Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[sandt38 448]

6L80e transmission fluid was changed. Pan dropped, new Napa filter & gasket, and then filled. Car started with the hoses off on the cooler until it ran clean. Shut off, hoses replaced and the transmission filled.

Instantly post change doing a WOT run the truck would get to 5500rpm or so and then pop out of gear. Engine then pegged redline, stopped itself, I yank foot off gas and the truck shifts into 2nd.

My guess/hope is the filter is either a piece of shit, was knocked loose or ...

If not, curious how bad it will be. Also wondering how you find a transmission rebuild shop. I don't really want to send mine someplace. I've found upgraded clutch packs etc to put in, but figure Kennedy/Aamco and the like are not the places to have do it.

 

Never, and I mean never flush a tranny.

 

Never, and I mean never, have Aamco built a trans... Particularly one behind a performance engine.

 

Find a good local GM performance shop and ask who does their transmission work.

[sandt38 448]

If the tranny started whining then you may have a filter issue. It will cause a cavitation whine, similar to the sound of a Ford PS pump. If not, no bueno muchacho.

[mikel7829 90]

 

6L80e transmission fluid was changed. Pan dropped, new Napa filter & gasket, and then filled. Car started with the hoses off on the cooler until it ran clean. Shut off, hoses replaced and the transmission filled.

Instantly post change doing a WOT run the truck would get to 5500rpm or so and then pop out of gear. Engine then pegged redline, stopped itself, I yank foot off gas and the truck shifts into 2nd.

My guess/hope is the filter is either a piece of shit, was knocked loose or ...

If not, curious how bad it will be. Also wondering how you find a transmission rebuild shop. I don't really want to send mine someplace. I've found upgraded clutch packs etc to put in, but figure Kennedy/Aamco and the like are not the places to have do it.

 

Never, and I mean never flush a tranny.

 

Never, and I mean never, have Aamco built a trans... Particularly one behind a performance engine.

 

Find a good local GM performance shop and ask who does their transmission work.

 

Speaking of trannies, I will finally be able to put the Transgo-HD2 kit in the 4l60E on my 4th vacation..Also going to tear the interior down and deaden as well,have decided to go with the Kno Knoise Kolossus Edition..100mil 

[Stephen93s10 40]

Got anything new going on with the camaro mike?

[mikel7829 90]

Got anything new going on with the camaro mike?

Naw... Not really man..But I am fixing to have a few weeks off,And I have a lot of stuff I have bought to play with ready to be installed...Found a hit on a T-Type engine from a co-worker if I do not decide to go with the remanufactured GNX stage 2 block. 

[///M5 2,833]

6L80e transmission fluid was changed. Pan dropped, new Napa filter & gasket, and then filled. Car started with the hoses off on the cooler until it ran clean. Shut off, hoses replaced and the transmission filled.

Instantly post change doing a WOT run the truck would get to 5500rpm or so and then pop out of gear. Engine then pegged redline, stopped itself, I yank foot off gas and the truck shifts into 2nd.

My guess/hope is the filter is either a piece of shit, was knocked loose or ...

If not, curious how bad it will be. Also wondering how you find a transmission rebuild shop. I don't really want to send mine someplace. I've found upgraded clutch packs etc to put in, but figure Kennedy/Aamco and the like are not the places to have do it.

 

Never, and I mean never flush a tranny.

 

Never, and I mean never, have Aamco built a trans... Particularly one behind a performance engine.

 

Find a good local GM performance shop and ask who does their transmission work.

Doh. Now of course I am curious as to why what was done to the trans was wrong.

[Stephen93s10 40]

Got anything new going on with the camaro mike?

Naw... Not really man..But I am fixing to have a few weeks off,And I have a lot of stuff I have bought to play with ready to be installed...Found a hit on a T-Type engine from a co-worker if I do not decide to go with the remanufactured GNX stage 2 block.

What size engine is in it now?

[///M5 2,833]

If the tranny started whining then you may have a filter issue. It will cause a cavitation whine, similar to the sound of a Ford PS pump. If not, no bueno muchacho.

