An optimum box for a SPL competitor is totally different than an optimum box for a SQ competitor.

There are ranges for a reason... You use what works for you... And obviously you can tweak the specs a bit to fit your needs... It's all about testing really...

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Modeling is a lot cheaper and faster than building and rebuilding. It would also allow me to model alignments other than ported, such as various horn alignments.

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Maybe... but modeling alone will NEVER tell you what's its going to do in the real world. Very few programs can model for a given room size, fewer (if any) still can model for the interior of a vehicle. How the modeling software states it's going to perform in an open space is completely different from how it's going to act in the environment you're planning on using it in. Reflections, resonances, and other environmental variables can only be tested for from my limited experience.

If a manufacturer has done real world testing and discovered a range that they find offers the best overall performance in a multitude of environments then that should be enough for anyone who's not capable of determining what type, alignment, tuning etc. would be necessary to attain the goals they've intended to use a particular driver to fulfill.

Hence the purpose behind building, testing, rebuilding and retesting until a person either reaches the goals they were trying for or can live the compromises the encounter. The majority of people are not perfectionists and often live with whatever results they get from a first try and there's nothing wrong with that. Hell, on most occasions I do so myself unless its a complete miss. Then I don't hesitate to recheck, rebuild and retest it until I do get what I want.

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all correct and I understand all that. However it will also tell me things like excursion, impedence curve, group delay, frequency response (albeit withough reflections and such), and other things which quickly tell me if a given choise is even worth experimenting with.

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You take any of these high end subs(the ones with no T/S parameters listed). Namely the ones with a qts of .3 and under and all the free programs out there are going to tell you that you are going to need a box under 1/2 a cubic feet.

And when you plug in a decently sized volume you'll see a huge spike at tuning. This will cause folks to freak out and think something is wrong. So the easiest and best thing to do is tell people what to use.

Nick Wright knows what he's doing. He designed the subs so he knows what box to put them in.

And as far as modeling to know what to use in a certain vehicle, unless you are modeling using LEAP or another higher end modeling software that's not going to happen. All free or basic modeling software models in a Anechoic environment.

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I see lots of high end subs that the manufacturers list T/S parameters for. It shouldn't be that hard.

Telling me what to use from a predescribed list assumes you know exactly what I want.

I'm sure Nick is a genius sub designer. That's fantastic. But seeing as I didn't design the sub, I'd like to know what their specs are at a basic level. T/S aren't everything, but it gets me going on what I want to look at.

quick and dirty is WinISD, sometimes bassbox pro for fun, but for most stuff it is HornResp. Sure it is free, but it will model almost any enclosure you can possibly think of. However that isn't the point. A predescribed list also won't tell me what to use in a cetain vehicle, with certain listening requirements either will it?

My research today on this very topic (IA and T/S) gives me the conclusion that they don't care to sell to a customer that has even a basic knowledge of such things. That's ok, that's their perogative.

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I see lots of high end subs that the manufacturers list T/S parameters for. It shouldn't be that hard.

Telling me what to use from a predescribed list assumes you know exactly what I want.

I'm sure Nick is a genius sub designer. That's fantastic. But seeing as I didn't design the sub, I'd like to know what their specs are at a basic level. T/S aren't everything, but it gets me going on what I want to look at.

quick and dirty is WinISD, sometimes bassbox pro for fun, but for most stuff it is HornResp. Sure it is free, but it will model almost any enclosure you can possibly think of. However that isn't the point. A predescribed list also won't tell me what to use in a cetain vehicle, with certain listening requirements either will it?

My research today on this very topic (IA and T/S) gives me the conclusion that they don't care to sell to a customer that has even a basic knowledge of such things. That's ok, that's their perogative.

I agree to a point with that statement, but remember most peple have no clue and it makes things easier just point them in the right direction.

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Nothing unless you are using Mathcad or LEAP can tell you in vehicle response. Unless there is a new program that I'm not aware of.

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I agree with that too, in which case those customers should be given a list of recommendations and that's fine. Most manufacturers give recommendations based on a common denominator. The average guy that wants it loud and wants to throw a lot of power at it. JL does that for example. Not all of us want to put 1000's of watts of power all the time at 40 or 60hz :)

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Came across this and want to share my own thoughts. Ive used WinSD, HornResp, BB Pro, and some others. Ive modeled and built enclosures based on these programs. After doing actual "real world" test with a WT3/DATS Ive found all to be inacurate. Better to build and test in "real world" then rely on software.

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Came across this and want to share my own thoughts. Ive used WinSD, HornResp, BB Pro, and some others. Ive modeled and built enclosures based on these programs. After doing actual "real world" test with a WT3/DATS Ive found all to be inacurate. Better to build and test in "real world" then rely on software.

If you spent the time to understand the real world you wouldn't say that. I find it unconscionable that you are offering a build/test rebuild/test circle as an option. That's flat out laughable. I'd like to see you sit an audio store and tell someone that they need to build 5 enclosures to get one that sounds "right"
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Im not stating that you need to build/test/build/test. But stated that relying completly on software to give you real world results wont work. Use the recomended enclosure specs the manufacture give you and youll be fine. If you want exact tuning/maximum output real world building/testing rules all.

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Im not stating that you need to build/test/build/test. But stated that relying completly on software to give you real world results wont work. Use the recomended enclosure specs the manufacture give you and youll be fine. If you want exact tuning/maximum output real world building/testing rules all.

Curious, were your results different then the software when testing in an open environment?

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