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Mark LaFountain

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That said, is there a trimmer that is a better option?

As they are all the same price... Normally I agree with your feelings on tools only being specialized. In this case I feel the disassembly will add to the lifespan of my trimmer as I can replace the tool side of it gets damaged.

Since there is no difference in price that I can find, and I get to try other tools on the super cheep.....

The pole saw is especially smexy

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If you buy a 2st get a Japanese one

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I went through 3 cheapos first as well btw

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I went through 3 cheapos first as well btw

At least the company is good with Seth and yourself in hard learned lessons.

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Seth,

Do you actually work at a Toyota dealership?

I really want the rear sway bar from my Tundra, but would like to see if I can get it cheaper than 250 (not installed) at the dealer.

J

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Sean I was thinking about you when I was searching for a disc rear for the Camaro...

Not a bad deal at all on this 2012 6L90e with only 11,000 miles..

http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/5030918710.html

Found one here for $600....but with 135k. Since it needs a full build anyways that may not matter. I am just confused now after my recent discussions with different 6 spd tranny experts.

Part of me wants to bulid the 90, part the 80, and part the 4 speed. sad.png

4L80e?

That is the bombproof solution, just don't really want to go backwards.

Stick with 6 speed!

Seems to me that you turn the truck into a drag car with a 4 speed.

It seems to me you would have more fun in drivability with a 6 speed.

Not so sure that it will help. 1st is useless and it has 2 overdrives. Basically means that it is a 4spd for "driveability"

The reason I want to keep it though is different. It is completely TCM controlled. Figure if I don't learn how to tweak and adjust that now it will only become harder down the road.

Obviously I am torn all over the board. The bummer would be to do the 6 speed and then have it fail in a year. The 4 speed will NOT have that be the problem.

Is 1st gear useless because of the gap between it and second? If not then raise the gearing in the rear end.

Even if it is the gap, would it help towing?

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I'm only pushing the 6 because I always felt like 4 speed was ancient as soon as I started driving.

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Seth,

Do you actually work at a Toyota dealership?

I really want the rear sway bar from my Tundra, but would like to see if I can get it cheaper than 250 (not installed) at the dealer.

J

Any aftermarket ones?

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http://www.homedepot.com/p/ECHO-Reconditioned-2-Cycle-21-2-cc-Straight-Shaft-Gas-Trimmer-SRM-225/205423815?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cVF&gclid=Cj0KEQjwn86sBRDroPiR0LrSzNYBEiQAzOaSYPksK9FeFucuL4T7I6PHJzG_JzRgzpXQ_kubE2HWG_caAvYQ8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

That is what I have if I recall right.  Most important thing to me was enough power, being able to take the quick change head, and have a LONG shaft.  I wish it were a foot longer, but there wasn't really anything I could get that was at the time.

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Seth,

Do you actually work at a Toyota dealership?

I really want the rear sway bar from my Tundra, but would like to see if I can get it cheaper than 250 (not installed) at the dealer.

J

He doesn't. but you don't want a Toyota one anyways.  Aftermarket.

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Sean I was thinking about you when I was searching for a disc rear for the Camaro...

Not a bad deal at all on this 2012 6L90e with only 11,000 miles..

http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/5030918710.html

Found one here for $600....but with 135k. Since it needs a full build anyways that may not matter. I am just confused now after my recent discussions with different 6 spd tranny experts.

Part of me wants to bulid the 90, part the 80, and part the 4 speed. sad.png

4L80e?
That is the bombproof solution, just don't really want to go backwards.

Stick with 6 speed!

Seems to me that you turn the truck into a drag car with a 4 speed.

It seems to me you would have more fun in drivability with a 6 speed.

Not so sure that it will help. 1st is useless and it has 2 overdrives. Basically means that it is a 4spd for "driveability"

The reason I want to keep it though is different. It is completely TCM controlled. Figure if I don't learn how to tweak and adjust that now it will only become harder down the road.

Obviously I am torn all over the board. The bummer would be to do the 6 speed and then have it fail in a year. The 4 speed will NOT have that be the problem.

Is 1st gear useless because of the gap between it and second? If not then raise the gearing in the rear end.

Even if it is the gap, would it help towing?

 

Not the gap, just unecessary.  To launch without slip it pulls a SHITLOAD of timing.  That does not make you fast.

 

Buying a rear and a front gear set may eventually happen out of need, but I can't just replace everything.

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Seth,

Do you actually work at a Toyota dealership?

I really want the rear sway bar from my Tundra, but would like to see if I can get it cheaper than 250 (not installed) at the dealer.

J

He doesn't. but you don't want a Toyota one anyways.  Aftermarket.

Should that affect my warranty? This may be a moot point anyways.

J

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It cannot affect warranty unless is literally causes failure of other parts. That is almost impossible to prove.

Even power adders on engines are unlikely to instantly void warranty. Not that you would win a claim if you put some snails and dialed the power to 11....

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Jeep install adventures continue: 

I bought 2 isolated DC-DC converters, one 3A to charge the phone, one 300mA for the MiniDSP. Alternator whine is gone but I now notice that there is constant noise, which I assume it's from the DAC. Curious if the Moto G has the same noise. 

Second problem is charging. Even with the data pins shorted, maximum charge current with the 10ft extension cord is 400-500mA, same with a short and thin cable. Using a short and thick cable I can charge to 1800mA maximum, which is what I need. 

I KNEW I should've cheaped out and built my own extension cable. Apparently the extension cord wiring is too thin, voltage drops below some threshold and the phone decides to charge with low current, so that it does not fry the wiring. 

More testing to follow, I will measure the resistance of all my cables and see what differences I can find. 

 

It would be easy if I just move the DC-DC converter in the dash and use a short cable but I already fit everything on one PCB. 