If that only happens when I had issues popping out I wouldn't have heard it. Normal driving it didn't....unless it is really masked by the S/C whine.

Making a run from a dig, 1st gear 5500rpm's or so is where it jumped out. At that rpm in only 2 runs I almost missed my truck hgetting to the rev limiter, pretty instantaneous in gear and then BAM not. Backfired, the second time.

[sandt38 448]

A stage 2 block? Everything must be custom. We used to make intakes for them as stock GN intakes do not fit. Special exhaust manifolds are required too. Heads use 6 extra bolts, so they are specific. Cranks are not standard fare either. A typical stage 2 build was upwards of $20-25K. Blocks alone were $6 grand.

 

Stock Vin7 engines easily handle 700HP for under $5,000. This is forged internals, crank girdle, Cloyes double roller, +/-3 degree chain set, cam, Mid 80's Chevy 350 springs (stock 3.8 springs could float valves when turning over 5,500 RPM), high volume oil pump and worked timing cover (for oil flow) and wire lock Fel-Pro head gaskets (for $500 more we cut receiver grooves and inletted steel o-rings on head-block surfaces to facilitate sealing with high boost applications.

 

Of course, it is the go fast goodies outside that add up. Stage 2 go fast goodies are still additional to the initial $20K build costs, and they will cost more in some cases as they are rare and very custom.

[MKader17 332]

I'll post some picks to see if there is a lot of correction in order.

Doing it by hand will save me quite a bit of cash.

[sandt38 448]

 

 

6L80e transmission fluid was changed. Pan dropped, new Napa filter & gasket, and then filled. Car started with the hoses off on the cooler until it ran clean. Shut off, hoses replaced and the transmission filled.

Instantly post change doing a WOT run the truck would get to 5500rpm or so and then pop out of gear. Engine then pegged redline, stopped itself, I yank foot off gas and the truck shifts into 2nd.

My guess/hope is the filter is either a piece of shit, was knocked loose or ...

If not, curious how bad it will be. Also wondering how you find a transmission rebuild shop. I don't really want to send mine someplace. I've found upgraded clutch packs etc to put in, but figure Kennedy/Aamco and the like are not the places to have do it.

 

Never, and I mean never flush a tranny.

 

Never, and I mean never, have Aamco built a trans... Particularly one behind a performance engine.

 

Find a good local GM performance shop and ask who does their transmission work.

 

Doh. Now of course I am curious as to why what was done to the trans was wrong.

 

 

Overstroking of valves in varnish caked bores can create binding in the valve bodies. Dirt, varnish, and contaminants that are happily nestling in nooks and crannies can be cooked and dislodged. In some cases dry bores can result causing burrs and ridges that bind valves and check balls. You may get lucky and run a nice cleaner (like the BG chemicals) that can dissolve these solids and break shit free, but I don't want to flood you with false hopes. A good builder could get into the valve body and fix things for you.

[mikel7829 90]

A stage 2 block? Everything must be custom. We used to make intakes for them as stock GN intakes do not fit. Special exhaust manifolds are required too. Heads use 6 extra bolts, so they are specific. Cranks are not standard fare either. A typical stage 2 build was upwards of $20-25K. Blocks alone were $6 grand.

Stock Vin7 engines easily handle 700HP for under $5,000. This is forged internals, crank girdle, Cloyes double roller, +/-3 degree chain set, cam, Mid 80's Chevy 350 springs (stock 3.8 springs could float valves when turning over 5,500 RPM), high volume oil pump and worked timing cover (for oil flow) and wire lock Fel-Pro head gaskets (for $500 more we cut receiver grooves and inletted steel o-rings on head-block surfaces to facilitate sealing with high boost applications.

Found a stage 2 gnx block for $3,300.00..Do you think a t-type would be ideal?

I found the gnx stage to block complete re built for $3,300.00 ..You think a t-type would be ideal?

Of course, it is the go fast goodies outside that add up. Stage 2 go fast goodies are still additional to the initial $20K build costs, and they will cost more in some cases as they are rare and very custom.

[mikel7829 90]

Got anything new going on with the camaro mike?

Naw... Not really man..But I am fixing to have a few weeks off,And I have a lot of stuff I have bought to play with ready to be installed...Found a hit on a T-Type engine from a co-worker if I do not decide to go with the remanufactured GNX stage 2 block.

What size engine is in it now?

Semi-built little v6..what was in it when I bought it.lol

[mikel7829 90]

A stage 2 block? Everything must be custom. We used to make intakes for them as stock GN intakes do not fit. Special exhaust manifolds are required too. Heads use 6 extra bolts, so they are specific. Cranks are not standard fare either. A typical stage 2 build was upwards of $20-25K. Blocks alone were $6 grand.

Stock Vin7 engines easily handle 700HP for under $5,000. This is forged internals, crank girdle, Cloyes double roller, +/-3 degree chain set, cam, Mid 80's Chevy 350 springs (stock 3.8 springs could float valves when turning over 5,500 RPM), high volume oil pump and worked timing cover (for oil flow) and wire lock Fel-Pro head gaskets (for $500 more we cut receiver grooves and inletted steel o-rings on head-block surfaces to facilitate sealing with high boost applications.

Of course, it is the go fast goodies outside that add up. Stage 2 go fast goodies are still additional to the initial $20K build costs, and they will cost more in some cases as they are rare and very custom.

Found a gnx stage 2 block for $3,330.00

Would you think a t-type would be ideal?

[///M5 2,833]

Found these parts/transmissions:

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/6l80e_performance_transmissions_torque_converters_parts_6l90e.htm

Excerpt of interest:

STOCK PLUS + 2

#6L80MK Pterodactyl #2. This complete 6L80E rebuild kit is a perfect upgrade to street/strip vehicle. This 6l80E kit contains everything you will need to rebuild your transmission to a much improved version of Stock unit. We Started by using Raybestos High energy clutch kit that contains stock thickness Raybestos High energy clutches. The clutches are stock thickness and double sided. This kit uses Raybestos 6L80E #RCPS-189 Raybestos 6L80 Stage-1 Red friction Module Kit and #STMGM-06K 6L80 Kolene steel clutch module listed above.

This rebuild kit also includes the Sonnax Zip kit. The ZIP kit addresses many of the issues inherent with this unit, and it also includes the larger boost valve that allows you to achieve 300 psi on your 6l80E unit. This larger 6L80E boost valve is necessary to keep your 3-5-R and 4-5-6 Clutch packs living in this unit. We made sure we addressed the issues with the input shaft and hub, replacing it with our billet one. This eliminates all the hub dampener failures we have seen lately. We also include the Sonnax 4-5-6 piston special piston and backing plate. This new machined piston and backing plate helps with the coning that wants to occur with the 4-5-6 clutch circuit by giving you a much wider apply base. The pump slide spring is also included for high rpm situations and keeps the pressure stable throughout the RPM range. This combo kit also includes a 6L80E Torrington thrust bearing kit, as well as a bushing kit for the unit. New high flow wide mouth 6L80E filter and High Performance 6L80E overhaul kit that includes all the gaskets and seals needed to rebuild your 6L80E transmission. Cost $1999.00

*********

Assembled it seems to be a $5700 transmission. $2k in parts. Leaves me a lot of space on a builder. Don't quite understand buying that one built when for a G you can have the 1200hp version.

[///M5 2,833]

From this thread:

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/sponsor-projects-builds-customers-trucks-209/2012-sierra-rcsb-5-3-build-thread-%40-new-era-performance-505827/page9/

So you don't have to click

Time to beef up the transmission, big thanks to PATC transmissioncenter.com, be sure to check them out for your 6l80 transmission needs. I am going to try my best here to post a bunch of pics so that you guys can see what is going to be done in this transmission overhaul.

[///M5 2,833]

More pics from inside the transmission:

Below is the old 456 output shaft and clutch hub (on the left), and the new supplied 456 billet output shaft and clutch hub. The hub diameter is smaller, which allows for a smaller inner diameter clutch giving each clutch more surface contact area (wider) as well as allowing us to fit one more clutch in due to the design, also comes with a stronger piston with the clutch pack.