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Seth,

Do you actually work at a Toyota dealership?

I really want the rear sway bar from my Tundra, but would like to see if I can get it cheaper than 250 (not installed) at the dealer.

J

 

Nope. Dealerships don't pay well enough.

 

250 for a factory sway is pretty reasonable.

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Seth,

Do you actually work at a Toyota dealership?

I really want the rear sway bar from my Tundra, but would like to see if I can get it cheaper than 250 (not installed) at the dealer.

J

He doesn't. but you don't want a Toyota one anyways.  Aftermarket.

Should that affect my warranty? This may be a moot point anyways.

J

 

 

Not at all.

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Seth,

Do you actually work at a Toyota dealership?

I really want the rear sway bar from my Tundra, but would like to see if I can get it cheaper than 250 (not installed) at the dealer.

J

 

Nope. Dealerships don't pay well enough.

 

250 for a factory sway is pretty reasonable.

 

 

J check this place out for what you need.   http://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/

 

After market sway bars are going to run you more than an OEM. 

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Also if you watch the Tundra forums people will swap their TRD ones out for toytec ones and sell them for a decent price.

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Curious as to why you need one? I've never seen a seat bar fail

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Sean I was thinking about you when I was searching for a disc rear for the Camaro...

Not a bad deal at all on this 2012 6L90e with only 11,000 miles..

http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/5030918710.html

Found one here for $600....but with 135k. Since it needs a full build anyways that may not matter. I am just confused now after my recent discussions with different 6 spd tranny experts.

Part of me wants to bulid the 90, part the 80, and part the 4 speed. sad.png

4L80e?
That is the bombproof solution, just don't really want to go backwards.

Stick with 6 speed!

Seems to me that you turn the truck into a drag car with a 4 speed.

It seems to me you would have more fun in drivability with a 6 speed.

Not so sure that it will help. 1st is useless and it has 2 overdrives. Basically means that it is a 4spd for "driveability"

The reason I want to keep it though is different. It is completely TCM controlled. Figure if I don't learn how to tweak and adjust that now it will only become harder down the road.

Obviously I am torn all over the board. The bummer would be to do the 6 speed and then have it fail in a year. The 4 speed will NOT have that be the problem.

Is 1st gear useless because of the gap between it and second? If not then raise the gearing in the rear end.

Even if it is the gap, would it help towing?

Not the gap, just unecessary. To launch without slip it pulls a SHITLOAD of timing. That does not make you fast.

Buying a rear and a front gear set may eventually happen out of need, but I can't just replace everything.

Go big or go home or just keep driving your mommy mobile under 4K RPM...

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Sean I was thinking about you when I was searching for a disc rear for the Camaro...

Not a bad deal at all on this 2012 6L90e with only 11,000 miles..

http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/5030918710.html

Found one here for $600....but with 135k. Since it needs a full build anyways that may not matter. I am just confused now after my recent discussions with different 6 spd tranny experts.

Part of me wants to bulid the 90, part the 80, and part the 4 speed. sad.png

4L80e?
That is the bombproof solution, just don't really want to go backwards.

Stick with 6 speed!

Seems to me that you turn the truck into a drag car with a 4 speed.

It seems to me you would have more fun in drivability with a 6 speed.

Not so sure that it will help. 1st is useless and it has 2 overdrives. Basically means that it is a 4spd for "driveability"

The reason I want to keep it though is different. It is completely TCM controlled. Figure if I don't learn how to tweak and adjust that now it will only become harder down the road.

Obviously I am torn all over the board. The bummer would be to do the 6 speed and then have it fail in a year. The 4 speed will NOT have that be the problem.

Is 1st gear useless because of the gap between it and second? If not then raise the gearing in the rear end.

Even if it is the gap, would it help towing?

Not the gap, just unecessary. To launch without slip it pulls a SHITLOAD of timing. That does not make you fast.

Buying a rear and a front gear set may eventually happen out of need, but I can't just replace everything.

Go big or go home or just keep driving your mommy mobile under 4K RPM...

 

I also can't put $4k into a transmission every year.

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Sean I was thinking about you when I was searching for a disc rear for the Camaro...

Not a bad deal at all on this 2012 6L90e with only 11,000 miles..

http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/5030918710.html

Found one here for $600....but with 135k. Since it needs a full build anyways that may not matter. I am just confused now after my recent discussions with different 6 spd tranny experts.

Part of me wants to bulid the 90, part the 80, and part the 4 speed. sad.png

4L80e?
That is the bombproof solution, just don't really want to go backwards.

Stick with 6 speed!

Seems to me that you turn the truck into a drag car with a 4 speed.

It seems to me you would have more fun in drivability with a 6 speed.

Not so sure that it will help. 1st is useless and it has 2 overdrives. Basically means that it is a 4spd for "driveability"

The reason I want to keep it though is different. It is completely TCM controlled. Figure if I don't learn how to tweak and adjust that now it will only become harder down the road.

Obviously I am torn all over the board. The bummer would be to do the 6 speed and then have it fail in a year. The 4 speed will NOT have that be the problem.

Is 1st gear useless because of the gap between it and second? If not then raise the gearing in the rear end.

Even if it is the gap, would it help towing?

Not the gap, just unecessary. To launch without slip it pulls a SHITLOAD of timing. That does not make you fast.

Buying a rear and a front gear set may eventually happen out of need, but I can't just replace everything.

Go big or go home or just keep driving your mommy mobile under 4K RPM...

 

I also can't put $4k into a transmission every year.

 

I also stumbled across a 4L80e I think it only had 50-60k it was only $275.00 was going to send the link when I sent the other but i could not pull the listing back up..Also these are in north TN around the Nashville area so I am sure freight would be a good chunk added to that.

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