Old 456 clutch pack vs. new one supplied, not that the clutches are now wider in reference to the previously mentioned info.

Another pic of the stock 456 clutch pack vs the new one supplied.

Below is the front clutch on the stock 456 clutch pack, which shows a tiny bit of burn/slip which isn't too bad, this would have lasted through this year anyway, but I doubt much longer than that because we race this truck quite often

Below is the stock 1234 clutch pack, which is in fine condition.

Below is the stock 26 clutch pack, which was also in fine condition.

Below is the stock 35r clutch pack, this one is not in too good of shape. This is a bit premature, but I never finished street tuning this shift (not trying to make excuses lol) because I have been overwhelmed tuning customer vehicles lately. This was bound to happen eventually at this power level the way I drive this truck anyway though. The clutches aren't totally shot, but you can see that there has been some excessive slipping/burning from the heat marks in the steel plates.

Old 35r clutch pack vs. new supplied clutch pack.

Welding up the clutch shells...

The clutch shells welded up. The shafts on these are friction welded, so we tig welded them to reinforce them.

I hope I was as informative as possible for you guys. The 6L80 transmission is not extremely difficult to rebuild for you "do it yourself" guys, maybe this will help some guys out. All these parts are available at transmissioncenter.com and they are very affordable. It is much more difficult to properly calibrate (tune) this transmission than it is to rebuild it.

I wish I could have got some more pics, but I was on and off tuning yesterday and did the best I could, if you have any question, please feel free to post them, and I will do my best to answer.

[///M5 2,833]

 

 

 

6L80e transmission fluid was changed. Pan dropped, new Napa filter & gasket, and then filled. Car started with the hoses off on the cooler until it ran clean. Shut off, hoses replaced and the transmission filled.

Instantly post change doing a WOT run the truck would get to 5500rpm or so and then pop out of gear. Engine then pegged redline, stopped itself, I yank foot off gas and the truck shifts into 2nd.

My guess/hope is the filter is either a piece of shit, was knocked loose or ...

If not, curious how bad it will be. Also wondering how you find a transmission rebuild shop. I don't really want to send mine someplace. I've found upgraded clutch packs etc to put in, but figure Kennedy/Aamco and the like are not the places to have do it.

 

Never, and I mean never flush a tranny.

 

Never, and I mean never, have Aamco built a trans... Particularly one behind a performance engine.

 

Find a good local GM performance shop and ask who does their transmission work.

 

Doh. Now of course I am curious as to why what was done to the trans was wrong.

 

 

Overstroking of valves in varnish caked bores can create binding in the valve bodies. Dirt, varnish, and contaminants that are happily nestling in nooks and crannies can be cooked and dislodged. In some cases dry bores can result causing burrs and ridges that bind valves and check balls. You may get lucky and run a nice cleaner (like the BG chemicals) that can dissolve these solids and break shit free, but I don't want to flood you with false hopes. A good builder could get into the valve body and fix things for you.

 

Perhaps my terminology sucks as I am a hack.

Is there some different pressure that causes the valves to overstroke just by unplugging the lines from the cooler?

ie, in my case the steps were:

Pan dropped

Filter changed

Re-assembled

Filled

Line pulled off coming out of the cooler and placed into an oil catching receptacle

Car started, left in park, ran until the transmission fluid looked clean

Car shut off

Lines back on

Tranny filled to operating level

Car driven, level checked hot and adjusted

[///M5 2,833]

By my definition that is flushing out the tranny.  Meaning removing the old tranny fluid that is in there.  If by flush you meant some chemical additive well then I suck at car terms.

[///M5 2,833]

If that fucked my tranny I am confused, but perhaps I started to fuck it before I took the truck in for the fluid change.

[ssh 924]

You're just too hard on the tranny.

[ssh 924]

Gotta give him a break.

[mikel7829 90]

It is a hot and humid mofo here right now been like that almost for a week now..Almost 80already and humidity is fuckin 95% shit in the garden is starting to wilt..

[topgun 262]

Supposed to be a heat index of 106* here today.  

[topgun 262]

You live in Mississippi.  That should be expected.